Stop a squeaking belt!

kennyh

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Hi all

I've got a recurring problem of a squeaky Compressor belt on my Volvo Penta D4-260.

I recently changed the idler pulleys to try and resolve the issue (as well as moving off of the plastic pulleys to the metal ones). I also replaced the belt recently.

My squeak disappeared for a short while but has now re-appeared.

I've confirmed the squeak comes from the belt (and not elsewhere on the engine) by squirting some water on the belt, where the noise immediately disappears for a few 10's of seconds. .

So how do I get rid of the squeak which is annoyingly audible at idle?

Any top tips?
 
Without hearing it -----
Belts slipping so assuming it tight or you think it's tight -then something in the system is causing excessive friction -that shouldn,t be ---
A bearing on a pulley .
Have you lubricated them ,? they rust if get soaked in seawater -bogo cast iron housings ,or a biggi the Comp bearing stiffing up or the comps internals have become harder to spin -changed the oil recently ?
 
Compressor oil was topped up - not changed.

New Idler Pulleys installed with new bearings, so shouldn't be the issue.

Squeaks are when the compressor is not engaged (at idle) so not sure if the compressor is at fault (but happy to be advised on that).
 
Has the new belt that you fitted got a cross hatched pattern on the non grooved side? The new type belts have this to stop this problem. Also has the complete spring loaded tensioner been replaced as these wear causing the pulley to not run true with the belt.
 
Where the spring loaded tensioner is constantly adjusting (by very small amounts) the bushes that the arm pivots on get worn. This causes the pulley to run out of line and try's to drag the belt across.

It's a common problem with D4 and D6 engines.
 
Where the spring loaded tensioner is constantly adjusting (by very small amounts) the bushes that the arm pivots on get worn. This causes the pulley to run out of line and try's to drag the belt across.

It's a common problem with D4 and D6 engines.

I see this fault a lot at work on the trucks, cure is new tensioner and a new belt, even if the belt is only a few weeks old otherwise the squeak will return sooner rather than later.

Ps belt spray lasts a day or two at best and its back.
 
..... belt spray lasts a day or two at best and its back.

I suppose the question should be, is the squeaking a symptom of a more serious potential problem (such as bearing failure) or is it just an annoying noise.

If belt dressing works for a day or two, could I just spray the belt each time I go out?

Or do I need to bite the bullet and spend £350+ swapping out the tensioner to prevent more serious damage?
 
I

Or do I need to bite the bullet and spend £350+ swapping out the tensioner to prevent more serious damage?
How much ? Eek
Blimmey -- a belt tensioner on a cambelted Ferrari costs £80 for the part .
We tend to change them @ belt service every 3 Y -but the consequences of a belt jumping a tooth or two are more severe.
 
Just resurrecting this thread as it looks like I have the same problem on my d4 at 460 hours.

Did you find anywhere that sells these for a decent price, the official volvo rrp is a bit eye watering, I think I'll have to do both tensioners and all idlers.

If it was just a squeak I'd put up with it for a bit,but I don't want a belt failure,so I guess I'd better get them changed.
 
Thanks, where did you buy the tensioner from?

And did you fit it yourself,and if so,did you use the volvo tool.for setting tension?
 
The Compressor belt tensioner is the one which is spring loaded. It's an "auto" tensioner. I got it from Mitchells in Glasgow and fitted it myself. There is a tool that helps unload the spring tension to get the belt off - it works OK, but I made a tool myself that does a better job.
 
Yes.

Process as follows: (from what I remember!)

- Remove main belt
--- remove belt tensioner assembly (2 bolts)
--- remove belt
- Remove Water Pump Pulley (as its blocking path of Compressor belt) - 3? Bolts
- Use special Volvo Tool (or other) to relieve tension on Compressor belt by turning spring loaded Compressor belt tensioner
- Remove Compressor belt
- Remove Compressor belt Tensioner (one bolt)
- Replace with new Compressor Tensioner
- Fit Compressor belt
- Fit Water Pump Pulley
- Fit Main Belt
- Fit Main belt tensioner
- Tension as per belt torque settings (as written on belt packaging)
Done.

It will take around 20-30 mins depending on how much swearing you will be doing trying to get the compressor belt off and on.

You'll need 2 Torque wrenches and various sockets to do the job correctly. (2 torques wrenches are need to set the manual tensioner for the main belt to the correct setting. 1 puts the pressure on the belt and the other is used to tighten the retaining bolts to the correct torque).
 
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