Steering wheels

dj43

dj43

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Hi all
Thinking of changing helm steering wheels on our squadron 52, one we have seen fits a 3/4 inch tapered shaft with 1 inch per ft taper ,made by Magellano, any one no if this would fit, or can you re use existing centre boss.
Thanks for any advice.
 
How does your current wheel attaché to the boss? Are there a number of Allen screws around the boss? If yes, you should be looking for another wheel that will attach the same way.
 
dj43 said:
Hi all
Thinking of changing helm steering wheels on our squadron 52, one we have seen fits a 3/4 inch tapered shaft with 1 inch per ft taper ,made by Magellano, any one no if this would fit, or can you re use existing centre boss.
Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...

I replaced a Princess steering wheel with an off the shelf Isotta wheel, and it fitted straight on with no mods, which suggests to me that steering wheels have a standard fitting.
 
My fly bridge wheel was original and wood but split with moisture over The years.

I replaced it with a Volvo Penta wheel with a plastic rim.

They do a nice selection of plastic, mahogany and light wood wheels, look at Volvo Penta accessories .
 
Most use 6 countersunk bolts to fit the wheel to the hub ( "Momo" symmetrical spacing). There are exceptions though, as I found when I bought a Victor wheel; that has a 5 bolt symmetrical spacing, the same PCD as the original Momo spacing . I redrilled the wheel (some of the holes overlap a little though so I had to use metal filler on some of the original holes. My boat has a splined shaft, so I could easily adjust the hub position on the steering shaft so the wheel would line up properly; on a tapered/ keyway set up, not so easy ! It's be easy to make up a 10mm spacer ring as an adapter.
 
GrahamHR said:
Most use 6 countersunk bolts to fit the wheel to the hub ( "Momo" symmetrical spacing). There are exceptions though, as I found when I bought a Victor wheel; that has a 5 bolt symmetrical spacing, the same PCD as the original Momo spacing . I redrilled the wheel (some of the holes overlap a little though so I had to use metal filler on some of the original holes. My boat has a splined shaft, so I could easily adjust the hub position on the steering shaft so the wheel would line up properly; on a tapered/ keyway set up, not so easy ! It's be easy to make up a 10mm spacer ring as an adapter.
Click to expand...

You will find that a new wheel will come with its own hub to suit the wheel, there's no point half doing the job.
 
"Half doing the job" ; what does that mean? My "Victor" marine wheel, which is apparently not a low end product didn't come with a hub ! There's no way a hub would have fitted in the (original) box the wheel came in, it was just too shallow. The original hub was perfectly fine, there was no need to change it ( unless I wanted to spend money unnecessarily, that is).

If the original hub matches the replacement wheel, then it's a damn sight easier just unbolting the wheel/ bolting on the new one than it is to remove a corroded aluminium hub off a a tapered steel shaft when the overall assembly has been exposed for a number of years to saltwater; probably with no grease from new !
 
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