Stop cock maintenance

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Guest

Guest
We have a Bavaria 35 out of the water and undergoing winter maintenance. I have removed 2 of the stop cocks that drain the 2 sinks in the galley for re-greasing I am now having major problems getting them to line back up with the hose inlet at the top and the lever at the side. I removed an amount of hessian looking material from the threads when I unscrewed the cocks which I guess made a tighter seal. I have tried wrapping PTFE tape around the threads but still I cannot line them up without the being slightly loose.

Any suugestions please.
 
Hold the fitting so the threaded section points to stbd. Wind the PTFE round in a clockwise manner. (this sounds perverted!) build up few layers of PTFE at the top end of the thread, and install. It might take two or three goes to get it right. don't over do the Stilson as there is a chance that you might crack the female thread.

A dab of Fernox LS-X (aka Plumber's get out of jail free) would help. LS-X is a special sillicone that cures under water.
 
The material you are refering to is Hemp; it was the original pipe thread sealant and to people of my age still the best.

You buy it in hanks and seperate of a few strands which you then wind round the threads after having applied a paste to the metal to make the hemp stick. It's all a bit messy and PTFE tape is much better though you can end up having to apply quite a bit to the threads. When applying the PTFE tape always wrap it round so that when you screw the fitting on it rotates the same way as the PTFE tape.

Have you thought of changing to new lever operated valves? Far more reliable, seal every time and don't cost very much at all. While you've got one of the original valves off take it to a plumbers merchants and see if they cam match the length of the fitting and they'll also sort out the thread size. These valves don't need servicing having a nylon bearing inside and just an occasional operation of the valve will keep it free for years on end.

Been using them since they first came on the plumbing scene and would never go back.


Phil
 
Thanks for a useful tip. If you are buying from a plumber, is there anything to ask for or look for to make sure the valve will survive in a marine environment?
 
ASAP Supplies do "dezinctification" (their words!) resistant ball valves and they're not too expensive. Just over a fiver for a 3/4" and £18 for the 1 1/2" heads outlet.

I replaced all my gate valve seacocks with them last year and they seem OK so far.

Still have the mild steel handle to go rusty though :-(

Gavin
 
I got some in spain, with stainless handles, I'll look at the name and post it when I get back to the boat.
 
I think he already has lever operated ball valves

as they are fitted by Bavaria as standard.

It concerns me that (unless I read it wrongly) that the fittings are so loose on the threaded spigots of the skin fittings.

Steve Cronin
 
Yes, the supplies over there are good and a lot cheaper than the UK. I use Leroy Merlin or similar and was very surprised to see the amount of BSP threaded items available.

Phil
 
I think the handle is quite important as if that rusts through then there is only a small spigot on the valve body to get hold of.

I'm fairly sure that if you try someone like Plumb Centre, who aren't the cheapest to the general public, you'll buy what you got from ASAP for rather less.

A plastic insert which the ball runs round is the thing to make sure is inside the valave.

Phil
 
You'll find that virtually all over the world, plumbing fittings are BSP, I haven't seen any others, apart from the states where some are a special thread, even their they are mainly BSP.
 
Don't use cheap ball valves - the bodies are BRASS and could de-zinctify - you cabn pay a little more and get bronze/ATD/Naval brass ones which are much better in sea water.
Oh, and the steel handles WILL rust through, but there are some on the market with better handles

dickh
I'd rather be sailing... :-) /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
Handles certainly agree although they look very thick to rust through completely. I'm sure you're right about the Plumb Centre but they are generally brass fittings (even though they are plated). I went for the better ones because of things I read in Nigel Calders book about what happens to brass.

They'd better be alright cos they we're quite a bit more that the normal ones!! I think they all have the PTFE seats.

I get the impression from previous posts here that they have a limited life anyway (certainly compared to the Blakes type) and so I assume would be changed before too much happened to them.

Gavin
 
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