Strengthening a Westerly fin keel.

You are obviously far more qualified than me then because I'v only spent the last 40 odd years testing fibreglass structures to destruction, including keels.

So what would I know, just that I would never put poly resin over epoxy based on observation and a lot of time.

http://www.boatbuilding.net/article.pl?sid=06/02/14/142213 said:
Our test clearly demonstrates that polyester gelcoat will bond to a properly prepared WEST SYSTEM® epoxy as well as to a cured polyester laminate.

You'll spot the word "cured" in there, of course. There is no doubt that if you have reasonably recent - ie not fully cured - polyester, then the best thing to put on top of it is more polyester, since the two will bond chemically to produce, effectively, one big cured lump. When it's older stuff, like a well cured boat hull, you don't get that effect, and you rely purely on the "stickiness" of whatever you're putting on top.

Now, I had two problems to deal with. First of all, the new material had to go on top of an existing hull. It doesn't make much difference what you use for that: the interface will always be the weak point. Whether it's unacceptably weak - it isn't - is another matter.

Second, I had the stainless keels to embed. For that bit of the job, a high strength structural epoxy was clearly indicated. On application that's a thick, black evil stuff, quite unlike layup epoxy. It also sticks very well to both old and new polyester.

Finally, there were some cost implications. The repair took around five gallons of polyester resin - doing it in layup epoxy would have been much more expensive for negligible benefit.

So there we have the constraints. And here, in detail, is the bonding sequence.

First, clean up the hull inside, first with a high speed rotary brush then with some careful grinding

Next, fill up the "grooves" alongside the keel mounting. That's effectively just a bit of filling, about 2" wide by 1" deep, so polyester was fine. Foam with a skim of glass, or even just some balsa, would probably have done just as well but the polyester was on hand and it didn;t take long.

Next, prepare for fitting the floors. Cut grooves/channels as described in the now slightly built up mounting, and carefully bend the floors individually to shape. Possibly the fiddliest bit of the whole operation, consisting of one of us bending them in a big vice beside the boat and the other testing them in situ: "needs to come up a bit at the end", "bit curvier there" and so on.

Next, bed in the floors, using high-strength (and high-shear, iirc) structural epoxy. Some of that bonding was to the new layup in the middle, but most was directly onto the prepared inner surface of the hull. Epoxy is definitely better for that than polyester.

OK, so far so good. That was one aim of the job well under way - strengthening the keel-hull join and spreading the load. The other related aim was to add some strength to the hull and that was done by building up the layup considerably over the new floors and beyond. What was exposed at this stage was a little new polyester, a fair bit of stainless and a lot of old polyester, since the layup had to extend well beyond the floors.

The solution arrived at, after much discussion, was to put another layer of structural epoxy on top of the floors, then build up the whole thing with polyester. The stainless-epoxy-polyester system was much stronger than straight stainless-polyester would have been. Structural epoxy for the whole thing was out of the question, because it's gloopy (technical term) and not remotely suitable for layup. A layup epoxy would certainly have been a bit stronger, but the interface with the old hull polyester would always have been the weak spot and the new polyester was quite adequate and cost effective.

Would I do it the same way now? Yes, probably, subject always to noting that polymer chemistry and the market place have both developed over 20+ years. I would certainly think about using an epoxy layup, but that would need a good cost-benefit analysis. I'm very happy with how the job worked out and I have been very happy to trust my life to the results many, many times since!
 
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30boat, thanks a bunch for all the advice. Lots of useful stuff in there. It sounds extremely doable then, so I think I'll have a go and save myself some money.

Thanks to everyone else for the replies too. Much appreciated.

Steve.
 
30boat, thanks a bunch for all the advice. Lots of useful stuff in there. It sounds extremely doable then, so I think I'll have a go and save myself some money.

Thanks to everyone else for the replies too. Much appreciated.

Steve.

The main thing to remember about composite work - and I hope the others will agree with me on this, at least - is that once you have a plan, implementing it is generally fairly straightforward ... and if it does go wrong you can easily grind off your blooper and start again. It can be messy, sticky, smelly and time consuming, but requires far less craft skill than, say, repairing a wooden boat.

Good luck and happy grinding. Make sure you wear really good eye, hand and face protection - glass fibres are a real bugger if they get on your skin!
 
I am just finishing this on my Konsort. My surveyor(!!!) said the same thing but I have it on good authority that the problems with Westerly keels was with bilge keels not fins. Having said that the structure above the keel was in very poor condition. The boat was home completed and to get the cabin sole level they had ground off the top of the floors and stringers which effectively removed the strength from the top hat sections. This along with other mods was removed and replaced with a wooden "eggcreate" frame which was shaped, sealed with epoxy then bedded on thickened epoxy. Before being glassed in. the frame was built with 35mm softwood and the lamination has added 10mm to the height and 20mm to the width, all epoxy. Costly, messy and a long job but I believe it has added a lot of strength to the hull. As previously said all the outer extremities are run out to nothing to blend into the hull and spread the load and ensure that there should be no hard points.

hope that is of some help. It is not a job to be taken lightly that is for sure.
 
30boat, thanks a bunch for all the advice. Lots of useful stuff in there. It sounds extremely doable then, so I think I'll have a go and save myself some money.

Thanks to everyone else for the replies too. Much appreciated.

Steve.

Most welcome.I can take pictures next week if it helps.
 
I just had a look at Ian Nicolson's survey report on my Renown (same hull and keel as your Longbow.) Regarding the keel he says that the boat has "flying floors" but that this is "standard construction for the class." Apart from the usual requirement to have keel bolts drawn for inspection some time in the future, he made no requirements regarding the keel and passed the boat as a normal insurance risk. He also said verbally that these boats were over-built, are tough as old boots and, given normal care and maintenance, will be sailing long after most of currently produced yachts have gone to the scrapyard. The survey was done this year.

Remarks about other Westerlies may not be relevant. The ones built in the 70's had heavier floors than later designs such as the Fulmar. I would get a second opinion, by which I mean a shipright, not another surveyor, as to whether repair is needed and for advice on how to do it.
 
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Some earlier Westerlys (early 80's models) were deficient in the strength of the hull in the area of the keel bolts; frames were added to later models to spread the load and avoid the problem of flexing. This approach is pretty general now.

Your surveyor's comment causes me to pause: laying in wood to thicken the hull in the area of the bolts and glassing in etc would add some stability but I doubt if that will be sufficient if you are really experiencing flexing now to such a degree.

A bespoke metal frame shaped to the hull with holes for the bolts (are they long enought to pass through this frame and secure?) and bedded in would be the proper solution. This would not be massively expensive to have fabricated and would pass muster as a pro job when selling the boat on. Ply and glass could well disappoint, and detract from the value of the boat!

PWG
 
I just had a look at Ian Nicolson's survey report on my Renown (same hull and keel as your Longbow.) Regarding the keel he says that the boat has "flying floors" but that this is "standard construction for the class." Apart from the usual requirement to have keel bolts drawn for inspection some time in the future, he made no requirements regarding the keel and passed the boat as a normal insurance risk. He also said verbally that these boats were over-built, are tough as old boots and, given normal care and maintenance, will be sailing long after most of currently produced yachts have gone to the scrapyard. The survey was done this year.

Remarks about other Westerlies may not be relevant. The ones built in the 70's had heavier floors than later designs such as the Fulmar.

Hmm. Interesting. The Renown / Longbow are, like my Jouster, early 70s Laurent Giles designs. Mine was certainly very heavily built - the problems were down to design, not construction. On the other hand, the Jouster was designed for JOG racing and based on a very heavily cut down Warwick ... perhaps they got a bit overenthusiastic about lightening things?

I think the OP needs to get back to his surveyor or survey and ask or check for more detail. What does "some movement between our keel bolts and the 'transverse members'" actually mean? Keel bolts loose, floors loose, floors flexing, hull flexing ...?
 
My Fulmar had very weak widely spaced plywood floors.There were no signs of flexing though ,probably because the laminate is so thick.
A metal frame would have been nice and I have the skills to fabricate one but in the end I went for the traditional wood/fiberglass approach and that worked very well.The bolts are long enough to allow extra laminate thickness .As I said on my boat there's so much material allready there I didn't that would be needed.
 
30 boat, do these photo's resemble your fittings, they are of my 81 Fulmar and passed a survey this year, surveyor even commented about lack of signs of movement between hull and keel joint.
 
30 boat, do these photo's resemble your fittings, they are of my 81 Fulmar and passed a survey this year, surveyor even commented about lack of signs of movement between hull and keel joint.

Not at all.Those appear to be very well made.Quite substantial.My boat only had a few widely spaced thin webs that were only lighty covered in fiberglass.Mind you mine is the first Fulmar so maybe they were still doing it the old way.The floors I made are more or less the same thickness of yours.Interestingly enough there were no signs of movement in my keel as well.
 
Gee Whiz. Between the headlining falling down and the keel flexing the hull, I am surprised that some folk still say that Westerlies were well built.

Is this why they went out of business I wonder?
 
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Gee Whiz. Between the headlining falling down and the keel flexing the hull, I am surprised that some folk still say that Westerlies were well built.

I'd certainly say that mine was well built, though in one respect (the keel fitting) not well designed. Any boat which used foam backed vinyl headlining would have the same problem after 25 years ... you only hear about it on Westerlies because they are so well built that (a) there are still lots of them afloat after 25+ years and (b) there isn't much else to complain about on them.

Is this why they went out of business I wonder?

All boat builders go out of business. It is a natural rhythm: as night follows day and death follows birth, so does official receiver follow naval architect. Half-life is about five years.
 
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They are well built.I trust mine enormously.There were mistakes made that can be easily rectified.You van have a crappily built boat with a great headlining or a well attached keel.With the Westerlies it's the other way around.Well built boats with bad headlinings and some keel probs.
 
Sorry for the later reply here. Just wanted to say thanks a lot to everyone for a load of great advice and information. If anyone has got any useful pictures I'd love to see them. But anyway, thanks a bunch.

Much appreciated,

Steve.
 
I do remember way back in the Westerly Owners Association - probably around 1997 or so there was a mention of a Westerly - can't remember type but it was called 'Speedbird' as far as I can remember - that had a far worse problem - there were leaks around keelbolts after a crossing from Hamble to the Channel Isles. On hauling out the boatyard could move the keel by hand. Surveyor allowed it to return to UK under engine in calm weather.

When it was inspected it was found that much of the 25mm thick layup had not yet cured on what was a more than 10 year old boat at the time. Westerly's quality control must have had a worse than usual day.
 
You are obviously far more qualified than me then because I'v only spent the last 40 odd years testing fibreglass structures to destruction, including keels.

So what would I know, just that I would never put poly resin over epoxy based on observation and a lot of time.

Avagoodweekend......

Love this forum when academics carry on.
PS
they are usually left wing to boot and dont brook argument!
Stu
 
Gee Whiz. Between the headlining falling down and the keel flexing the hull, I am surprised that some folk still say that Westerlies were well built.

Is this why they went out of business I wonder?

The headlining falling down as you put it, is not correct.
The headlining was foam backed, and, after a time the foam deteriorates in places causing intermittent sag, affectionately called in Westerly circles "Westerly Droop". It is additionally exacerbated by drastic changes in temperature.This is easily remedied by relining.

The keel does not flex the hull.
In finkeeled boats the keel fastening is definitely overengineered.
No finkeeled Westerly has ever lost its keel.

As for your third comment, the answer is no. So stop wondering.:eek:
 
They are well built.I trust mine enormously.There were mistakes made that can be easily rectified.You van have a crappily built boat with a great headlining or a well attached keel.With the Westerlies it's the other way around.Well built boats with bad headlinings and some keel probs.

The headlining is not bad.
The foam deteriorating over time was an unforseen problem.
They are structurally very sound and built to lloyds hull construction cert.
The problem of the headlining keeps on cropping up again and again.
This is symptomatic of one of a cluster of national pastimes.
This one has two components, "grumbling" and "moaning"..:eek:
 
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