Suzuki 2.2 - no cooling flow

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Seal_surfer

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Can anyone give me benefit of their experience please:
Went to fire up my 8 year old DT 2.2 for first time this year. All OK except no water at tell-tales.
I know scaling up and impellor probs are common on these little engines and have stripped and cleared other outboards with no probs. I can't seem to get the gear case to part from the leg - after removing 2 nuts (I'm assuming pump is there?). What is holding it together?

Are there any other dismantling/reassembly tricks with these?

Shame, as only prob done < 20 hours since new!!
 
I have had very similar problems just last week. If I were you, I would try some of the advice I was given.... I thought I would have to strip it down, but managed not to have to. I blew compressed air down the water outlet, and then used a hose pipe with a good pressure to feed up the water inlet. Luckily for me this cleared it all and is running perfect now. Maybe worth a try before stripping it all down.
 
My Suzuki 2.2 never did squirt much out of the telltales - even when new. I used to get more out at low engine speeds than high. A Suzuki mechanic told me this was normal.

I replaced my impeller last year. It's behind the prop and in the same orientation as the prop - very easy to get to. Just take the prop off and then take off the cover immediately behind it. I don't remember having any problem getting the cover off - I think it just pulled off (once the bolts were out) - there might have been a gasket behind it but nothing special.
 
"I'm assuming pump is there"

Pump???

The impeller is on the shaft in front of the prop!
Remove prop, remove shear pin, undo 2 vertically aligned nuts, remove crud, remove impeller cover.

"I can't seem to get the gear case to part from the leg "
It is probably just being held by crud, but I don't think you will gain much by separating it, just expose the drive shaft.
 
I have a Mercury 2.5. It has suffered from the same symptoms since I bought it new. The problem is almost certainly salt in the cooling jacket. Even if you rinse out the engine in fresh water each time the salt still accumulates.
Every winter I now take the cylinder head off and clean out the cooling jacket. I'm sure that is why the engine is still going well after 15 yrs. Its a simple job and if you use Loctite gasket sealant when reassembling you won't need to use a new gasket.
 
You need to be careful forcing water in either end. If you go so fast that it will not drain at the same rate, and could fill the exhaust pipe (leg) and then the cylinder and crank-case.

I prefer de-scaling with acid rather than taking stuff to bits.
 
I used air down from the top, and only water up the inlet. As the impeller is there, it prevents the water from going any further as it isn't turning unless the motor is turning, so only goes up a few inches and runs back down again when you remove the hose.... I only held the hose in place for 3-4 secs and then removed, and repeated several times. Did a lovely job on mine...
 
Thanks for pointing where impellor is - everything fine there though. I think Onenyala made a very good point in recommending strip-out of cylinder head periodically. I first unmated leg from head (6 bolts and a bit of wiggling to seperate drive shaft tube) and found a "salt" blockage at a narrow point here. scraped clean and remated, started up - still no flow!

So, off with the head (careful dismantling saved the gasket) and showed a completely choked water jacket around the cylinder. Scraped clean, reassembled with smear of gasket sealant. Now spits it out like the best of yobs!

Really was very simple after all, and will be easier next time now I've lubricated all bolts/drive shaft with marine grease

Thanks to all.
 
This post is very old but has helped me crack my problem. The blockage was around the cooling jacket and removing the four bolts around the spark plug, ie taking the head off the cylinder as well as the "head" off the outboard leg

https://picasaweb.google.com/DWMacAdam/BlockedCoolingJacket NOTE. CLICK ON FULL SCREEN TO GET THE PICTURES PROPERLY

The photos show why I had exactly the same problem. Half a beach in there..........
Hopefully the picasa pik link will work, please complain if it does not!
 
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Its been said before. Remove prop stand in buck of water aid 1 ltr of RYHDLME and run engine for a while, lwft mine run foe 2Hrs at idle withe intermittent bursts of power. Job done, no telltail water to start within 1/2 hour full flow. cylinder head very hot to start cooling to normalafter 1 hour.
 
Quick fix is to stick a piece of garden strimmer wire up through the outlet hole/nozzle. Its soft enough not to damage anything and bend around curves but hard enough to unblock any crud (normally dried salt from the salt water). Push it in and out a few times, both with engine off and then engine running.

1 x big issue is the actual nozzle at the end - as it fits inside the rubber outlet hose it is therefore slightly smaller in diameter...so clogs up at this point.
 
Just to add a bit to why I took off the head. I have religeously flushed this outboard after every use. I know poking about might help some outboards and blockages but through the pair of holes on my Suzuki this would have got nowhere, they just lead to a large void miles from the tight bits where the blockage was. I have not heard of ryhdlme and can see that approach would work however I would never have had the nerve to let my engine run for that length of time without some flow and I would be amazed if it could shifted the volume of cr*p I got out. If you study the third photo the whole cylinder jacket was absolutely solid, I was virtually chiselling it out for 15 minutes. I think for the price of a head gasket and the visual proof I am happy and so that is why I posted the piks for those people who have the same engine. My engine used to emit a very fine spray, barely getting my hand damp. This stopped altogether. I too hope my engine will be" spitting like the best of yobs" when I get it back together.
 
FairweatherDave said:
Just to add a bit to why I took off the head. I have religeously flushed this outboard after every use. I know poking about might help some outboards and blockages but through the pair of holes on my Suzuki this would have got nowhere, they just lead to a large void miles from the tight bits where the blockage was. I have not heard of ryhdlme and can see that approach would work however I would never have had the nerve to let my engine run for that length of time without some flow and I would be amazed if it could shifted the volume of cr*p I got out. If you study the third photo the whole cylinder jacket was absolutely solid, I was virtually chiselling it out for 15 minutes. I think for the price of a head gasket and the visual proof I am happy and so that is why I posted the piks for those people who have the same engine. My engine used to emit a very fine spray, barely getting my hand damp. This stopped altogether. I too hope my engine will be" spitting like the best of yobs" when I get it back together.
Click to expand...

I could have written that post as I had exactly the same experience. Despite very light use and religous flushing in fresh water after every use, my DT2.2 became completely blocked. I was only on my second gallon of fuel. I hadn't even got as far as running it in before it started overheating. I never had any trouble with my Seagull.
 
"Spitting like the best of yobs". Sourced a torque wrench (finally, its very puny torque compared to my mates motorbike torque range) and Happy Days. It has always been a good engine, so fingers crossed, long may it continue with good maintenance...... Thanks for everyone's advice on the various threads I have posted. VicS link is worth putting here again, the manual takes some perseverance to use but it is all there.

http://boatinfo.no/lib/suzuki/manuals/suzuki_1988-2003.html#/0
 
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