Suzuki 2.2 hp outboard

[DoubleEnder]

I have a small 2 stroke outboard which is light, powerful enough for the tender and I'd prefer not to get a bigger one. However, it is extremely tempramental - or I shoud say has become so. Last year was fine.

Generally, if it's cold, or if I have managed to run it dry on previous use, it starts literally first pull. But if for example I motor out to the mooring, leave it a couple of hours then try to restart it...........nothing. Good rowing practice, but that's not the point.

I have checked fuel filter and line. If I pull the plug it seems very oily to me, and often if I clean the plug it improves the situation. The plug is new.

So, could it be a carb adjustment is needed? I don't have the manual unfortunately. I am running on 50:1 mix

All ideas gratefully received.
Thank you

Graham

 

[greylag]

I have just bought one 2nd hand and was told 100:1.

 

[Dipper]

On my Suzuki 2.2 I only need the choke setting for a few seconds before switching to normal running even when starting from cold. Have you tried starting the warm(ish) engine with no choke? When starting mine I always set the throttle to ⅓ max (at the mark on the panel).

Edit: As Greylag says, the normal running mix is 100:1 but I am using 50:1 like you.

 

[Lakesailor]

Vic S has the dates and stuff, but the 100:1 ratio was found to be too parsimonious and later the recommendation was reverted to 50:1. The bearings can suffer.
The commercial units were always 50:1.
Perhaps you have the wrong plug fitted. Check the maker's recommendation. Some plugs have a recessed electrode which can oil up. I found the wrong one fitted to my Tohatsu and replaced it with the correct one, which turned out to have an elongated electrode, which burns hotter and clears deposits.
This is the reach.
Hot or cool spark plugs can effect fouling but may have the same reach. It's the insulator design that changes.
see the video

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[Blue Fox]

My experience is that, if I use 50:1, I get the same symptoms with my Suzuki 2.2: oily plug; difficult starting etc.. With 100:1 it runs fine.

 

[MonniotC]

I compromise and run mine on approx 70:1. It likes to have a clean plug. I always carry a new spare. Have you cleaned out the float chamber and jets?

 

[VicS]

Not sure about the exact year as you do not give any model identification details or serial number.

Assuming therefore it is a 1997 as that appears to be the only year relating to a 2.2 as opposed to a 2hp

Fuel mix. I would not expect any problems from a 50:1 fuel mix. As LS says it is usually specified for commercial engines and also for the break-in period for new engines.
(It was OMC who tried 100:1 briefly in the 1980's but returned to 50:1 after a couple of years. It is not clear if that was due to engine damage caused by running 100:1 or due to insufficientf oil to protect the internals when not in use but it is said that there were a large number of warranty claims)

Check that the choke is opening. Check the fuel level is being controlled correctly by the float. It may be flooding slightly due to the level being incorrect or the valve not seating properly. I'd especially suspect the latter if it is difficult to start when it has been left on the dinghy with the fuel turned on.
As a general rule if the carb is inverted so that the float rests on the needle, holding it closed, the float should be parallel with the joint face and it should not be possible to blow through the fuel inlet.

From 1990 onwards there is an idle mixture adjustement screw which may have been disturbed. See #24 HERE

Correct plug is NGK BR5HS but you will have to refer to the owners manual for the correct gap ( but I'd expect anything from 30-40 thou to be OK)

 

[Dipper]

Correct plug is NGK BR5HS but you will have to refer to the owners manual for the correct gap ( but I'd expect anything from 30-40 thou to be OK)

That is the correct plug but my manual states that the gap should be 24 - 28 thou.

Whenever I have finished using the outboard (even temporarily) I turn the fuel off and allow most (all) to be used up before shutting off the engine. If I time it right I don't need to resort to the oars. It might be worth the OP trying that so as to avoid flooding the engine on restart when warm.

 

[ianat182]

Confirming VIC S's reply, the manual for the 2.2. quotes for the NGK BR5HS and gap of 0.6 - 0.7mm or 0.024 - 0.28 in. This is the standard plug and a recommended mix of 100:1 using a certified TC-W3(tm) oil.
My own outboard uses no choke at all, and the only starting difficulty I had was when the float in the carburettor became stuck and vented its fuel when using the tilt button.
It took 1/2 hour to strip down, check carburettor and filter, when I found this problem.
Laid sideways when tilted the float doesn't stick.
Brilliant little engine.

ianat182