Sterling advanced regulator

Sarnia said:
In addition to the alternator you recommended is this second one, the 12v90 whos fittings look more compatable.
PREST110-603 Prestolite 12v/90A S/ Pulley Single Lug (IR) 110-603
PREST12V90 Prestolite 12v/90A S/Pulley S/L Bosch Type 20150113

Would welcome your comments
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The alternator you mentioned from parts4engines had a 1" mounting foot, and I assumed that's what you needed for your engine, which is why I suggested the 110-603, which also has a 1" foot. The 20150113 alternator which you say looks more compatible has a 2" foot, and doesn't have an adjustable regulator. I think you need some help in choosing - why not phone Adverc, tell them exactly which engine you have, and ask for their recommendations? I'd certainly suggest you try to get an adjustable regulator, as this will enable you to optimise charging without messing about with an external regulator.
 
pvb said:
The alternator you mentioned from parts4engines had a 1" mounting foot, and I assumed that's what you needed for your engine, which is why I suggested the 110-603, which also has a 1" foot. The 20150113 alternator which you say looks more compatible has a 2" foot, and doesn't have an adjustable regulator. I think you need some help in choosing - why not phone Adverc, tell them exactly which engine you have, and ask for their recommendations? I'd certainly suggest you try to get an adjustable regulator, as this will enable you to optimise charging without messing about with an external regulator.
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It was the 2" foot which attracted me to the other one, along with it having 64mm pulley as against an 83mm one on the 70amp from parts4engines, (the smaller pulley would give me more alternator revs. for the same engine speed) although it is not a deciding factor as my existing has spacers to accomadate the foot size (I cannot recall what it is but the U bracket it fastens to 80mm just over 3") Quite where the info as to regulator adjustment is on the site I have not found yet.
You are quite correct I do need help, and I have certainly found it here, the generosity of forumites never fails, and I will ring adverc as you suggested, and raise other points with them as to what size pulley comes with it as non shown on the diagram of the 110-603, and also as mine is negative to earth, are theirs the same as some are earth insulated, quite why I do not know.
 
Sarnia said:
Quite where the info as to regulator adjustment is on the site I have not found yet.
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If you look at the Prestolite data sheets, you'll see they say whether or not the regulator is adjustable. Google "prestolite" and the model number to find the data sheet.

Pulleys are easily swapped, just ask for the size you need.
 
pvb said:
If you look at the Prestolite data sheets, you'll see they say whether or not the regulator is adjustable. Google "prestolite" and the model number to find the data sheet.

Pulleys are easily swapped, just ask for the size you need.
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I have spoken with adverc, they claim their alternators do not have adjustable regulators, as they make external ones, the man I spoke with was going to check and send me info. from prestolite as their expert there is on holiday. The smallest pulley they fit on the 110-603 is 70mm, will keep you informed.
 
Sarnia said:
Olewill and Ric, looking for an amp-hour counter, makes sense and sounds like something I need, thank you.
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Actually I was advocating just an amp meter. Sure amp hours would be useful but far more expensive than just a cheap chines digital amp meter say 0 to 50 amps or perhaps 0 to 20 amps would suffice. If you are getting more than 20 amps into your battery you are doing well. olewill
 
Sarnia said:
I have spoken with adverc, they claim their alternators do not have adjustable regulators, as they make external ones, the man I spoke with was going to check and send me info. from prestolite as their expert there is on holiday.
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Sounds like he doesn't know his products!
 
William_H said:
Actually I was advocating just an amp meter. Sure amp hours would be useful but far more expensive than just a cheap chines digital amp meter say 0 to 50 amps or perhaps 0 to 20 amps would suffice. If you are getting more than 20 amps into your battery you are doing well. olewill
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I do have a B1 Nasa battery conditioner, shows quite a lot on there, is that the sort of thing you are refering to.
 
Sarnia said:
Google also found this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Alt...3860665-26920-8MR2070TA-110-603-/271311109205

The sales blurb says Yes it is adjustable, so maybe he needs to learn his porducts.
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Just had a reply from him by email:
'I can confirm for definite that the 20150113 does not have any internal regulator adjustment. I have spoken to the technical department at Prestolite and their initial reaction was that the 110-603 does not also have any internal regulator adjustment however there does appear to be some question of doubt which they are going to address with the US and come back to me'.

The lad is trying.
One other point concerns me, my existing is negatively earthed, both by the bolting to the frame and an earth connection from the casing, if the 110-603 is negatively insulated (a point not yet answered by adverc) is it still possible for me to use it, and if so what mods would I need to make.
 
You can use an insulated return alternator by simply wiring the negative terminal to the engine block, or other convenient earth connection.
 
I've fitted two sterling pro digital regulators now to both my boats and they make a noticable difference. On my most recent install I also fitted the Sterling 0v splitter which works like a splitter diode but has no voltage drop and also doesn't over charge the starter battery. I recommend you look into this.
I also recommend talking to http://alternator-startermotor.co.uk/ who will supply you with a greatly upgraded alternator for your engine when you tell them what your current unit is (tell them you're using a sterling external regulator and they'll even solder the extra wire on to the field brush for you.
Use fat cable and good quality tinned copper connectors.

No Connection to either company except as a customer.
 
Sarnia said:
I do have a B1 Nasa battery conditioner, shows quite a lot on there, is that the sort of thing you are refering to.
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Probably the B1 will do what you want. Essentially when you start an engine and begin to charge the battery (s) with the alternator the alternator tries to regulate the voltage at the battery terminals to around 14v. This means that the initial charge assuming a somewhat discharged battery will be high. The curent may be limited by the engine revs or the alternator capability. Typically the OP might get 20 amps going into the battery. 30amp alternator at reasonable engine revs. If this continued at 20 amps and you had 100 amp hour batteries around 50 % discharged then 5 hrs running should recharge. However this does not happen.
The current taken by the batteries will diminish with time. The battery inherent voltage rises to nearer that of the regulated charge voltage so charge current falls. Now this is really dismaying if you are running the engine just to recharge the batteries. At least if you monitor the charge current you can decide when the engine run is not giving a worthwhile charge so just stop the engine. The amount of charge current can be enhanced by having larger battery (bank) but then you will probably not have discharged the battery(s) so much anyway.
The smart charger regulator will increase this charge voltage so increasing charge current so potentially reducing your engine charging run time. A higher charge regulated voltage will also help but this can not be increased without the rsik of overcharge of the batteries on a long engine run on voyage. The smart charger will decide when batteries are charged and reduce the regulated voltage.
So just monitoring charge current can be very useful and may indicate that a smart charge regulator would be worth buying. However remember that the charge current is still limited by the charge capbility of the alternator at the engine run revs and even at high revs may be limited buy the current rating of the alternator.
Which all brings me back to the first point that carefully monitoring of charge curreent in your typical usage pattern might indicate a smart regulator and or bigger alternator are indicated or may indicate both would be a waste. good luck olewill
 
pvb said:
You can use an insulated return alternator by simply wiring the negative terminal to the engine block, or other convenient earth connection.
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Your advice confirms that of tech support from Adverc, in addition, they confirm, following the link I also sent to them showing the characteristics of the 110-603, that it does have an adjustable regulator, don't wish to be to critical but we seem to be reading their products blurb more closely that they did.
 
G12 said:
I've fitted two sterling pro digital regulators now to both my boats and they make a noticable difference. On my most recent install I also fitted the Sterling 0v splitter which works like a splitter diode but has no voltage drop and also doesn't over charge the starter battery. I recommend you look into this.
I also recommend talking to http://alternator-startermotor.co.uk/ who will supply you with a greatly upgraded alternator for your engine when you tell them what your current unit is (tell them you're using a sterling external regulator and they'll even solder the extra wire on to the field brush for you.
Use fat cable and good quality tinned copper connectors.

No Connection to either company except as a customer.
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I shall be following up the recommendations you make, thank you, but as you will see in previous contributions on this thread, with a new alternator giving 14.4 v. is an external regulator a necessary addition to the alternator, or am i missing something.
 
William_H said:
Probably the B1 will do what you want. Essentially when you start an engine and begin to charge the battery (s) with the alternator the alternator tries to regulate the voltage at the battery terminals to around 14v. This means that the initial charge assuming a somewhat discharged battery will be high. The curent may be limited by the engine revs or the alternator capability. Typically the OP might get 20 amps going into the battery. 30amp alternator at reasonable engine revs. If this continued at 20 amps and you had 100 amp hour batteries around 50 % discharged then 5 hrs running should recharge. However this does not happen.
The current taken by the batteries will diminish with time. The battery inherent voltage rises to nearer that of the regulated charge voltage so charge current falls. Now this is really dismaying if you are running the engine just to recharge the batteries. At least if you monitor the charge current you can decide when the engine run is not giving a worthwhile charge so just stop the engine. The amount of charge current can be enhanced by having larger battery (bank) but then you will probably not have discharged the battery(s) so much anyway.
The smart charger regulator will increase this charge voltage so increasing charge current so potentially reducing your engine charging run time. A higher charge regulated voltage will also help but this can not be increased without the rsik of overcharge of the batteries on a long engine run on voyage. The smart charger will decide when batteries are charged and reduce the regulated voltage.
So just monitoring charge current can be very useful and may indicate that a smart charge regulator would be worth buying. However remember that the charge current is still limited by the charge capbility of the alternator at the engine run revs and even at high revs may be limited buy the current rating of the alternator.
Which all brings me back to the first point that carefully monitoring of charge curreent in your typical usage pattern might indicate a smart regulator and or bigger alternator are indicated or may indicate both would be a waste. good luck olewill
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Your contribution rhymes with what others here have recommended, and I am now actively looking to install a Prestolite 90amp alternator, which has an adjustable regulator, or suitable alternativeas my current 30 amp is certainly not man enough for my bank, to which I am also planning additional amp/h.

My Nasa B1 gives me lots of information, which has caused me to question my installation and how I can improve it, as always this forum seems to be the best source to do that, for which we all give thanks.
 
Sarnia said:
.......with a new alternator giving 14.4 v. is an external regulator a necessary addition to the alternator, or am i missing something.
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Boats with a more modern 14.2-14.4 volt alternator with a built-in regulator will also have a simple temperature sensor which will soon drop the output voltage down well below the 14.4v gassing voltage of the batteries - it thinks the battery is close to it in the engine compartment. This shouldn't happen on a boat - batteries should be well away from the engine compartment, so they will see a lower voltage than they need once the alternator has warmed up, and so may be undercharged.

There are many other very good reasons why you should fit an external regulator:

1. A good external regulator will be a multi-stage device that can raise the alternator output voltage even higher and charge the battery faster, and reduce the output to a Float voltage when the battery is fully charged to prolong the battery life.


2. It should have settings for different battery types, but it should also be programmable to match the alternator and battery bank sizes. Balmar's regulators allow many parameters to be changed, for example they may set the Boost voltage to 14.6, hold that for 45 minutes and then reduce it to 14.4 for the duration of the absorption stage. They can be programmed to stay longer in the absorption stage without dropping down to float too early.


It is worth noting that with sealed batteries most battery manufacturers recommend that you use a multi-stage regulator to drop the charge down to float mode at 13.2-13.8 volts to avoid gassing and overcharging. This is a condition of the warranty on some batteries.


3. It will delay the charge current for about a minute at start up until the engine oil is well distributed. A 100 amp alternator draws 4 HP which is a heavy load on an engine when starting with a weak battery.


4. It will also accept a sensor to measure the alternator temperature and control the charge rate. Even a 100 amp alternator could be providing 15 amps to the boat systems, another 25 amps to say a watermaker or an inverter, and then a heavily discharged bank may be demanding 50 or 60 amps. In this situation the batteries may not get charged and the alternator will burn out from continually trying to deliver its maximum output if not protected by a temperature sensor. It is often too easy for the alternator on a boat to get too hot if used for long periods.


5. It will also accept a sensor to measure the battery temperature which will rise with a heavy charge current. At 25ºC batteries start to gas at 14.4v, at 40ºC they gas at 14v so the external regulator will reduce the charging voltage automatically to compensate for this. If batteries are fitted in an engine compartment it is very easy for them to get too hot and lose water. This is fatal for sealed batteries. Sailing in high temperature regions may mean the batteries are already at 35C before charging starts.


6. It will have a voltage sensor at the battery not on the alternator. This will compensate for split diodes or losses on cable runs to the battery.


7. A Balmar regulator has a “small engine mode” that allows you to cut the output to 50% with a switch to reduce the alternator load on the engine when you suddenly need extra power in a big sea. It also has belt manager to reduce the load on the alternator. A 100 amp alternator set to 70% will run cooler and produce 70 amps at a lower speed.


Have i I missed something???
 
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sailinglegend420 said:
1. A good external regulator will be a multi-stage device that can raise the alternator output voltage even higher and charge the battery faster, and reduce the output to a Float voltage when the battery is fully charged to prolong the battery life.
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Whilst this is true, it's important to note that the Sterling add-on regulator which the OP first mentioned cannot drop the voltage to float level unless the alternator's internal regulator is removed or disabled. This of course negates the fail-safe mode, and it might not be wise to do this with a Sterling device. To achieve what you have suggested would involve the OP spending more to get a decent external regulator such as the Balmar you mentioned.
 
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