Suzuki DF2.5 gearbox bearing problem.

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Jcorstorphine

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My 8 year old 2.5 Suzuki 4 st has run a bearing in the gearbox due to water ingress.
Checked the drawings on the Browns website and looks straightforward but are there any issues with shims or special tools like a "left hand widget remover"
Thanks
 
Jcorstorphine said:
My 8 year old 2.5 Suzuki 4 st has run a bearing in the gearbox due to water ingress.
Checked the drawings on the Browns website and looks straightforward but are there any issues with shims or special tools like a "left hand widget remover"
Thanks
Click to expand...

You do not say which bearing but they are made to very close tolerances so Id not expect any reshimming to be necessary.

Note the position of existing shims though ( One associated with the pinion and another behind the forward gear wheel)

There is a manual at http://boatinfo.no/lib/suzuki/manuals/suzuki_1996-2007.html#/0 although it only covers model s upto 2007. Yours may not be much or any different so well worth looking at that manual
 
Thanks for replies. Not good news, gearbox is a mess. Both front and rear bearings knackered, drive shaft scored at bush area, bronze drive shaft bush worn,

Even worse news is that I ordered all the spares before I got round to removing the last item which was the drive shaft and Suzuki have a punitive returns policy
which is so bad that it is just not worth the effort.

Cost of new shaft is about $150 in the US. So it could be close to £200 here in UK with VAT being added Biggest problem is the bronze bush in the gearbox is not available (basically it is
not possible to gain access to remove the existing one as it is at the bottom of a long bore in the aluminium casting)

All of this due to small lipseal on the drive shaft. Only hope is that the dealer may have some bottom legs he can salvage otherwise there is perfectly good top power unit going to be on EBay
which will be a shame as the outboard was a retirement present from my old company.

PS It had shims.
 
Jcorstorphine said:
Thanks for replies. Not good news, gearbox is a mess. Both front and rear bearings knackered, drive shaft scored at bush area, bronze drive shaft bush worn,

Even worse news is that I ordered all the spares before I got round to removing the last item which was the drive shaft and Suzuki have a punitive returns policy
which is so bad that it is just not worth the effort.

Cost of new shaft is about $150 in the US. So it could be close to £200 here in UK with VAT being added Biggest problem is the bronze bush in the gearbox is not available (basically it is
not possible to gain access to remove the existing one as it is at the bottom of a long bore in the aluminium casting)

All of this due to small lipseal on the drive shaft. Only hope is that the dealer may have some bottom legs he can salvage otherwise there is perfectly good top power unit going to be on EBay
which will be a shame as the outboard was a retirement present from my old company.

PS It had shims.
Click to expand...

Your gonna have problems getting a good second hand gearbox. Gearboxes are the achilles heel for this model. If you do get offered a used gearbox make sure you have a good look at the clutch dog , any signs of wear leave well alone
 
steve66 said:
Your gonna have problems getting a good second hand gearbox. Gearboxes are the achilles heel for this model. If you do get offered a used gearbox make sure you have a good look at the clutch dog , any signs of wear leave well alone
Click to expand...

Agree with you on above. My two gears and the dog clutch are pretty good. I have always tried to keep the RPM as low as possible so they seem to have survived. Hope is that the dealer can find me an good drive shaft and I am looking at pulling the bronze bearing and turning a new one.
 
penberth3 said:
There is such a thing as a blind hole bush extractor, various sizes, could be borrowed or hired?
Click to expand...

Thanks for post. When I sat down with a wee sherry, I realised that I can use a simple extractor with a removable landing which can be screwed onto the extractor from the open end of the gearbox housing. Things are looking up but that just might be the sherry.
 
Jcorstorphine said:
My 8 year old 2.5 Suzuki 4 st has run a bearing in the gearbox due to water ingress.
Checked the drawings on the Browns website and looks straightforward but are there any issues with shims or special tools like a "left hand widget remover"
Thanks
Click to expand...

Just to say that I have the same outboard with a similar problem - although in my case it's just the 'idle' bearing. I'm just trying to work out what to do about it. I may be interested in buying any surplus spares you end up with.
 
Carduelis said:
Just to say that I have the same outboard with a similar problem - although in my case it's just the 'idle' bearing. I'm just trying to work out what to do about it. I may be interested in buying any surplus spares you end up with.
Click to expand...

Hi, not sure which bearing you are referring to. There is the larger bearing at the back of the housing which is a 35 x 17 x 8 which holds the main gear. There is a second smaller bearing at the front housing nearest to the prop which is a 26 x 10 x 8. Both bearings are 6000 series open Stainless standard bearings. I did not know that they were standard bearings which I could have got from Simply Bearings but it has turned out well in terms of what was available.

My main problem was that the drive shaft and corresponding bronze bush were very badly scored and worn which is not good news as you cannot buy the bronze bush and have to buy a complete bottom casing and a new drive shaft however I obtained a used complete bottom casting and drive shaft c/w the large bearing and as it happens, the large bearing was out of stock. So at the moment it looks good to go as I have all the bits with the axception of a small circlip.

So looks as if I may use all the spares I have purchased, if you want any info regarding what I have found, let me know.

Regards
 
In my case it is the bronze bush which has seized into the 'crownwheel' at the back of the gearbox. This has the effect of locking the motor permenantly into gear. It's uneconomic to buy a new shaft and gear so I'm now wondering if I can buy off the shelf bronze bushes which will fit.
There are a few suppliers online but I haven't checked out these particular sizes yet.
 
Hi, DF2.5 has just done the same and is locked into gear and won't go into neutral :confused:, not sure what to do to fix it? is this likely to be a costly repair at the marine shop :( , keep me posted on the bronze bushes or how you got on with any repair.

the link posted for the manual didn't work, anybody else have a copy they can email to me at neilnitro@aol.com
 
neilnitro said:
Hi, DF2.5 has just done the same and is locked into gear and won't go into neutral :confused:, not sure what to do to fix it? is this likely to be a costly repair at the marine shop :( , keep me posted on the bronze bushes or how you got on with any repair.

the link posted for the manual didn't work, anybody else have a copy they can email to me at neilnitro@aol.com
Click to expand...

I will give an update as to bearings etc when I get home tonight.
 
Jcorstorphine said:
I will give an update as to bearings etc when I get home tonight.
Click to expand...

Sorry about delay in coming back to you., I hate using phone to respond to msgs.

Can I suggest you look at this web page which gives exploded views of the engine and chose your year of manufacture

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/suzuki/df2_5.asp

This is the 2009 page which I refer to

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/suzuki/df2_5/2009.asp

If you look at the drive shaft drawing and the gear case drawing it shows the following.

The drive shaft comes down from the engine through a bronze bearing in the aluminium housing. This bearing is not available as a spare item. Above this bearing is a double back to back lip seal.
At the end of the drive shaft, the small gear is held in place by a circlip The small gear engages with the large gear which is located by a 35 x 17 x 8 stainless 6000 series bearing. The bearing is an interference fit in the end of the casting. The propeller shaft has an internal small rod approx 20 mm x 4 mm which actuates the dog clutch. The dog clutch default is to be engaged to the large gear and it is only when you select Neutral does the small rod get pushed by the end of the actuator rod thus disengaging the dog from the main gear. Going further down the propshaft there is a second 6000 stainless bearing which is 26 x 10 x 8. (corrected) My problem is on my 2009 engine the only bronze bearing is the one on the main drive shaft so I am not sure which bearing you are talking about.

To access the propshaft area, all you need to do is drain the oil from the gearbox and undo the two M6 machine screws and prise off the flange using the two indentation near the bolt holes. There is an approx 50 mm O ring which makes the seal which if soft enough can be reused with a bit of grease but you should use a new one to ensure.

I have just tried link to the Bavaria web site and as you say it does not work but when it was, it would not open on an iPad. I have tried to send you a copy but at 26 mbs it is too big for our email server.

A few other comments about these engines. The drive shafts are not all the same dimensions. I had to obtains a secondhand Gear casing as the bronze bearing was shot, I needed second hand drive shaft as mine was very badly grooved. When i came to fit it all together, the small gear had to be ground back about 1.5 mm to allow the circlip to fit into the groove in the shaft. The new (secondhand) shaft was longer than the original however it seems that the new gear casing was also slightly longer which could have had an impact on the small rod which drives the water pump is located but with a bit of messing about with shims I was able to get it all together.

PS The 6000 Stainless open series bearings are approx a third of the cost if you go to a bearing suppliers, The prop and drive shaft shaft seals could be obtained from bearing suppliers but not worth the agro as you will need to order gaskets.
 
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Carduelis said:
In my case it is the bronze bush which has seized into the 'crownwheel' at the back of the gearbox. This has the effect of locking the motor permenantly into gear. It's uneconomic to buy a new shaft and gear so I'm now wondering if I can buy off the shelf bronze bushes which will fit.
There are a few suppliers online but I haven't checked out these particular sizes yet.
Click to expand...

Might be worth chatting to your local outboard dealer as our guys had a stock of salvaged bit and pieces off of dead 2.5s. Just be advised that there are shims and they are needed as dimensional tolerances seem to be a bit iffy. The SS Ball Bearings are not an issue it is the manufactured parts which can vary by millimeters. Best is if you can get a complete bottom leg and change the seals and main bearings.
 
Thanks for all the help, starting to get a clearer picture, guess i'm going to hope its not the bronze bearing and keep my fingers crossed :)
 
I stripped mine on a DT 2 ( maybe similar ) The bearings were just a press fit on the shaft - but had to be in exactly the right place for the impellor locating pin hole to line up.

Damged mine bashing off the original siezed prop.
 
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