Suzuki 2.2DT outboard....the head is off, sheared bolt advice please

Lakesailor said:
Someone always comes along and suggests an over the top way to expensively overcome a simple problem.
If you can't drill a stud out you are probably best not attempting to dismantle an engine. The relative hardness of steel and aluminium are irrelevant. Is that like saying if it were steel in steel you would rely on the the casting's threads to keep the drill on course?
For a little old engine, if the threads do get damaged tap out to the next size up and drill out the hole in the leg flange to accommodate a bigger bolt. There is plenty of meat available.
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Your right of course, 30 years of working professionally on automotive and marine engines has taught me nothing, we should all agree with just YOUR opinion and be silent when someone asks for help, i hadnt realised you were the only one qualified to offer an opinion
 
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ribrage said:
Your right of course, 30 years of working professionally on automotive and marine engines has taught me nothing, we should all agree with just YOUR opinion and be silent when someone asks for help, i hadnt realised you were the only one qualified to offer an opinion
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In defence of Lakesailor, perhaps your phrase, 'thirty years of working professionally...' gives away the problem? Suggesting you get a washer TIG welded onto a stud might be an excellent solution, but its rather OTT for the average DIY enthusiast. Especially perhaps for the OP who reveals his novice and learning credentials in his description of the problem and what he's done. (No criticism of him; he's having a go and how do you learn except by having a go?)

If you work in a garage or workshop where all manner of kit is available which is not available to the average DIYer then its hardly surprising when you get a little flack for describing how you would tackle a problem instead of suggesting ways someone can try to sort it out with simple and readily available resources.

Your suggestion was imaginative and would probably succeed very well, but why are you so surprised you feel criticised for suggesting it to people who would have to pay someone to do the important bit when there are cheaper DIY options available?
 
So here's a question arising from the above....

When attempting to free stuck stuff such as machine screws, nuts, outboard engine pistons, what does the assembled panel consider the best penetrating/freeing gunk - Liquid Wrench, PlusGas, or wot? :confused:
 
FairweatherDave said:
all to no avail, I did what Lakesailor suggested and went in with the hand drill (cautiously, brand new drills etc). Wasted £3 on "easy-out"s and then kept on drilling bigger and bigger. Finally result, got the 35% thathad not been drilled to bits out and I still have a working thread (to my suprise).
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ribrage said:
Your right of course, 30 years of working professionally on automotive and marine engines has taught me nothing, we should all agree with just YOUR opinion and be silent when someone asks for help, i hadnt realised you were the only one qualified to offer an opinion
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But it worked. As I knew it would.

I merely said your suggestion was OTT, which it has been shown to be.
 
As someone who has completely bodged the drilling out of a sheered off bolt from a outboard leg, I know it's not a task to be undertaken lightly, especially in situ with a hand held drill! Later, I discovered this: http://www.quikcenter.com. I bought one on sale, though never needed to use it (yet!), but it would seem to be an answer for inexperienced DIYers.
 
Neil said:
As someone who has completely bodged the drilling out of a sheered off bolt from a outboard leg, I know it's not a task to be undertaken lightly, especially in situ with a hand held drill! Later, I discovered this: http://www.quikcenter.com. I bought one on sale, though never needed to use it (yet!), but it would seem to be an answer for inexperienced DIYers.
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I like those - I'm going to add them to my "things to make" projects, I think I would also make a set of different size centering sections to keep the different drills centred as well; stainless bodies, hardened centering sections, etc, looks like a job for the weekend
 
I think I still have my Whitworth tap & die set from my apprenticeship somewhere, it should be a genuine antique now so if I can find it I could make some

I think the bodies either need making in both a male and female versions for when bolts or studs are broken either above or below the surface or have a changeable lower section that is thread & size specific then you could have just a couple of bodies that would cover lots of sizes and threads and just change the lower section insert to the male or female thread size require, I'll have a tinker and knock up a prototype or two

I've just been cutting some matched 60mm internal and external threaded parts today which are a bit opposite extreme but at least they were delrin so nice easy stuff to thread
 
john_morris_uk said:
In defence of Lakesailor, perhaps your phrase, 'thirty years of working professionally...' gives away the problem? Suggesting you get a washer TIG welded onto a stud might be an excellent solution, but its rather OTT for the average DIY enthusiast. Especially perhaps for the OP who reveals his novice and learning credentials in his description of the problem and what he's done. (No criticism of him; he's having a go and how do you learn except by having a go?)

If you work in a garage or workshop where all manner of kit is available which is not available to the average DIYer then its hardly surprising when you get a little flack for describing how you would tackle a problem instead of suggesting ways someone can try to sort it out with simple and readily available resources.

Your suggestion was imaginative and would probably succeed very well, but why are you so surprised you feel criticised for suggesting it to people who would have to pay someone to do the important bit when there are cheaper DIY options available?
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If you read my post i suggested he handed it to a garage to do five minutes of welding for which he might have been charged a tenner , he probably spent more on drills , if he messed up and the drill slid off enter into the alli which is obviously much softer (although not according to some) he would end up with an elongated off center hole which would need enlarging and then additional costs of buying taps etc

By the time the hole is enlarged , the mating surfaces that are left are greatly reduced and that leaves less for a seal and greater chance of leaks or water ingress.

People can fix things however they want, but there is always more than ONE solution to a problem and to knock anyone elses option because it doesnt agree with yours is highly self opinionated .

Maybe thats why i dont have 12,500 posts ?

Im glad the OP sorted out the problem
 
Lake sailor :

I found your post in response to mine, derogatory and self opinionated , i merely offered a different method of repair that may have saved the op a lot of work and heart ache had he messed it up, my suggestion was neither OTT or expensive.

Enough said
 
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Hello ribrage. What do mean "enough said"?

Of course it was self-opinionated. I'm not going to offer anyone else's opinion.
It seems you have taken personal offence at my general comment.

Someone always comes along and suggests an over the top way to expensively overcome a simple problem.
If you can't drill a stud out you are probably best not attempting to dismantle an engine. The relative hardness of steel and aluminium are irrelevant. Is that like saying if it were steel in steel you would rely on the the casting's threads to keep the drill on course?
For a little old engine, if the threads do get damaged tap out to the next size up and drill out the hole in the leg flange to accommodate a bigger bolt. There is plenty of meat available.
Click to expand...

But as you say, my method was an alternative. And it worked.
 
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