Stumped by a stanchion

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scrambledegg

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Is there anybody who can advise me on fixing a stanchion. This has always been inward-leaning since I bought the boat (a sigma 362), but was recently dealt the coup-de-grace by a well-meaning soul who put as much weight as he could muster against it to hold me off a pontoon.
The two bolts holding the base to the toe rail (on a horizontal axis) have sheared off. The problem is that there is still a round peg/spigot coming up vertically from the toe rail which won't let go of the base, although the base is free to rotate and can rock quite a bit. I don't know if this peg is intended to grip the base, or whether it's the bending that's made it do it.
So these three images show, respectively: How the stanchion and base should be attached to the toe rail, the base partially detached from the toe rail with stanchion removed and lastly a view from above into the base.
I see this type of base on Moodys so reckon someone out there knows all about it.
Thanks

IMG_0976_reduced.jpg
IMG_0975_reduced.jpg
IMG_0980_reduced.jpg
 
You probably won't be able to remove the two lateral screws, they're usually corroded in. The screw through the base will have a nut below the toe rail and deck.
 
Had a similar problem getting the bottom screw out from below was a real b*stard, once I had the bit off I got the remains of bolts out by heating the whole bit with a blowlamp and drifting out the bits
 
There are one vertical and two horizontal bolts holding the socket in place, all going through the aluminium toe-rail.
You need to replace and make good all three. If the socket is badly worn you'll have to replace.

I bought my replacement sockets from the Bursledon Barge. New ones are unobtainable.
When you replace the stanchion, use plenty of self-amalgamating tape or another insulation material to make sure it's a drift fit into the socket and to reduce corrosion (SS & Aluminium) .
Make sure you fit a split pin through socket and base of stanchion (a threaded bolt is not a good idea because of Al/SS).
 
maxi77 said:
Had a similar problem getting the bottom screw out from below was a real b*stard, once I had the bit off I got the remains of bolts out by heating the whole bit with a blowlamp and drifting out the bits
Click to expand...

Thanks Peter. Be grateful if you would elaborate a bit on "drifting out". Is that something more precise than whacking it?
 
charles_reed said:
There are one vertical and two horizontal bolts holding the socket in place, all going through the aluminium toe-rail.
You need to replace and make good all three. If the socket is badly worn you'll have to replace.

I bought my replacement sockets from the Bursledon Barge. New ones are unobtainable.
When you replace the stanchion, use plenty of self-amalgamating tape or another insulation material to make sure it's a drift fit into the socket and to reduce corrosion (SS & Aluminium) .
Make sure you fit a split pin through socket and base of stanchion (a threaded bolt is not a good idea because of Al/SS).
Click to expand...

New ones from:-
http://www.sl-yachting.com/ys47-20-stanchion-base-i74.html

or

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/YS-Alloy-Stanchion-Base-YS47-20-PBYS_0047_20.html#SID=629
 
Unfortunately the fixing-hole centres were entirely different on the Seamark Nunn ones, when measured, to the 1990's system on my boat and (I suspect) on the OPs.
The price is also somewhat discouraging - I'd have got 24 of the ones that fitted, compared to 1 of the one that didn't. I'd suggest making a careful check.
 
scrambledegg said:
Be grateful if you would elaborate a bit on "drifting out". Is that something more precise than whacking it?
Click to expand...
Drifting out requires a drift, a metal rod with a diameter a little less than the bolt or whatever. Then whacking it :)

How can we get the message across to members of the public, and some boating types, that stanchions are not for fending off with.
 
charles_reed said:
Unfortunately the fixing-hole centres were entirely different on the Seamark Nunn ones, when measured, to the 1990's system on my boat and (I suspect) on the OPs.
The price is also somewhat discouraging - I'd have got 24 of the ones that fitted, compared to 1 of the one that didn't. I'd suggest making a careful check.
Click to expand...

Interesting, the SL ones fitted my 1980's version perfectly... I only had 4 on the side I wanted to replace... I also replaced the tubular stainless stanchions with the ally jobs designed for the bases.
 
Hi I had to replace some on our old Mirage 28 as expansion of the stanchions due to corrosion had cracked the bases. It is important to grease the bottom of the leg & make sure the drainage hole is kept clear and the plastic sleeve is in place, I use to cut up plastic milk bottles, which worked well.
I still have two secondhand ones that didn't fit properly, the angle on base made them lean inboard about 10 degrees but if you think they might be of use, you are welcome to them. I'm not sure if they had been specially made or modified for what ever boat they were originally for but it might mean that there are more than one type available. PM me if you are interested in them.
 
scrambledegg said:
Thanks sailorman. But (Oh joy!) a dismantling of the galley shelving to get at it.
Click to expand...
If only you had a Bavaria & not a well built English yacht, they ( Bav ) use self tappers
YS47-20.jpg



http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item.asp?cat_id=4&prod_id=153#
 
Last edited:
Had to do nearly all mine several years ago, well apart from the pushpit & pulpit which were rock solid so left well alone. Stanchion bases are still obtainable but at a price - were made originally by YS fittings and now marketed by Allen. One or two I had to butcher completely to remove from the stanchion and toe rail. Replacements came with the plastic liner which is essential. I fitted all new M6 bolts etc fitted with DURALAC so should not get problems in the future. Had difficulty getting to some vertical bolts - had to cut the plywood deckhead and cover with a similar piece of ply screwed to the original. Barely noticeable unless you really look. A B****** of a job, some took 30 mins, others took several hours! Managed to get replacement stanchion bases and stanchions from ebay at a good price. Good Luck!
 
sailorman said:
If only you had a Bavaria & not a well built English yacht, they ( Bav ) use self tappers
Click to expand...

That is completely untrue. They use bolts through the toe rail and deck just like other builders. Also just like the OP's have inaccessible nuts hidden behind cabinet work, although some are easy to access inside lockers.

Guess how I know.
 
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