Suzuki 2.5 hp

Billows

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Just bought a new Suzuki 2.5 hp 4 stroke.It is very light and am very satisfied with it so far.However sometimes when starting it snatches the pull cord out of my hand,What is happening?Is this normal on 4 strokes.It never happened with my two strokes.Is there a technique to stop this happening?
 
Mine does the same

Just bought a new Suzuki 2.5 hp 4 stroke.It is very light and am very satisfied with it so far.However sometimes when starting it snatches the pull cord out of my hand,What is happening?Is this normal on 4 strokes.It never happened with my two strokes.Is there a technique to stop this happening?

Mine does the same, however, it was ok when it was new and for the first year. The snatching started after the first service. I understand part of the service was to check/adjust the air/fuel mixture and my feeling is that the mixture is on the weak side.
 
To start a small 4 stroke, pull the cord fairly slowly until resistance is felt, release the cord and then pull to start. Yes the suzuki 2.5 does tend to snatch if you don't get the start right!
 
Just bought a new Suzuki 2.5 hp 4 stroke.It is very light and am very satisfied with it so far.However sometimes when starting it snatches the pull cord out of my hand,What is happening?Is this normal on 4 strokes.It never happened with my two strokes.Is there a technique to stop this happening?

I beleive there is a slightly different technique for staring a four stroke, I beleive the trick is to gently turn the engine, using the pull cord, until you feel the compression as it reaches TDC on the compression stroke.
Then allow the cord to recoil before giving it a good steady pull.

( beaten to it ... but at least we agree :D )

No information on starting technique in the owners manual ??

(There appears to be a mixture adjustment screw on the float chamber. #13 in this diagram Ease it out 1/8 turn if you like to see if it makes any difference but be sure you can put it back to the original setting if necessary)
 
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I was not allowing the cord to rewind after resistance felt.Maybe that is the problem.
The (13) is indicated in the manual as a drain plug with instructions to use it to empty the bowl after use which is curious.There does not seem to be a pilot air screw, just an idle rpm adjuster (22).
 
I was not allowing the cord to rewind after resistance felt.Maybe that is the problem.
The (13) is indicated in the manual as a drain plug with instructions to use it to empty the bowl after use which is curious.There does not seem to be a pilot air screw, just an idle rpm adjuster (22).


Very surprised that #13 is a drain plug.
Screws with springs on then are usually adjustment screws. Like the idle speed adjustment screw, #22.


Before you use it as drain check if it is screwed in fully or not. If its an adjustment screw it will be a turn or a bit more short of being fully seated. If its drain plug it will be screwed in fully.

I dont know of a source of Suzuki manuals on line or I would have checked

Is #13 really on the float chamber or is it really on the carb body ??
 
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(There appears to be a mixture adjustment screw on the float chamber. #13 in this diagram Ease it out 1/8 turn if you like to see if it makes any difference but be sure you can put it back to the original setting if necessary)[/QUOTE]

Vic, There is an air adjustment screw on these carbs. It is on the side of the carb. under a blanking plug which you have to drill out. Very, Very carefully to gain access. Not recommended for the faint hearted! The adjustment is not shown on any of the parts lists or operators manual.
 
Mine does the same, however, it was ok when it was new and for the first year. The snatching started after the first service. I understand part of the service was to check/adjust the air/fuel mixture and my feeling is that the mixture is on the weak side.
There is no adjustment of the mixture possible on these engines, our tree hugging friends in california are to blame.
Stu
 
Very surprised that #13 is a drain plug.
Screws with springs on then are usually adjustment screws. Like the idle speed adjustment screw, #22.


Before you use it as drain check if it is screwed in fully or not. If its an adjustment screw it will be a turn or a bit more short of being fully seated. If its drain plug it will be screwed in fully.

I dont know of a source of Suzuki manuals on line or I would have checked

Is #13 really on the float chamber or is it really on the carb body ??
13 is in the float chamber, it is the drain, guess how I know?
Stu
 
Mine has never 'kicked back' as described, however once in a while it is very difficult to pull, almost as if the cylinder had part filled with something uncompressable. My guess is that some oil from the sump has leaked into the bore when the engine was laid on it's side for too long, however I have had this happen once after the engine had been stored upright in my shed.
Other than that it has been a great little reliable engine for a couple of years now. Wish I had got a manual with it though!
 
Mine has never 'kicked back' as described, however once in a while it is very difficult to pull, almost as if the cylinder had part filled with something uncompressable. My guess is that some oil from the sump has leaked into the bore when the engine was laid on it's side for too long, however I have had this happen once after the engine had been stored upright in my shed.
Other than that it has been a great little reliable engine for a couple of years now.
Wish I had got a manual with it though!

But now thanks to Billows , post #7, you have one!
 
Your problem is compression. To stop this some manufacturers add decompressers to the cam Nothing you can do other than slightly decrease the valve clearance. I have found on Honda 2.3hp opening the valve clearances increases compression kick back. Btw leave your carb alone. They are temperamental at the best of times on these little 4 strokes
 
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