Suzuki DT2.2 Outboard - no water

Halo

Halo

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Dear All
I have one of these little outboards and there is no coolong water coming out. I assume the impeller has failed. A previous poster sought a manual download with no success. Before I get stuck in can anyone who has done the job please let me know
- where is the impeller
- how do I get at it
- Are there any known pitfalls
Many thanks
Martin
 
I have one of these and very little water comes out of the tell tales - just a light spray usually out of one hole only. I wanted to check the impeller a few months ago. To do this I removed the propeller then the two bolts underneath. The cover then came off and the impellor was easily removed from the shaft. I couldn't find anything wrong with it!

I might be wrong but I think the tell tales are just that. Most of the cooling water passes out with the exhaust. The tell tales just show that water is passing through the system. Can anybody confirm or otherwise?
 
I had the same problem with a new 2HP Yamaha after first use in salt water. The small tell-tale hole had become blocked with dried salt deposits. Took it back to the supplier who poked hole with a fine wire and the problem was solved. Worth checking first.

FWIW the supplier stated that the engine should always be run in fresh water shortly after using it in salt water to prevent this happening. Not always easy!!
 
davewarburton said:
. . . FWIW the supplier stated that the engine should always be run in fresh water shortly after using it in salt water to prevent this happening. Not always easy!!
Click to expand...

Might be possible with such a small O/B to just run it in the cockpit with the prop in a bucket of 'fresh', from the pontoon supply tap or some such? ;)
 
If you finish the running of the motor in a fresh water flushing tank the build up of salt in the waterways is reduced. I clear the telltale holes with a probe each time used and as said, often the volume of sprayed water here is small.
When I first bought my motor from a friend it hadn't run for a year or so, and no water came out at all, I detached the leg from the cylinder block/casing without damaging the joint gasket here, and using a dentist's probe was able to clear all the visible waterways, then carefully replaced and re-bolted the leg. I started up the engine and got water through the tell-tales straightaway, and have never needed to unblock since.

ianat182
 
Should be easy enough . The impeller is behind the prop.

fig006-dt2-8697.jpg
 
I've got one of these and inspected my impellor for the first time. Easy, the two bolts behind the prop. It was in lovely condition. Motor new 2003. As others say there isnt much cooling spray coming out but some just to get your hand wet if you hold it there a few seconds. And I always flush in fresh water after use
 
Mine had blocked watrerways around cylinder and head. It seized but freed when cool, so I took head off scraped out the waterways with a copper wire reassembled didn't have a gasket so used old one planning to sort it all later.

Started first time as normal and has run serveral years since with no attention. Brilliant little engine very simple well built.
 
FairweatherDave said:
I've got one of these and inspected my impellor for the first time. Easy, the two bolts behind the prop. It was in lovely condition. Motor new 2003. As others say there isnt much cooling spray coming out but some just to get your hand wet if you hold it there a few seconds. And I always flush in fresh water after use
Click to expand...

My 2009 Suzuki sprays out a lot of water from the "tell tale". Best to check with dealers as to the quantity of water which should come from your tell tales as I believe Suzuki had to make a design change due to the early units over heating.

jc
 
Halo said:
Dear All
I have one of these little outboards and there is no coolong water coming out. I assume the impeller has failed. A previous poster sought a manual download with no success. Before I get stuck in can anyone who has done the job please let me know
- where is the impeller
- how do I get at it
- Are there any known pitfalls
Many thanks
Martin
Click to expand...
The power head comes off if you undo 4 bolts, you can then see the salt water channels, they get blocked up with salt.
Stu
 
Jcorstorphine said:
My 2009 Suzuki sprays out a lot of water from the "tell tale". Best to check with dealers as to the quantity of water which should come from your tell tales as I believe Suzuki had to make a design change due to the early units over heating.

jc
Click to expand...
Yours will be the 4 stroke? The early ones like mine only had two holes in the leg which the exhaust and water was blown past. A little bit of splutter is all you see from the two holes. The later one like yours has a dedicated piddle hole which is in the cooling circuit so that the telltale is quite noticeable.
Stu
 
Taking it apart

Hi Folks,
I have undone the gearbox (1 bolt, 1 nut) and the power head (6 bolts) but the drive rod and/or the water pipe piece is sticking it all together. Is there something I'm missing? Some kind soul put a parts explosion dia above - can you post a picture of the leg assembly and how it comes apart?
There is a little "flap" on the leading edge of the leg, just below the gearbox/leg joint that flips off with a screwdriver is there something under the little panel this exposes? I can't get that off but wonder if there is a joint in the drive here held with a screw?
Any ideas on getting this apart?
Incidentally, how did you all get the bolt out from the gearbox / leg joint that would be above the prop? It was flush with the plate and none of my sockets would get around it? (I resorted to dremeling a groove and using an impact driver, but I am sure this isnt the recommended solution!!
Help gratefully received!

Peter
 
Genoa said:
Hi Folks,
I have undone the gearbox (1 bolt, 1 nut) and the power head (6 bolts) but the drive rod and/or the water pipe piece is sticking it all together. Is there something I'm missing? Some kind soul put a parts explosion dia above - can you post a picture of the leg assembly and how it comes apart?
There is a little "flap" on the leading edge of the leg, just below the gearbox/leg joint that flips off with a screwdriver is there something under the little panel this exposes? I can't get that off but wonder if there is a joint in the drive here held with a screw?
Any ideas on getting this apart?
Incidentally, how did you all get the bolt out from the gearbox / leg joint that would be above the prop? It was flush with the plate and none of my sockets would get around it? (I resorted to dremeling a groove and using an impact driver, but I am sure this isnt the recommended solution!!
Help gratefully received!

Peter
Click to expand...

I assume you are also talking about a DT2/2.2

Previous diagram was just to show the location of the water pump impeller in order to replace it

What are you attempting to do?

All the parts lists and diagrams can be found for different years from http://store.brownspoint.com/dt2.asp
 
A novice approach

THanks VicS,
So for those like me that like to have a go, but sometimes don't really know what they are doing :
I was trying to get water around the cooling system. THe impellor is fine, so I was wondering what next ?
I tried taking the power head off (6 bolts around the lower edge, but couldn't simply slide the head off the drive, so I thought there might be something I needed to do lower in the leg.
I unbolted the gearbox from the leg. 1 nut behind a little flap on the front edge, and a bolt that was flush above the prop ( I have no idea how you are supposed to undo this, or how it was done up, there is not enough room to get a socket around it and becasue it is flush you can get any wrench/spanner on either. I ended up cutting a x slot with the dremel.
Anyway, I fond that a good pull on the gearbox, when it was unbolted was all I needed, the drive shaft slides out of the powerhead BUT it is sticky so don't expect it to come out smoothly!
The problem :
THe tube from the impellor that goes up the leg to the power head was completely gunged up, salt, muck etc. Using 30amp copper wire I eventually unblocked this, reassembled and refilled gearbox oil. Ran for 20 minutes good as new.
So, even a novice can service this little beaut!
 
Glad you have sorted it.

Probably too late but a smear of grease on the crankshaft/driveshaft splines helps to keep water and rust away so that its easy to dismantle next time.
No too much and not enough to make it impossible to fully engage the two.

Cant help with the bolt ( or is it a nut on a stud?) between the gearcase and leg.
3/8" square drive sockets are a lot lighter than 1/2" drive ones and will sometimes get in where the 1/2" ones wont. Other than that maybe a box or tube spanner is the answer.
 
Genoa said:
There is a little "flap" on the leading edge of the leg, just below the gearbox/leg joint that flips off with a screwdriver is there something under the little panel this exposes? I can't get that off but wonder if there is a joint in the drive here held with a screw?
Click to expand...

Yes - not a joint in the drive but in the leg itself. There's a nut under the little flap that you need to undo. The drive shaft just pulls out without any fastenings.

Genoa said:
Incidentally, how did you all get the bolt out from the gearbox / leg joint that would be above the prop? It was flush with the plate and none of my sockets would get around it?
Click to expand...

The 10mm socket in my "engine" socket set (used for the car and the boat engine) wouldn't fit, as you say. However, I also have a baby socket set (biggest socket is 13mm) for small machinery etc, and the 10mm out of that fitted nicely into the gap around the bolt. So you just need a smaller socket.

Pete
 
Of course if you have access to a small lathe you can always turn the outside of the sockets down a bit to suit.
 
PetiteFleur said:
Or grind them down on a grinder!
Click to expand...

Me too, I always keep a stash of cheap spanners/sockets that can be ground or cut and welded for the awkward customers.
Ever tried a Renault R4/5 starter motor? Still got that cut & welded ring in the kit. Plus a bunch for the De Havilland Gypsy motors I used to work on.
 
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