Stixall instead of Sikaflex 290 DC

I used this stuff recently and it seems to adhere well but it stays quite soft-I am not overly impressed with it as a marine sealant.
 
Just been having a look at the product, in force4 and jimmy green etc. it is £10+ a tube, in toolstation it is aprox £5!

I am about to use the PU40 by everbuild to bed skin fittings, I hope that it is ok for the job, I am sure it is.
 
Can anybody tell me why sealant and adhesive are so often combined in one terribly costly product?

I needed mastic for sealing jobs on board. And I needed a very powerful bonding agent for other unrelated jobs. I bought Sikaflex 291 believing it to be a glue, but in several uses it was very ineffective - naturally enough since it's not primarily an adhesive. But it wasn't great as a sealant, either.

Why would anyone who is hoping to seal eg, mechanically secured window frames or plumbing, also want to glue them?

And why would the requirement for adhesion necessarily bring with it a need for sealing? Or, is it simply that products created for one purpose, often have some of the characteristics of others?
 
Hmm, I was looking for an easy fix to SEALING new polycarbonate winows to my steel hull, but having seen this thread I will retreat and look again....there must be easier ways to throw money away than yachting?
 
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steelfloats said:
Hmm, I was looking for an easy fix to SEALING new polycarbonate winows to my steel hull, but having seen this thread I will retreat and look again....there must be easier ways to throw money away than yachting?
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Be careful when sealing polycarbonate. It can suffer stress corrosion cracking with solvent based adhesives. It's one of the very few uses for silicone sealants that I would advocate. Having said that, my windows were recently rebuilt professionally, for which they used engineering silicone but with a primer and the whole thing cooked in an oven. For the first time in years they no longer leak!
 
steelfloats said:
Hmm, I was looking for an easy fix to SEALING new polycarbonate winows to my steel hull, but having seen this thread I will retreat and look again....there must be easier ways to throw money away than yachting?
Click to expand...

Be careful when sealing polycarbonate. It can suffer stress corrosion cracking with solvent based adhesives. It's one of the very few uses for silicone sealants that I would advocate. Having said that, my windows were recently rebuilt professionally, for which they used engineering silicone but with a primer and the whole thing cooked in an oven. For the first time in years they no longer leak!
 
Used both and now I only use Stixall. I find that it has several advantages. It appears to retain its colour whereas I find Sikaflex tends to yellow slightly. Stixall has slightly lower viscosity and is easier to apply and easier to spread when pressing down a fitting. It is cheaper and much more readily available. They also make a crystal clear version which is excellent.

Clean off with Cusson's baby wipes for hands and coachwork.

Many folks here are saying that CT1 is better still as it can be applied under water which would seem to be a real advantage.
 
I have just ordered a box of 12 of Stixall. The things which have particularly attracted me to this choice are the fact that it sticks (the Sikaflex on my deck in some places is not actually stuck to the wood), there is no need to apply primer (which is a pain with the Sikaflex), and that it runs better so it should be easier to apply and get a nice clean finish.

I hope it lives up to my expectations.

I also order a Fein multimaster to help dig out the old stuff and clean the grooves.

All set for some fun!
 
michaelchapman said:
Has any body tried this?

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/stix-all

I have seen one report of it being rather good - sticking very well with no primer required, being relatively easy to apply and a lot cheaper than Sikaflex 290 DC.
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Yes. Used it when restoring / repairing washboards and giving them a "teak decking" appearance. ¼" thick "laminate" planks glued on to the prepared (¼" machined off outer surface) old washboards using epoxy and vacuum bagging. Gaps between the "planks" filled with Stixall (run masking tape round the edges first - leaves a nice straight edge after removal of the tape).
Pros - cheap, good colour (black), no need for breaker tape or sealer, does not set as hard as Sika 290 caulking
Cons - does not sand well dry - surface retains a matt finish after sanding - use a plane blade to remove excess stixall and do not, whatever else you do, get any on the wood.
 
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