Steering outboard?

alangt

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3 Jan 2006
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Has anyone fitted up a bracket/linkage from the rudder to turn the outboard in the same direction? You know the problem tight berth NO steerage in astern.
Once finished will disconnect from rudder.
 
A lot of cats with a single outboard have this rig fitted permanently. great for manoeuvring in harbour, but if you still use this when motoring against waves/wind, it will effectively reduce the drive.

My solution was to fit a seperate steering system for the outboard (standard bowden cable and fitted through the pivot tube), and rather than have another steering wheel, I have fitted a short arm to it. works very well.
 
Most engine makers have what some call a hi-thrust prop, which provides more than double as much stern power as a normal outboard prop.
 
That would be more than handy! i have been looking for a "crusing" prop but no one seemed to know of one?

Now ill try a hi-thrust.I havent asked beyond the chandlers as was afraid i couldent aford one but as my finances improve my search will improve as well!(i hope)! Thanks for the name

i dident buy a olympus 5.0meg pix camera with underwater housing either for £125??Should i have done?

I saw a fuji(underwater camer from the 80s!) for £2 a girl was selling it for 5 euros as she dident use film any more!!I dident buy that either i wonder what i should buy??
 
I found a piece of large reinforced rubber hose that jambs over the throttle handle of my old Johnson6. This is especially usefull with the motor on the transom bracket when it is adjusted low. It also conveniently lodges between a pushpit pole and the antenna to hold it straight forward. I find it fairly easy to turn both rudder and O/B when I need it for manouvering.
As for high thrust prop (fine pitch) be aware that it will require higher engine RPM for same boat speed hence more noise. I find standard prop is good certainly for calm conditions. High thrust would be good against a strong wind. (no help against tide though).
As for hitting things. The secret is to stop the boat completely then proceed slowly forward. If you rely on slowing down, your senses tend to think you are going a lot slower than you really are. Hence you find reverse thrust inadequate. good luck olewill
 
I havent a problem at sea nor in habour.The difficulty was leaveing the med before i had no money left!At 120 euros ($140) a night from april to sepember and still more clamering for those summer places than there are.I become a refugee packing my lines and anchor to move to the fresh open atlantic!

To leave the med from the French coast there are three ways one via Gib and the portuges atlantic coast! The other by one of two canals,i sat in port saint Louis for two weeks watching the river flood past i couldents see how i would ever get up that!I even called a trailor firm but they never got back to me as my boat wasent expensive enough,their charges as ive since found out would have been more than the value of my boat to move me from there to say Lyon!!!

The other canal the canal du midi was still closed in parts i was told so i enjoyed myself waiting as there are some great places to visit and French public transports really not expensive if you take the offers!

Im rambling again!!The problem was getting into a locks!The other boats would power in and be tied up while i was very very slowly on the way!Which caused some to be a bit impatent.

The other way was to power in and give full revers in which case i had to lay on the engin to stop it freeing itself and rideing up!!(sometimes)and then find i was laying across the lock!Or crashed alongside useualy a canal boat with lots of rubber defence but still getting bad coments!And in one case hitting the lock gate as i missed the ladder or bollards locks were really a nightmare for me.And how i longed to motor in hit reverse letting my prop wash bring me exactly alongside the chosen place quickly and efficently!

Its also my fault as well as i just cant get the hang of manovering with it!In port i dread the fule bearth where theres already another boat!and why i walk to it with a can!!entering a berths far easier,i go in put the engin into nutral slow it down then either pick up the strn bouy or line or run forward jump ashore and fend off.

I wish every port had either and anchorage or bouys!Thats sooo easy sailing in droping the anchoror getting a line on the bouy im quite good at that to!!but anything needing the engin other than leaving port well!!I will definatly look for a new prop which im ment to be doing now!!!!
 
I bought mine direct from Yamaha UK (abt 17 years ago) - just explain that you are looking for greatly increased stern ower and to be able to push a sail boat, and they will either have it or know if it can be got from japan. Wont be cheap as prices for new props are silly.
 
I made a start and found this http://www.steeldevelopments.com/toc.html

They have such props for £76 but only for 8hp minimum.I have a 6hp Jhonson 8hp evenrude and a 4hp(newish) tohatsu.As my 8hp is only worth £20 (i was offered )im now looking at a new motor with a hi-thrust prop! at about £340??

My motor of choise has always been the 6hp jhonson which im useing now.I will think about a new motor then a 4hp with the prop included (£340) or a 4 stroke???So far i only found a 5hp for £680 the same 2 stroke cost£840????Again from http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/broker/EML001/8

If i had lots of money---------
 
It "looks" the same as i have on the tohatsu?? That dosent stop either.

I suspect there may be a difference?I would never have thought the exhaust would have spoilt the forward flow?

Perhaps the answers a 2.5hp faceing the other way with electric dyna start!Thing is both would be off center!!Perhaps the answer is never to go into a port!
 
I had one of these on a 30 hp yamaha. The difference in stern power between that nad a normal prop was dramatic. One worked, the other didnt.
 
i wonder if a dolphin inboard would be easier?Progressing i could install a small fishingboat inboard the guy couch are thrown away becouse there petrol but very small and very reliable.

Like farmers the fishermen think diesels are less costly to run,but a couch is far more reliable and ecomomic!And there is the sail!!!Outboards though are the most practical never a worry about fittings and the shaft and if anything gets caught on the prop just lift it up.

Ill think about the £70 prop but i want to try one first!I havent been diveing with a dive boat for a long time and ive never dived in the atlantic only the med or lakes!I will have to find a diveing center and talk to them!

A 30hp will be far more responsive than a 6hp!
 
Your thread seems to have been hijacked by Trouville and Talbot but to answer you original question the answer is yes and the following diagram was published many years ago by the SWOA. I wont reproduce the text becase it relates specificaaly to the SW and a Chrysler O/B. If the two radii marked A are the same the O/B will turn through the the same angle as each other.
664b81af.jpg
 
great, but that still doesn't solve the gears control issue.
rubber arms would be handy - 2 pairs at that !.

john of the lough.
 
You did not ask about gears just about linking o/b and rudder. Most/ many/some o/b will accept remote controls (the gear lever on my evinrude will) so you could fit those as well, at a price, and have controls for gears and throttle like an inboard would have.
 
On my old Johnson 6 I got a piece of aluminium about 5mm thick 300mm long by 30mm wide. Two 1/4inch ww bolts and nuts attached this to the gear lever. This brings the gear operation up above the motor cover and also gives much more purchase. Johnson/Evinrude are prone to corrosion in the axle of the gear lever just under the power head and it is a devil of a job to open it up to free it. There is a grease nipple but it doesn't help much. So I rely on brute force and frequent excercise of the lever. If you made a similar lever you could cant it forward for even better access. Olewill
 
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