Suzuki DF15 4s outboard - ECU testing & repair?

Skylark

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Does anyone know of a company offering to test and repair the ECU on a 15bhp, 4-stroke Suzuki outboard motor?

A bit of a calamity. A friend has a small canal cruiser. He's recently replaced the two 12v batteries. Two almost identical batteries, different makes, but have +ve and -ve posts reversed (and didn't notice until it was too late). The 1-2-both switch fried.

Switch now replaced. Domestics work ok. There is 12v going to the engine but the remote key/starter/gear/throttle lever appears dead. Suspecting (but don't really know) the ECU?

Any ideas, please? With grateful thanks.
 
Many thanks @andsarkit and @VicS very much appreciated.

Not sure of the year of manufacture but the cowl shows EPA 2006 Compliant.

It does have a pull cord but we haven’t tried it (including testing for a spark) but will do.

Yes, there was a lot of smoke and smell as the 1-2-Both switch and one of the +ve patch leads fried ?

There is no evidence of smell and burnt wiring around the engine or within the start remote control mechanism.

I can’t see any fuses within the engine (?) . 12v goes via heavy cables to what looks like a starter solenoid (?). Smaller cables from this then feed the ecu.

The link to the manual is very helpful, thanks. I’ll take a look at it tomorrow (but I’m a retired mech eng, convinced throughout my career that electrikery is the work of the devil).

Appreciate any other pointers.
 
I can’t see any fuses within the engine (?) . 12v goes via heavy cables to what looks like a starter solenoid (?). Smaller cables from this then feed the ecu.


Appreciate any other pointers.

Keep looking for a fuse Location depends on the year model but somewhere in the wiring for the remote if it is an older model ( owners manual ought to show the location)
 
I would use the pull start to start it. if it runs...its not the ecu. Other than that, the lanyard safety switch, in gear interlock (if fitted) or an in line fuse would be suspect.
 
Thanks, Steve, will do.

The WSM (thanks again, @VicS) looks helpful as it shows a 20A fuse.

My pal has asked an electrician friend to visit the boat next week (I’m away so can’t join them) and, hopefully, his diagnostic knowledge is better than mine.

I have the fried 1-2-Both switch and happy to post a picture of the copper contacts, if it’s of any interest.

Quite a salutary lesson. An almost identical looking replacement battery but with opposite polarity.
 
Thanks, Steve, will do.

The WSM (thanks again, @VicS) looks helpful as it shows a 20A fuse.

My pal has asked an electrician friend to visit the boat next week (I’m away so can’t join them) and, hopefully, his diagnostic knowledge is better than mine.

I have the fried 1-2-Both switch and happy to post a picture of the copper contacts, if it’s of any interest.

Quite a salutary lesson. An almost identical looking replacement battery but with opposite polarity.

One of the things you have to be aware of when buying batteries ........... they can be left or right handed ............... and to check when fitting. The battery suppliers either state which they are or show it diagrammatically, or both

An example taken at random from Battery Megastore's website

Terminal TypeA, Standard Automotive
Terminal LayoutRight Hand Positive

1645896401169.png
 
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