Storing Outboard

[RIN]

We are between boats having sold our boat last summer (that alone being responsible for the good boating weather so far this year)

I have the 2HP 4 stroke outboard at home and it still has petrol in. It may be another year before our next boat so any advice on how to decommission it so it will start ok in the future?

Cheers


Richard

 

[sarabande]

change the gearbox and engine oils - you are only going to be running the o/b for a few minutes, so it is not going become full of scavenged bits. Clean oil is the best corrosion inhibitor internally.

Secure the o/b with the bottom end into a dustbin full of fresh water, and run the motor for a few minutes to flush out any salt. Repeat, if you are feeling picky, with more clean water.

When you are ready, on the last run close the fuel tap and let the carb empty and run dry so the engine stops. Remove from bin and let it drain, possible moving it around to release any water in cooling passages.

Drain all remaining fuel from the tank. Close the air valve; that will prevent humidity getting into the tank.

Use a good preserving oil (Duck Oil, Castrol Rustilo, etc)spray over the engine metal work, avoiding any electrics, and over bare metal work on the leg. Wrap some cloth round the prop so that no-one trips up and cuts himself.

Extract the spark plug, put a teaspoon of engine oil in, and turn the engine over slowly so that the piston goes up and down a few times. Replace plug.

Oil any twist grip cables and carb linkages. Car wax the hood and other shiny bits but don't polish it. Remove the kill cord and hide it somewhere safe and 'rememberable'.

A water pump impeller can set hard if left for months in one position. You may want to remove an impeller if it's rubber, so that it retains its natural shape.

Store o/b upright in a frost free area, and photo it for insurance porpoises. Cover with a clean cloth.


Every few months go and talk to it, possibly pulling the start cord slowly to keep the piston lubed.

 

[rwilson]

Very good advice

 

[VicS]

When you are ready, on the last run close the fuel tap and let the carb empty and run dry so the engine stops. .........

Extract the spark plug, put a teaspoon of engine oil in, and turn the engine over slowly so that the piston goes up and down a few times.

I would consider spraying fogging oil into the air intake, or two stroke oil from a trigger spray bottle, to stall the engine. This will leave the piston and rings and the valve stems lubricated.
Then drain the carb as well as the fuel tank, although draining the carb is probably not as necessary with a 4 stroke as it is with a 2 stroke.

 

[Spi D]

Good advice, even if you decide to store it for a number of years.

If no frost free area available run in a anti freeze coolant mix instead of water and just leave it with whatever amount stays inside. Protects the water jacket etc. against corrosion too.
If you want to place it lying down, check with owners manual what side to put it on - 4-strokes need to be placed right to keep engine oil in the sump

Be prepared to replace spark plug and impeller when storage ends and it returns to it's intended life.

 

[sarabande]

I would consider spraying fogging oil into the air intake, or two stroke oil from a trigger spray bottle, to stall the engine. This will leave the piston and rings and the valve stems lubricated.

Good wheeze, VicS. There are some highly expensive specialist sprays to do just that, but 2T oil from a spray is a great idea. I like it.


Also SpiD for the antifreeze suggestion. As I have frost free storage, that process had not occurred to me.



I have four outboards in storage at present, Penta 8 (elderly), Ailsa Craig 4 (ditto), Mariner 2.5, and of course a Seagull One of these days....

 

[RIN]

change the gearbox and engine oils - you are only going to be running the o/b for a few minutes, so it is not going become full of scavenged bits. Clean oil is the best corrosion inhibitor internally.

Secure the o/b with the bottom end into a dustbin full of fresh water, and run the motor for a few minutes to flush out any salt. Repeat, if you are feeling picky, with more clean water.

When you are ready, on the last run close the fuel tap and let the carb empty and run dry so the engine stops. Remove from bin and let it drain, possible moving it around to release any water in cooling passages.

Drain all remaining fuel from the tank. Close the air valve; that will prevent humidity getting into the tank.

Use a good preserving oil (Duck Oil, Castrol Rustilo, etc)spray over the engine metal work, avoiding any electrics, and over bare metal work on the leg. Wrap some cloth round the prop so that no-one trips up and cuts himself.

Extract the spark plug, put a teaspoon of engine oil in, and turn the engine over slowly so that the piston goes up and down a few times. Replace plug.

Oil any twist grip cables and carb linkages. Car wax the hood and other shiny bits but don't polish it. Remove the kill cord and hide it somewhere safe and 'rememberable'.

A water pump impeller can set hard if left for months in one position. You may want to remove an impeller if it's rubber, so that it retains its natural shape.

Store o/b upright in a frost free area, and photo it for insurance porpoises. Cover with a clean cloth.


Every few months go and talk to it, possibly pulling the start cord slowly to keep the piston lubed.

Good stuff thanks, tried to reply yesterday but must have had a technical problem. Good news is the small Honda is air cooled so no impeller or water chambers to worry about. I'm just in the process of making a small bracket to fix to the wall in the garage to keep it out of the way when it has been decommissioned

Richard.