Super bargain on a 1995 70ft Canados, what is the catch ?

with regard to the pocket anchor, I had one on a previous Azimut
Really?!? Which model?
I'm not arguing about your view - I just love my ground tackle, and I've yet to see a bow roller setup which could give a comparable flexibility, but each to their own on that.
Otoh, you made me curious, because I've seen plenty of AZ, and can't recall any with pocket anchor(s).
 
MapisM I think it is semantics, or rather that there isn't (afaik) any accepted jargon for these different anchor types. Mike's AZ46 had an anchor where the whole shank goes inside the hull, but the hawse hole is on the stem and the "claws" of the anchpr were external. Exactly same as my last 4 boats in fact. I've no idea whether it is correct to call these pocket anchors. I've only ever heard them called "recessed" anchors but that might not be universal. I tend to use pocket anchor where the shank disappears into a hawsepipe and the tips retreat into a pocket, obviously on the hull side not the stem. Where the shank disappears into the hawsepipe on the hull side but the claws remain fully external, I've no idea what you call it! Remember some pockets have doors that close over them - I've no idea what they're called

We need to coin some new jargon. The yachting industry will be grateful
 
Hello Oddvar,
Very nice boat that. Good luck if you do go ahead.

The village Lavagna on the other hand as such is not a nice place.
Hope it's not too much of a thread drift but I found a few photos of Lavagna. I don't think it's too bad there, if you look past the derelict boatyards near the marina. The new yacht club opened last year (quite posh)
There's train station there and the train to Pisa is 9 euros, 4 euro to the Cinque Terre

lavagna_zpsbce298b7.jpg


church_zps752cfd3a.jpg


churchview_zps5280ace8.jpg


front_zps17f32b0e.jpg


street_zps2a71c0e6.jpg
 
I don't think it's too bad there, if you look past the derelict boatyards near the marina.

OK, then we were wronly informed by the broker last week,
and
We didn't walk far enough out of the "hinter boatyard village"
when we were moored one night in the marina with BA in 2011, (a unprepaired stop for refueling and provisioning)
we had hard time to find a decent restaurant then, but we were probably in the wrond area.
looks nice from your pics.
 
I'm not an expert but wouldn't it be possible to seal the surface before laying a new teak deck by using a hydrophobic product like the one shown in this video? Might come in handy in the engine room as well.

 
I'm not an expert but wouldn't it be possible to seal the surface before laying a new teak deck by using a hydrophobic product like the one shown in this video? Might come in handy in the engine room as well.

doubt it's going to work for teak, don't forget that you need EXCELLENT adhesion properties to keep the teak in place. Teak is oily wood, tricky, have to clean it with solvents and quickly glue it on. The hydrophobic thing could hinder the effectiveness of the glue/caulking ending up with a right mess.

Now, using it on the bilges instead of bilge paint, again I somehow doubt that the hydrophobic properties will work with diesel spils, oils, coolant and all sorts of liquids that end up in the bilges

cheers

V.
 
but as evidenced by Bart's acrow-prop mods there might be a few aspects where Canados didn't really get their sums right on all this. So, you will need a lot of thought on sealing this, maybe using flexible polyurethane sealing or something. It would be a big disappointment if you fitted a new teak deck then had to remove it because the seal failed. I guess there will be good surveyors out there who have experience on this and can advise you

for those who don't remember, these were the Acrow props fitted in BA


01112012348lores_zpse32ed172.jpg

(see BA rebuild thread for more info)

but I was very pleased to see that Canados retrofitted steel tubes in this C23, in almost the same position, to acheeve the same effect.
This was done in 2011, when Canados replaced the engines, and a lot of other stuff in the ER,
Actually I pointed this pole to Oddvar, but forgot to make a pic.

regarding a flexible sealing of the deck floor (between the ply and the teac)
perhaps a similar stuff like this synthetic rubber coating, that I used in my shower sinks, could be used,
this was done to close the seams between the vertical walls and the horizontal sink.

DSCI0247.jpg


but this is indeed specialised stuff which will be exposed to weather and vibrations, so better asc the experienced specialists.
 
I'm guessing the original MAN engines were the V10s which I've been advised by more than one person to steer clear of. Also I'm guessing in this size of boat that they would be really working hard to push the boat at any decent speed so no surprise they were shagged. The new engines I'm guessing must be the D2842 V12 engines which I understand are good engines in which case, this boat is very attractive at the price even considering some serious refit work.

No Mike I've never come across any 70ft Canados with a V10, afaik they alway's have the V12 MAN (and I've seen one MTU)
my old mechanical injection version of this engine produces 1100Hp, but the newer common rail version (same base block) gives 1300HP... or more (?) iirc
and as you have probably noticed, this engine model is popular in this boat size.
Canados has used the MAN V10 in their 60ft.model, which is out of production since many years.
 
MapisM I think it is semantics, or rather that there isn't (afaik) any accepted jargon for these different anchor types. Mike's AZ46 had an anchor where the whole shank goes inside the hull, but the hawse hole is on the stem and the "claws" of the anchpr were external. Exactly same as my last 4 boats in fact. I've no idea whether it is correct to call these pocket anchors. I've only ever heard them called "recessed" anchors but that might not be universal. I tend to use pocket anchor where the shank disappears into a hawsepipe and the tips retreat into a pocket, obviously on the hull side not the stem. Where the shank disappears into the hawsepipe on the hull side but the claws remain fully external, I've no idea what you call it! Remember some pockets have doors that close over them - I've no idea what they're called

We need to coin some new jargon. The yachting industry will be grateful
Yes thats correct, it was only the shank that disappeared and the flukes of the Bruce anchor sat flat against the hull sides. Tidy arrangement but I prefer to see the anchor come up over the bow roller. The other big disadvantage was that there was no way to change to a different type of anchor like a Delta. I'm not a big fan of the Bruce anchor
 
No Mike I've never come across any 70ft Canados with a V10, afaik they alway's have the V12 MAN (and I've seen one MTU)
my old mechanical injection version of this engine produces 1100Hp, but the newer common rail version (same base block) gives 1300HP... or more (?) iirc
and as you have probably noticed, this engine model is popular in this boat size.
So your engines have the same basic block as the engines fitted to the F630 I'm considering, which has the common rail V12 rated at 1200hp? Yes this engine now produces 1360hp max. Yes this engine is quite common in boats of this size but I can't find any comments on the web about this engine, good or bad, except for basic tech info. I have heard rumours that sensors might give problems but thats all. Do you have any info? Are your engines still in good order?
 
Mike, there have been comments on here. TCM had LE406 version in his Leopard, 1200hp. I think (but will stand corrected) this is same block but pre common rail modification. A sunseeker hattan 70 on our quay in Antibes belonging to an experienced boat owner I've known for about 20 years (thru work) has the 1360. Both had to have cylinder head off within the first 2 years/couple of hundred hours
 
Mike, there have been comments on here. TCM had LE406 version in his Leopard, 1200hp. I think (but will stand corrected) this is same block but pre common rail modification. A sunseeker hattan 70 on our quay in Antibes belonging to an experienced boat owner I've known for about 20 years (thru work) has the 1360. Both had to have cylinder head off within the first 2 years/couple of hundred hours
OK thanks thats v useful info. Boat is being sold with 12 months warranty but I'm still going to have engines checked out
 
OK thanks thats v useful info. Boat is being sold with 12 months warranty but I'm still going to have engines checked out

That said, MYAG has the 1550 version in his Y80 and about 1000 trouble free hours. Also iirc the cylinder heads are individual, one per cylinder, and I don't know if in the above 2 cases just one was removed or more than one
 
That said, MYAG has the 1550 version in his Y80 and about 1000 trouble free hours. Also iirc the cylinder heads are individual, one per cylinder, and I don't know if in the above 2 cases just one was removed or more than one
Yes they look like individual cylinder heads
 
Yes they look like individual cylinder heads

Yes they are,

the MAN's in BA have 2800hrs now, and touch wood, no problems so far, (they or not Common Rail)
I tried to google for problems but could hardly find some,
I know they are not everybody's favourite, but in some yards in SOF and Italy where I've been they are considered to be a good and safe choice.
In US they have a reputation for expensive spareparts, I assume this has to do with the price addup of distribution, tax and logistics...
On one US Boat forum they mention 5000 to 7000 hrs before a complete rebuild.

I'm very pleased with them; as service is widely available, and spare parts are cheap
prices from my last invoice: (direct from MAN original parts)
- the big air filters; 86 euro pp.
- Oil filter inserts: 15 euro pp
- Fuelfilters: 13,85 euro pp
- Prefilter inserts (Racor): 17,30 euro pp
I need 2 pcs of each for each engine (all x4)

The VP spare parts for my Karnic are more expensive.
 
Yes they are,

the MAN's in BA have 2800hrs now, and touch wood, no problems so far, (they or not Common Rail)
I tried to google for problems but could hardly find some,
I know they are not everybody's favourite, but in some yards in SOF and Italy where I've been they are considered to be a good and safe choice.
In US they have a reputation for expensive spareparts, I assume this has to do with the price addup of distribution, tax and logistics...
On one US Boat forum they mention 5000 to 7000 hrs before a complete rebuild.

I'm very pleased with them; as service is widely available, and spare parts are cheap
prices from my last invoice: (direct from MAN original parts)
- the big air filters; 86 euro pp.
- Oil filter inserts: 15 euro pp
- Fuelfilters: 13,85 euro pp
- Prefilter inserts (Racor): 17,30 euro pp
I need 2 pcs of each for each engine (all x4)

The VP spare parts for my Karnic are more expensive.

That's reassuring Bart. I don't anticipate any shocks over parts prices as basically these are truck engines and I have heard that UK parts prices are reasonable.
 
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