Surprised about my old Coolbox

Refueler

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Yes I have one of those useless cool-boxes that really are an insulated box with a fan on front !

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I've never really liked it after it melted the ciggy socket that seller of boat reckoned it worked via. Obviously he didn't use it much either !

It's a shame really as the box is large, must be a good 20 - 25ltr capacity. Rubbermaid manufacturer who are a recognised reasonable co.

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I have measured its power draw and it ranges from 7 - 10A and unlike a thermostat controlled Waeco etc. does not cut out or reduce - it just keeps drawing Amps ... So it's 'power-hungry' to say the least.

Couple of days ago - I thought I would test it. So plugged it into my 240 - 12 transformer, switched on. Cabin temp was anywhere 20 - 25C (yes it's glorious over here at moment ....). I put a dual temp. gauge in .... that is remote probe inside the box and display outside.

Next day amazed !! Display showing temps ..... >

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and then later ... dunno why it changed but still not too bad ... >

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I have to admit that these were after near 20hrs running which is anywhere from 140 - 200 A/hrs of capacity used ! Or using 8A as average, 12V ... 20 hrs = 1.92KW !!

So anyway - point is I proved it works even though it's ancient machine. The idea now is to find a way to only have it powered when engines running, to stop draining batterys.

A kind gent who sent me his relay controlled charging circuit - intended for alternator to batterys, so wonder if this can be adapted to click in to power the coolbox once engine is started ... click out when engine off. That way I have maximum use but protected from discharging batt's .....

Later I switched it off and next day (note that only empty plastic bottles in there ...) the temp inside it was still significantly lower than outside ... 26C outside, 11C inside it.
 
Nige,
I have one of these

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that I no longer use. I had it for the same sort of coolbox you have, but have now fitted a Waeco unit that has a compressor - cost an arm and leg thought!!

I modified it to cut in and out at user-set different voltages - for when the engine was charging - but it can be de-modified by removing all the bits I added.

The instruction manual is on the boat, but you can download it from the link site.

Yours' for a very small donation and the cost of postage to Balti-land.
 
Re: Ambients

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I just wish it was reaching those @ 37˚01.45’N 22˚06.35’E.

I've a son in Muurame crowing over me!!!

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Like I said I was amazed. Usually I have used it like an ice box - freeze up as much as possible, that's Bread etc. Plus ice packs and trust it stays cold for a while. When plugged in - it hasn't usually seemed to have done much, but have to say that it was plugged in for near 24hrs to achieve above figures. The exterior temp I have feeling may be subject to being near the window - but still impressed !
 
The idea now is to find a way to only have it powered when engines running, to stop draining batterys.

Perkins 4.108 has an oil pressure warning light switch, use that to power a relay, so that it switches the coolbox on when there is oil pressure.

Theo.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The idea now is to find a way to only have it powered when engines running, to stop draining batterys.

Perkins 4.108 has an oil pressure warning light switch, use that to power a relay, so that it switches the coolbox on when there is oil pressure.

Theo.

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I already have offer of a switcher that will cut out when voltage drops as in alternator stopped. I also have a schematic that uses a headlight relay in the charge light lead to detect alternator charging - to then switch in to power the box. Can't decide which to go for at moment.

Oil light switch ? My 4-107 has this plugged and no switch fitted. But good idea.
 
The cheapest and most fail-safe way is to use the relay and feed from the charge light. This way, it will only run the cool-box when the engine is running and charging.

The only downside is if you use shoreside power when in a marina, when the box will get no power.

The alternative is the electronic switch that is made whenever the voltage goes above battery voltage - engine charging or shore power.
 
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The cheapest and most fail-safe way is to use the relay and feed from the charge light. This way, it will only run the cool-box when the engine is running and charging.

The only downside is if you use shoreside power when in a marina, when the box will get no power.

The alternative is the electronic switch that is made whenever the voltage goes above battery voltage - engine charging or shore power.

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At the moment I have a high power 240 - 12 tranformer so that into a manual switch would be ok I reckon.

The combinations and wiring is increasing each time I look at it !!

Definitely becoming a project !
 
If you wire your relay coil with its own switch in with the output from your engine "ignition" switch and connect the coolbox to the main power from the battery, via the relay contacts and a 12 amp fuse, the unit, even when switched on will only be powered when the engine "ignition" switch is on.

I can draw a circuit diagram for you if you like.
 
Re: Ambients

I have a similar one, used to use it when I was caravanning, it would flatten a battery as soon as look at it and cook the Zig unit! However I bought a mains converter for it, 240v - 12v (big amps!) When we reached the land of frogs and set up camp we would plug it in to the mains, 12 hours later it would start to get the beer cold, then once it had been on for 24 hours it was the dogs rognons, I have never had the guts to plug it in to the boat supply!!
Stu
 
I have recently designed and built a simple voltage controled relay to replace the split charge diodes I have at present. It only uses 2 transistors, 3 diodes, 7 resistors and, of course, the relay all built up on a small piece of stripboard. If you are interested I can send you a circuit and a diagram of how it is put together. I know you already have the offer of a commercial unit but knowing your 'practical' bent thought you might like to have ago at making one yourself.

John
 
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If you wire your relay coil with its own switch in with the output from your engine "ignition" switch and connect the coolbox to the main power from the battery, via the relay contacts and a 12 amp fuse, the unit, even when switched on will only be powered when the engine "ignition" switch is on.

I can draw a circuit diagram for you if you like.

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Many thanks for the offer ... Stemar sent me a diagram a while ago about charging relays etc. and that is easily altered to be power to the box instead.

My latest idea allied to this relay is a 3 position switch : transformer .... OFF ..... Alternator positions so I can have best of both worlds ... mains and engine. The switch obviously being box side of the relay. Won't harm the relay being clicked in when engine test run alongside and not powering box.

As Skipper Stu rightly says - they are amps hungry !! And I too am loathe to just plug into 12v - I only need to forget to unplug when engines not on and battery will be dead before you can shout "oh F***** !"
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have recently designed and built a simple voltage controled relay to replace the split charge diodes I have at present. It only uses 2 transistors, 3 diodes, 7 resistors and, of course, the relay all built up on a small piece of stripboard. If you are interested I can send you a circuit and a diagram of how it is put together. I know you already have the offer of a commercial unit but knowing your 'practical' bent thought you might like to have ago at making one yourself.

John

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Many thanks for offer ... at moment Stemars use of the Charge Indicator Light (exciter lead to Alternator) is simple and provides the 'trigger' for the relay.

I am interested in all ways to get around "Marine" items /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif as I reckon there are many ways to solve things without mortgaging the chequebook !

If you don't mind sending the details though - PM me for e-mail address - then it'd be appreciated.

You never know - our solving this power issue may just breathe some life back into others coolboxs !
 
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