stern cabin entrance floor. adding a flat floor so no longer standing on the hull

UK-WOOZY said:
erhmmm huh?
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I'm just thinking that the bed isn't very high, so if you follow your proposal getting up in the morning is going to feel like you're almost sleeping on the floor. The slope of the floor will be much greater than you currently have to deal with. If you're definitely going ahead I'd either follow @Concerto's idea and do it in two pieces, or make it very much smaller (something like where your blue line is) and make it level from side to side, even if it has to rise slightly as it goes aft. Most builders do it by setting the forward edge at the same height as the saloon floor and then sometimes let it rise slightly to maximise width at the back.
 
penfold said:
Just thinking about the cost of Robbins teak&holly faced ply is likely to bring most of PBO out in a cold sweat.
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My floors are 40 years old and original from 1980, so the cost at Robbins does not frighten me. Last year I stripped all the floors back to bare wood and refinished with a water based sports hall flooring varnish. Currently relacquering all the interior woodwork after being stripped back to bare wood.
 
anoccasionalyachtsman said:
I'm just thinking that the bed isn't very high, so if you follow your proposal getting up in the morning is going to feel like you're almost sleeping on the floor. The slope of the floor will be much greater than you currently have to deal with. If you're definitely going ahead I'd either follow @Concerto's idea and do it in two pieces, or make it very much smaller (something like where your blue line is) and make it level from side to side, even if it has to rise slightly as it goes aft. Most builders do it by setting the forward edge at the same height as the saloon floor and then sometimes let it rise slightly to maximise width at the back.
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itll be a similar height to the cabin sole, about the height the previous carpet trim glue residue is visible on my pics
 
I did exactly what Concerto has done, I had a section of Robins holly and teak laminate (looks like he has the real deal) left over and epoxied that to the 12mm ply so the pattern matched. I left the carpet in and simply cut out a square in it in approximately the right place for my "post" so the curved edge following the hull is actually resting on the carpet. The floor height in the forward cabin is slightly higher than the saloon, but you have to step over bulkhead anyway so i did not see that as a big deal. I have done this over lockdown so cannot comment on it in actual use, but it will probably vibrate when using the engine, but who cares as I'm normally driving so I do not see it as a big deal. If for some reason it annoys me (highly unlikely) then some adhesive backed draught excluder will go on the bearers and I may screw it down. Will I epoxy the post in? Not a chance, the body filler is more than strong enough in my experience, I've used it many times and nothing has ever fallen off or down, if it was structural I would use epoxy, but this is just a support.
 
UK-WOOZY said:
so, had my hull repaired last year after sandblasting and found a crack in the hull below the waterline in the stern cabin entrance. was suggested by the man who did the repair from West Systems that i make a flat floor to stand on instead of standing on the curve of the hull. i then bought some 12mm thick marine ply, and have epoxied it both sides with 3 layers to protect it. so am looking at starting to install it this weekend. I assume i can just use some hardwood battens around the sides of the existing bulkhead and engine bay wood to support the floor or do i need to add a support on the hull too? thanks in advance

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Very shiny, be careful that it does not become slippery when wet.
 
So here is the floor I'll use roughly the height I want it, need to cut out a corner for the trunking. For the middle support what is the best way to get the hull contour, I thought maybe use a trunking lid to get the curve?

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also the forums server is low on space, as unable to upload images direct to it or paste into the forum, linked only!
 
Very similar indeed to the setup in both our aft cabins. The battens on the three sides hold it just fine. All our floorboards are 18mm - not that I think that’d make much difference. Definitely better than standing on the hull! Perhaps just ensure there are serviceable limber holes in case any condensation collects under there unnoticed.

The exposed/curved area on ours is currently bare GRP. I do like the angled wood ‘look’ - although I think they’ll end up with a piece of van carpet or similar for simplicity.
 
Is the implication that the hull cracked due to people walking on it?
From that point of view, adding a wooden post to the middle of the new piece of cabin sole is not really a great Idea, it will point-load the hull much worse than walking on it.
If the ply flexes too much, a stiffening rib or two on the underside will be quite effective.
 
I think that a flat section of floor would give a nice finish to the cabin. I would want to avoid putting another load point on the hull and probably add stiffening battens edge-on under the board, and probably arrange to have these supported at each end. Our aft-cabin has a flat and a curved part in its small floor. Each part is carpeted. Like all our carpets, the edges are bound, which gives a tidy appearance. The binding was done by a local carpeter and cost very little.
 
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