Suggested methods for attaching Solar Panel to Pushpit and other related questions

[thesaintlyone]

Just purchased a 20w solar panel kit with controller etc which I would like to attach to the pushpit rail (Stern.... Think I got that right) do any of you have any ideas how best to mount it.......

Would very much like to know how others have gone about it.

Plus the panel its self came fitted with crocodile clips. Now as I understand it when using a controller you run the panel wires into the appropriate points on the controller and then another set of wires from the controller to the battery so what are the crocodile clips for???

Finally on my boat I have a battery switch and busbar set up do the aforementioned wires from the controller connect direct to the battery terminals or something else

Regards

 

[JumbleDuck]

Just purchased a 20w solar panel kit with controller etc which I would like to attach to the pushpit rail (Stern.... Think I got that right) do any of you have any ideas how best to mount it.......

Is that on a Jouster? I'd put it on the sliding hatch, myself. Tons of room there. There are brackets to attach outboard brackets to stern rails, which might be adaptable.

Plus the panel its self came fitted with crocodile clips. Now as I understand it when using a controller you run the panel wires into the appropriate points on the controller and then another set of wires from the controller to the battery so what are the crocodile clips for???

So you can attach it to a biggish battery without a controller. I think the normal guideline is "five time", so a 20W panel is fine unregulated on a 100Ah battery or larger.

Finally on my boat I have a battery switch and busbar set up do the aforementioned wires from the controller connect direct to the battery terminals or something else

Use the thickest wires you can and have the shortest run from controller to battery possible. If your battery is in the usual place, under the quarter berth aft of the dinette, I'd put the controller down there too.

 

[thesaintlyone]

Yes it is on the jouster, I considered the Hatch but thought it might get in the way as its a framed panel not the flush type.
If I do put it on the Hatch top can it bolt directly on (have visions of it burning a hole through the GRP) which begs another potentially dumb question do the actual solar panels get hot.

TBH I have the controller so I might as well use it plus it gives me a battery level indicator.

So direct on the terminals is okay what wire is recommended.

Many thanks

 

[PaulRainbow]

I have a large on on a pole clamped to the pushpit :



and a couple of semi-flexible ones on the cabin top.



I'd wire direct to the controller then directly to the battery, stick a fuse in the positive, close to the battery. The wire doesn't need to be massive, enough to carry the charging current making due allowance for current drop.

Some tinned cable is best, such as : http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/884/category/159

 

[thesaintlyone]

Was watching this video below to see how its done he suggests 13amp would that be okay I do have inline yellow marine fuses tho.

On my setup in the jouster I currently have all negatives going to a bus bar and positives going to a marine controll panel that is connected to a battery 1+2 switch with marine fuse in-between the control panel and battery switch im this case where do I connect the positive and negative wires for the loads
Presume negative to the bus bar.

https://youtu.be/HmDK_DLDZHo

 

[BabaYaga]

I think the normal guideline is "five time", so a 20W panel is fine unregulated on a 100Ah battery or larger.

I thought the rule of thumb was rather 5 percent (5W panel to 100Ah battery), but even this is not necessarily safe:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/do_i_need_a_controller

 

[JumbleDuck]

If I do put it on the Hatch top can it bolt directly on (have visions of it burning a hole through the GRP) which begs another potentially dumb question do the actual solar panels get hot.

As hot as any other black thing left out in the sun, yes. Or nearly so, anyway, since at full load they might convert 20% of incoming solar radiation to electricity, if you're lucky.

I have semi-flexible ones on my coachroof and they certainly get warm, but not outrageously hot to the touch.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Was watching this video below to see how its done he suggests 13amp would that be okay I do have inline yellow marine fuses tho.

On my setup in the jouster I currently have all negatives going to a bus bar and positives going to a marine controll panel that is connected to a battery 1+2 switch with marine fuse in-between the control panel and battery switch im this case where do I connect the positive and negative wires for the loads
Presume negative to the bus bar.

https://youtu.be/HmDK_DLDZHo

20w at 12v is only 1.7amp, not that you're ever going to get 20w in UK climate

I'd get some of the 21a tinned cable from the link i posted.

Negative from the controller can go to the busbar. Positive needs to be before the isolator switch, or the panel won't charge when you're not onboard. You can fit it to the battery or to the switch input, whichever is easier. Bare in mind neatness and fuse location though. It might be neater to run the wires from the panel to the battery area and fit the controller and fuse there, then straight to the battery terminals.

 

[thesaintlyone]

20w at 12v

Negative from the controller can go to the busbar. Positive needs to be before the isolator switch, or the panel won't charge when you're not onboard. You can fit it to the battery or to the switch input, whichever is easier. Bare in mind neatness and fuse location though. It might be neater to run the wires from the panel to the battery area and fit the controller and fuse there, then straight to the battery terminals.

So almost got it. Just clarifying When your talking about the Negative and Positive you are referring to the two wires that run from the controller to the loads i.e. Lights Depth sounder etc and I can simply connect the positive back to the battery on onto the battery selector switch

Regards

 

[PaulRainbow]

So almost got it. Just clarifying When your talking about the Negative and Positive you are referring to the two wires that run from the controller to the loads i.e. Lights Depth sounder etc and I can simply connect the positive back to the battery on onto the battery selector switch

Regards

The two wires from the panel are positive and negative and go to the relevant terminals on the controller. You then connect negative and positive wires from the controller to the battery.

You can fit the wires from the controller to the battery itself or to the negative busbar and/or the input terminal of your isolator switch, the one that's connected straight to your battery.

If you have separate engine and domestic batteries you might want to connect the panel to the domestic battery rather than the engine battery. Chances are you'll run the engine to get into the marina and the engine battery will be charged up. The domestic battery is more likely to be discharged the most, depending on your setup of course.

 

[shaunksb]

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You could just use some 25mm add on tubing to the pushpit (from Seascrew) and mount something on there like so

____________________

 

[thesaintlyone]

The two wires from the panel are positive and negative and go to the relevant terminals on the controller. You then connect negative and positive wires from the controller to the battery.

You can fit the wires from the controller to the battery itself or to the negative busbar and/or the input terminal of your isolator switch, the one that's connected straight to your battery.

If you have separate engine and domestic batteries you might want to connect the panel to the domestic battery rather than the engine battery. Chances are you'll run the engine to get into the marina and the engine battery will be charged up. The domestic battery is more likely to be discharged the most, depending on your setup of course.

I See, my set up is one battery but no charging from outboard, tho there are cables on the outboard. Battery is just house only

What do I do with the positive and negative wires that run from the controller to the accessories

On the video its at 4m 16s

Or do i simply not need part this as my battery is already connected via a busbar/control panel

Thanks

 

[thesaintlyone]

.

You could just use some 25mm add on tubing to the pushpit (from Seascrew) and mount something on there like so

____________________

Thats what im looking for is that diy or a kit

Thanks

 

[PaulRainbow]

I See, my set up is one battery but no charging from outboard, tho there are cables on the outboard. Battery is just house only

What do I do with the positive and negative wires that run from the controller to the accessories

On the video its at 4m 16s

Or do i simply not need part this as my battery is already connected via a busbar/control panel

Thanks

For your installation i can't see the point in using the load functions. I'd just let it charge the battery and run your load from the battery as you are currently doing. Which controller are you using ?

Reminder about your fuse, it needs to be as close to the battery as possible, so if your switch is a distance from the battery, wire the controller directly to the battery.

 

[Binman]

The saintly one Could you give us a photo, from underneath your panel set up, is it quick release.thanks

 

[thesaintlyone]

For your installation i can't see the point in using the load functions. I'd just let it charge the battery and run your load from the battery as you are currently doing. Which controller are you using ?

Reminder about your fuse, it needs to be as close to the battery as possible, so if your switch is a distance from the battery, wire the controller directly to the battery.

atandard controller that came with the kit

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ukn9dy775ndj3s/DSC_1076.JPG?dl=0

 

[thesaintlyone]

The saintly one Could you give us a photo, from underneath your panel set up, is it quick release.thanks

There are 4 holes on the back but only 2 at top are clear in the photo

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u25lxrio3abcyp9/DSC_1081.JPG?dl=0

 

[PaulRainbow]

atandard controller that came with the kit

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ukn9dy775ndj3s/DSC_1076.JPG?dl=0

Cannot see any point in getting that to do anything fancier than charging the battery. Your panel will mostly be working while you're not on the boat, all it can do then is charge the battery. When you are onboard it'll put the panel output into the battery, where your equipment is connected anyway. Check your manual for the controller settings, you can most likely turn the load functions off anyway.

 

[thesaintlyone]

All installed and working tho I still have to mount the panel, which will have to be on the pushpit rails as the hatchway is curved and its a rigid panel.