Suzuki DF2.5

A

Ammonite

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Starts and idles perfectly but seems down on power (second season from new with circa 30 hours use) and the revs now max out about half rather than full throttle. Prop spins freely and engine and gearbox oil fresh as is the fuel. Any thoughts as to what order to proceed if replacing the plug doesnt sort it? Thanks
 
Check that throttle valve opens fully

Clean carb esp main jet and nozzle

If it's within your skills range check/adjust valve clearances ( tappets)
 
It sounds like dirt in the carb. Did you install an inline filter when you bought the outboard? They only cost a couple of quid but without it's only a matter of time.

Draining down the carb using the easily accessed screw if the motor is left unused also helps.

Richard
 
Good engines, but their carbs give trouble at the slightest thing. Probably a combination of extremely narrow jets and E fuels. Get the carb cleaned (use ultrasound if possible) . Then be religious about draining the carb between uses.
 
I believe mbroom is right - the carbs on these things are notorious for getting blocked - but usually the symptoms are poor starting and idling so may not be Chaktoura's issue. But, if it is . . . . .
Sometimes, even ultrasound cleaning won't unblock the carb and a new one is required (I'm on my third - I killed the first one with low-grade petrol and the second by leaving it in a car for a few days, in direct sunshine. Apparently there is an in-line filter already in the fuel system, but it is difficult to get at and clean as it's built into the tank moulding in some way (at least, that's what I've been told) - cleaning properly requires removal of the tank.
 
If its the same as my 10 year old model then there is an inline filter that's factory fitted, small conical one just before the fuel on/off lever. Easy to get at and clean, but tiny so take a bit of care removing it. If the tank has any muck in it then that is also easy to remove to swill out, but as the general consensus indicates carb cleaning is probably the way to go, although it's normally the idle that's the problem.
 
I would also check that the fuel cap breather is not blocked. The little washer which seals the tiny hole in the cap when the breather screw is twisted tight breaks up and bits occlude the hole. The hole has quite sharp edges so worthwhile to carefully round those off when checking that hole so that the new washer is less likely to be destroyed by tightening down.
 
Pete735 said:
If its the same as my 10 year old model then there is an inline filter that's factory fitted, small conical one just before the fuel on/off lever. Easy to get at and clean, but tiny so take a bit of care removing it. If the tank has any muck in it then that is also easy to remove to swill out, but as the general consensus indicates carb cleaning is probably the way to go, although it's normally the idle that's the problem.
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There is, indeed, a small inline filter but it's very coarse and doesn't filter out the small bits of crud.

Richard
 
On our DF2.5 it's always the carb. The nozzles are tiny and prone to blocking. Bit fewer problems since I started using fuel stabilizer, but I still need to strip it yet again and poke around the nozzles because now it's lost the top of the throttle range. Starting to think the smelly 2-stroke guys are right :ROFLMAO:
 
Chaktoura said:
Starts and idles perfectly but seems down on power (second season from new with circa 30 hours use) and the revs now max out about half rather than full throttle. Prop spins freely and engine and gearbox oil fresh as is the fuel. Any thoughts as to what order to proceed if replacing the plug doesnt sort it? Thanks
Click to expand...
When was it last serviced?
 
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