fisherman
Well-Known Member
Is yours current = stop, or current= go. the point being that failure in current to the second can stop the engine. I had one such and reversed it.
I admit I don't know!Is yours current = stop, or current= go. the point being that failure in current to the second can stop the engine. I had one such and reversed it.
I was watching the Tasmanian lobster boat prog, he had an energise to run solenoid that failed and was flummoxed when the engine stopped, even knowing it was a faulty solenoid. Bit of string would have cured it.
I admit I don't know!
It's a Beta, I've only had the boat 10 minutes....
I've been told it's energise to stop, but I'll believe it when I find it in the actual manual and/or put a volt meter on it.
It i energise to stop, as are most (not all) marine engines. No need for a volt meter to test it, remove the wire with the engine running, it will keep going.
Yes, energise to stop. We had a failed stop solenoid on our Beta engine in club launch a few years ago, it seized up in the stop position. IIRC there was an instruction in the manual not to press the stop button for very long as solenoid would overheat.
If it was energise to run you would hear it click over at ignition turn on. A local Lister stationary engine is rigged so, it's convenient because ignition turn off also stops the engine. With my Ford it was button, energise to stop, but if you turned the ignition off before the engine had completely stopped rotataing it would restart, with interesting lights and beeps as the key was off. One local boat has energise to run (Beta?) and has had a perplexing non start.
Yes exactly my point in re the Tasmanian fisherman.In that case, an electrical fault or a faulty solenoid/relay leaves you without an engine. The benefit of energise to stop is that it's a few less things that could disable the engine.