Stop level on Volvo Penta 2002 pulled out of transom moulding

[Muddy13]

I have a manual stop level (pull to stop or prime cold-start) level built into an engine instrument panel on a Sadler 29 that has pulled out of the moulding. The moulded section feels very thin/brittle and the small washer holding it in place has pulled through. The 'plunger' needs a little grease to free the movement, but I'm wondering it this has happened to any one else and what fix they used?

On the Sadler, the moulding is sealed to the transom with silicone mastic, some my plan is to remove the moulding and epoxy a bit of ply behind moulding and use as stainless washer on both sides to reinforce the original hole.

Steve.

 

[No Regrets]

Big washer, or cheaply fabricated steel plate? :encouragement:

 

[reeac]

I have a manual stop level (pull to stop or prime cold-start) level built into an engine instrument panel on a Sadler 29 that has pulled out of the moulding. The moulded section feels very thin/brittle and the small washer holding it in place has pulled through. The 'plunger' needs a little grease to free the movement, but I'm wondering it this has happened to any one else and what fix they used?
On my Sadler the cold start control is fixed to the engine compartment bulkhead next to the electrical switch in the quarter berth. Sounds as if yours has been moved to make it accessible whilst at the helm. I agree ,..... big backing washer required.

On the Sadler, the moulding is sealed to the transom with silicone mastic, some my plan is to remove the moulding and epoxy a bit of ply behind moulding and use as stainless washer on both sides to reinforce the original hole.

Steve.

 

[reeac]

My reply seems to have been lost so here goes again: my understanding is that the cold start control on the Sadler 29 is usually located next to the master switch on the engine side bulkhead in the Quarterberth. This makes life difficult for single handed sailing and maybe yours was relocated to the transom for that reason. The aft side of the transom is almost inaccessible and that may be why it was attached with mastic. A better fastening would be achieved if you can obtain or make a fastening like the ones used to fix things to plasterboard ...the spring loaded toggles for example. Personally, for plasterboard fastening, I prefer the die cast self tapping devices with central tapped hole but they might not work as well in grp as they do in plasterboard. The alternative is an oversized washer but I can't envisage how to get it into the cavity behind the inner transom. You might need a lozenge shaped metal plate for'ard of the start control and toggle bolted to the transom.