Sterling smart charger

30boat

30boat

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I have a Sterling smart charger in my cupboard that I bought many years ago and never came round to fitting.It means taking the alternator apart and frankly I got lazy.Is there any real advantage in having one?I worriy that the already overloaded alternator belt on my Beta 20 will shed even more dust with the added loads.
 
That's a good point. I sometimes monitor the current being generated via my Sterling when batteries are fairly low first thing in the morning. No real attempt to match the curve with what it is supposed to deliver but I suspect it is pretty close. I see 50 amps for 10 minutes or more, then a slow reduction over nearly an hour until float kicks in. I assume that without the Sterling the current would decline far more rapidly. If your batteries cope with your requirements and last for a reasonable time you can probably continue as you are without adding to any belt problems you have.
 
I added a Sterling smart alternator regulator to my Beta 16 this year as I was killing batteries more quickly than I thought reasonable. I attributed this to never fully recharging; there was not the space to add a second battery which would probably also have solved the issue, so I went down the smart regulator route. I have not noticed any increase in the belt wear or black dust production and the increase in charging voltage to 14.8 is certainly having the desired effect. However, I should add that at the same time I also increased the ventilation in the alternator area by mounting a computer cooling fan (blowing in) in the engine box adjacent to the alternator and wired in to the ignition switch. Something similar to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-Pavili..._Case_Fans&hash=item460588e9f8#ht_1792wt_1399
 
cindersailor said:
I added a Sterling smart alternator regulator to my Beta 16 this year as I was killing batteries more quickly than I thought reasonable. I attributed this to never fully recharging; there was not the space to add a second battery which would probably also have solved the issue, so I went down the smart regulator route. I have not noticed any increase in the belt wear or black dust production and the increase in charging voltage to 14.8 is certainly having the desired effect. However, I should add that at the same time I also increased the ventilation in the alternator area by mounting a computer cooling fan (blowing in) in the engine box adjacent to the alternator and wired in to the ignition switch. Something similar to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-Pavili..._Case_Fans&hash=item460588e9f8#ht_1792wt_1399
Click to expand...
The instructions for my unit say that electrolyte level must be monitored frequently beacause of the superior charging.Do you do that on your batteries?
 
I installed a Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger some year's back (like this)
AB1290_ProBat_alt-to-batt_charger_12v_90amp.jpg


We did two changes after each other - interesting observations.

First we replaced the batteries with new VRLA deep cycle batteries (sealed) -one of the important characteristics of these is low internal resistance while charging giving faster charging.

We noticed that we got better charging amps than we had before - but not as good as we expected.

Then we installed the Alternator to Battery Charger, with a similar discharge of the batteries we noticed significant improvement in charging amps and charging time.

All measurements done with the same battery monitor.
 
I think on balance if OP has a smart regulator (not to be confused with smart charger) then he should fit it. Yes it will require removal of the alternator to fit the necessary connections for the new external regulator. Yes the alternator will work harder although in a long engine run after batteries are charged the current should drop back so wear on belt will be less then. In other words the alternator has to recharge the batteries with a finite amount of power which might equal finite belt wear. With the smart regulator current hence wear will be greater at first then reduce. What OP will get is more charge into the batteries for a shorter engine run time. but probably will wear the belt more in practice.
If belt wear is a concern then a little resistance in the wiring to the battery might reduce max charge current. You would need an ampmeter to confirm but a thinner wire might just provide the resistance that will limit the high charge current while mostly maintaining the advantages of the smart charger. Or Op could try a larger pulley on the alternator but this will reduce the speed so reduce charge potential at low engine speed. Or consider different type of belt.
Or just refer to the old adage "If it ain't broke don't fix it" good luck olewill
 
30boat said:
The instructions for my unit say that electrolyte level must be monitored frequently beacause of the superior charging.Do you do that on your batteries?
Click to expand...

When I had open cell batteries I was adding significant volumes of deionised water during the season. I now have sealed batteries, with the appropriate setting on the Sterling. The batteries are in their third season now and seem to be doing well.
 
knuterikt said:
I installed a Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger some year's back (like this)
AB1290_ProBat_alt-to-batt_charger_12v_90amp.jpg


We did two changes after each other - interesting observations.

First we replaced the batteries with new VRLA deep cycle batteries (sealed) -one of the important characteristics of these is low internal resistance while charging giving faster charging.

We noticed that we got better charging amps than we had before - but not as good as we expected.

Then we installed the Alternator to Battery Charger, with a similar discharge of the batteries we noticed significant improvement in charging amps and charging time.

All measurements done with the same battery monitor.
Click to expand...

Might be worth selling your smart regulator and buying one of these instead. No alternator mods required, and the difference in charging is stunning.

I fitted one after having problems getting my house bank charged, and I reckon it's the best money I've spent on the boat in the last few years.
 
30boat said:
The instructions for my unit say that electrolyte level must be monitored frequently beacause of the superior charging.Do you do that on your batteries?
Click to expand...

I have open batteries and have monitored the electrolyte levels this season, but have yet to see any gassing (even when charging at 14.8 V) or needed to top up. Will continue to check periodically however.
 
William_H said:
I think on balance if OP has a smart regulator (not to be confused with smart charger) then he should fit it. Yes it will require removal of the alternator to fit the necessary connections for the new external regulator. Yes the alternator will work harder although in a long engine run after batteries are charged the current should drop back so wear on belt will be less then. In other words the alternator has to recharge the batteries with a finite amount of power which might equal finite belt wear. With the smart regulator current hence wear will be greater at first then reduce. What OP will get is more charge into the batteries for a shorter engine run time. but probably will wear the belt more in practice.
If belt wear is a concern then a little resistance in the wiring to the battery might reduce max charge current. You would need an ampmeter to confirm but a thinner wire might just provide the resistance that will limit the high charge current while mostly maintaining the advantages of the smart charger. Or Op could try a larger pulley on the alternator but this will reduce the speed so reduce charge potential at low engine speed. Or consider different type of belt.
Or just refer to the old adage "If it ain't broke don't fix it" good luck olewill
Click to expand...

I would suggest that this is an approach which needs to be used with caution as it relies on a voltage drop between the alternator and battery induced by a wire which is smaller than would normally be recommended. It would need to be carefully established that the resulting heat generated in the wire would not result in unwanted consequenses! The Sterling regulators enable three different settings for the boost charging voltage so perhaps better to use this facility.
 
To the OP:

I have found this link
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125392
very useful reading when it comes to the benefits of external and "smart" regulators. Deals with many of the misconceptions, also present in this thread, I think.

My understanding from reading it is this: Strain on the alternator, and belt, will be at its greatest when the current is high, that is during the beginning of the bulk phase. Regulation will not be present here, because the voltage is too low. So a dumb or smart regulator will make no difference.
What smart regulators do is extending the bulk phase, as the set voltage point is higher. But at this stage the current will be much lower, not straining the alternator so much.

The solution to belt dust is probably the get the micro-vee upgrade. I have the same engine as you, seven years/375 hrs on the first belt and no dust.
 
BabaYaga said:
To the OP:

I have found this link
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125392
very useful reading when it comes to the benefits of external and "smart" regulators. Deals with many of the misconceptions, also present in this thread, I think.

My understanding from reading it is this: Strain on the alternator, and belt, will be at its greatest when the current is high, that is during the beginning of the bulk phase. Regulation will not be present here, because the voltage is too low. So a dumb or smart regulator will make no difference.
What smart regulators do is extending the bulk phase, as the set voltage point is higher. But at this stage the current will be much lower, not straining the alternator so much.

The solution to belt dust is probably the get the micro-vee upgrade. I have the same engine as you, seven years/375 hrs on the first belt and no dust.
Click to expand...

an alternator with NO ext regulator will only put out a high amperage for a very short time before it drops the charge rate considerably
 
BabaYaga said:
To the OP:

I have found this link
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=125392
very useful reading when it comes to the benefits of external and "smart" regulators. Deals with many of the misconceptions, also present in this thread, I think.

My understanding from reading it is this: Strain on the alternator, and belt, will be at its greatest when the current is high, that is during the beginning of the bulk phase. Regulation will not be present here, because the voltage is too low. So a dumb or smart regulator will make no difference.
What smart regulators do is extending the bulk phase, as the set voltage point is higher. But at this stage the current will be much lower, not straining the alternator so much.

The solution to belt dust is probably the get the micro-vee upgrade. I have the same engine as you, seven years/375 hrs on the first belt and no dust.
Click to expand...
Great reading thanks.It basically says that my(early) Stirling smart regulator is c rap because it charges at 15V which reduces battery life and needs constant topping up.The 14.4V regulators are much kinder.Also that a dumb regulator is perfectly enough for a sailing boat that uses the engine for relatively little time.I won't be using it.I'll put the Stirling Smart Regulator on the for sale section.Maybe somebody will find a use for it.
 
On all of the Sterling regs I set mine to sealed position (Mine are open wet cells) and have only needed to top up once in four years. average battery life is around 7 years, even with the hammering the domestic gets with fridge on all the time on long weekends, so for me i find his product does what is says.
 
pampas said:
On all of the Sterling regs I set mine to sealed position (Mine are open wet cells) and have only needed to top up once in four years. average battery life is around 7 years, even with the hammering the domestic gets with fridge on all the time on long weekends, so for me i find his product does what is says.
Click to expand...
Mine is not adjustable,only the more recent models are.
 
BabaYaga said:
Could you please explain why that is (assuming we are dealing with fairly well discharged batteries)?
Click to expand...

Even for a well discharged battery the terminal voltage under charge will rise quite rapidly from perhaps near 11v to a higher voltage which we might call the inherent voltage of the battery (from the charge state). The actual voltage at the terminal will be close to the regulated voltage of the alternator 14v. The difference between this charge voltage and the inherent voltage of the battery results in current flow into the battery. If the rise in inherent voltage was linear to battery charge then the current in would fall in a linear manner. In fact the inherent voltage rises more rapidly than than charge % so fall of charge current is more rapid.
This means that it takes a lot of charge time to get the last bit of charge in so many batteries don't get fully recharged.

Quote OP ".Also that a dumb regulator is perfectly enough for a sailing boat that uses the engine for relatively little time"

No the smart regulator is most beneficial on boats where engine time run is short as generally it can get more charge into the battery for the short run. More so for reasonably charged batteries while a really flat battery over a short period will get similar current with both types of regulator. ie not much % of charge in short time. The smart regulator boosts the charge voltage and current to maintain a higher charge current when the charge current would taper off usually after short time.
good luck olewill
 
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