Slowtack
Well-Known Member
Squirt of carb cleaner in the air intake every 3-4 weeks. Bobs your elderly male relative.
You could always tie it down with that great big heavy chain of yours Vic.
Surely no-one would ever be able to cut through that .......... :ambivalence:
Richard
What really funny ( ok not so funny ) was there cut mine and moved it and your that wasn't chain they just left .
Have you taken the pipe of the fuel tap to see if it run out ok .Update. It now runs for as long as needed. The only problem is that it must be at beryl is revs, just above tick over. Stumped as to what to do next. It's not theta k breather so must be fuel tap or pipe as the filter is clean.
We tieing up there again to night , but without the chainYes, a very strange decision by that Croatian Skipper.
Having said that, we'd risk tying up there again (perhaps a bit further along the quay!) as the food was very good and very good value.
As we both often say on these forums, Croatia does not have to be expensive if you plan well.
Richard
Sorry for a bit of thread drift, but I have a Suzuki 2.5 and a recurring problem is that the fuel tank cap has a galvanised plate inside it but it rusts really quickly - I am on my second cap and despite cleaning it up, putting epoxy on it etc, it keeps on rusting with bits falling in the tank and inevitable blockages ... Any ideas on an alternative fuel cap because Suzuki do not offer one.
Thanks
Get yourself down to Machine Mart and buy a micro drill bit set for less than a tenner. Drill out the main and pilot jet to one bit size bigger. It is well documented that these Suzuki outboards are jetted lean to pass emissions tests. I've just had the same problem with a DF4. Went one size larger on both jets and transformed it.
I wouldn't recommend setting a carb up on 2 year old fuelSo, I drilled out the jets as recommended, put it all back together, didn't bother changing the two year old petrol and it started first time! Ran it in the dustbin for a while and it seems fine and doesn't stall when you throttle up, even when it is in gear. I am hoping that after four years I have fixed the problem but will only really be sure when it is under load on the back of my tender. Watch this space! (But don't hold your breath)
My cap plate is rusty and so is a clamp nut on the outside of the engine.That's interesting. I'm not on the boat now but I always thought the metal plate in the fuel cap of my DF2.5 was stainless steel as I'm sure it looks shiny. I can't help with an answer I'm afraid but I intend to look at my cap more closely next time.
My cap plate is rusty and so is a clamp nut on the outside of the engine.
I loath my Suzuki 2.5 4-stroke and will never touch the Suzuki brand again.
So do the carb bowl , and all the bolts holding on the power head ,oh and the cable , come to think of it I not sure what don't rust on an Honda . Yes I do the plastic cover .Best not to buy a Honda either then .... they rust even more according to many other threads.
Richard
My first and ladt Suzuki Df2.5 purchased this year to replace 20 year old Merc 2.5. The Suzuki is dreadful, noisy, hard to start, low power, uses loads of fuel. Very dissapointing.
Do not drill the main jet, adjust the slow running screw to adjust mixture at idle and running.Get yourself down to Machine Mart and buy a micro drill bit set for less than a tenner. Drill out the main and pilot jet to one bit size bigger. It is well documented that these Suzuki outboards are jetted lean to pass emissions tests. I've just had the same problem with a DF4. Went one size larger on both jets and transformed it.