Sticky Volvo Controls

MBK

MBK

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19 Mar 2016
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Hello all from a newbie!

Recently purchased my first twin Volvo Penta boat and trying to get to grips with the handling (also being larger than the previous single engined one).

Really struggling with the notchy/heavy/vague action on the combined throttle & gear controls at slow speed of the Volvo PC-840 controls.

I keep seeing slick videos of people shifting in and out of forward/neutral/reverse just using their fingertips and I'm growing biceps doing the same while shifting between gears and trying to remain composed.

Picture here of the offending articles for reference:-

http://www.volvopentashop.com/JHL/en-GB/Details/AccessoriesCatalog/2250?path=1532%2F2197%2F2250

The throttles move smoothly when the drives are disengaged so I'm assuming (but please correct me) that it must be related to the drives?

Is there any way of smoothing the transition between gears or should I look towards new controls/cables or linkages

Thanks

Mark
 
Could be a number of issues depending on type of drive and age, what drives do you have?
 
Three areas to look at:

The controls themselves. The white plastic cover pops off, exposing the innards. All moving parts should be cleaned and regreased. You'll need lots of cotton buds and kitchen towel!!

The drives. You don't say which drives you have, but generally it's unbelievably difficult to do this with the boat afloat. You'll need to take off the rear top cover to expose the selector linkage. Again, good clean and lubricate. You may find a load of fouling in here, restricting movement. While you're in there, pop off the linkage and check for smooth but positive motion of the selector arm itself.

Finally, and most likely, cables. In my 15 years of boating I've had two snap, one throttle and one gear respectively, so I now replace them every five years or so. You're looking at between £40-60 per cable, depending on length. Can be a little awkward, especially gear cable at the drive end, but usually this with cure the vagueness and will definitely give piece of mind against unexpected failures. DO NOT try and lubricate the cables - if they're stiff, replace.
 
Electronics is you friend then but expensive as a retro fit

But in the real world it does depend on the installation and adjustment if required.
Try not to force the gear change
You don't say which transmission you have but if it's outdrives they need to be taken slowly
The cable type,lengths and runs also make a big difference
There are slicker cables available and getting the length right makes a big difference
the runs should be long straight without long sweeping bends
If dual station the the additional linkages do require to be adjusted properly
 
Thanks for comments so far - sorry should have stated the drives are a pair of Volvo DPE's 2005 boat.
 
As the first point of action, took the advice of rosssavage (thanks ��) spent an hour or so during the week cleaning everything down with WD, cotton buds and kitchen towel, then liberally applying lithium grease. Starboard side linkage and cams were caked with dried old, gold grease, port no signs of any lubricant. Has improved the transition between F,N & R by maybe 30% ( only shifting while moored due to the red flags during the week).

Already planned for a full lift and service after summer of the drives, so may look at replacing the cables next (boat spent 8 years on the Solent before being moved to the Thames so salt would have taken its toll.

Boat is a Sessa 35 '05 at Bray for reference. Only my 2nd after purchasing a 27 Rinker a year ago so still have a LOT TO LEARN!
 
Good news :)

If the cables weren't replaced in the last eight years, I would definitely do them when she's lifted out. Not massively expensive, should make an immediate difference to the feel of the controls, and piece of mind against unexpected failure.

It takes a few scary seconds to realise the gear cable has snapped when you select reverse to stop, and the boat keeps pushing forward!!
 
As you now have doubts about the cables you may find that changing the outdrives cables when you are doing the other work will give you peace of mind .
There are more efficient cable on the market now but watch that'33c supreme cable will have too large an outer to let you use them
 
My throttle cable broke whilst exiting Molesey lock a couple of years ago. I was rather concerned when the Boat wouldn't steer properly, so moored up at Hampton Court and called DB Marine who couriered a new one to me within two hours, while I removed the old one, and lubricated the old cables.

As a result the throttle/Gear operation is now both miles better, and equal on both sides, so i suspect the other cable will now last longer than it would have done!

You can make a plasticine funnel for the top of the cable, and pour in a little oil while working the throttle, it soon soaks down...
 
A 2005 boat and original cables absolutely needs changing and while you are doing it get the most low friction ones you can get, makes a huge difference on longer lengths and if thight bends. You need to lift to chance the gear cables at which point the gear shifter is easy to check.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far - looking forward to getting out on the river now that the cleaning and greasing has eased the controls and then will replace both cables at the end of the season when the boat is lifted out.
 
On my old Targa - the Volvo Controls used to be quite stiff - I upgraded the controls to 'Morse' and never had any more trouble, nice and smooth. The Volvo controls I've used over the years have never been that smooth (not unusable, just never smooth). The Morse controls have a smaller foot print so you may need a plate underneath. Apart from that, straight swap. Personal choice though, some folk prefer to keep it standard.
 
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