Steel Yachts

[Mino]

Has anyone ever had, or currently own, a steel yacht? If so, opinions, especially re. maintenance?

 

[Wansworth]

Cosmetic titivating almost 24/7 There can be problems with stray currents and anodes etc.Much of the maintenence can be reduced by palnning and choice of materials when building new ,like the use of s/s bar on the rail and s/s fittings and not putting wood on top of steel.Shot blasting and a proper paint system,although initially expensive will go someway to reducing the work.

 

[chinita]

I had a 46ft steel ketch which was never a problem as the hull was round bilge and exoxy coated. This produced a beautiful smooth and fair hull. However, she cost the original onwner a lot of money.

If I were to choose steel again I would:

1. Commission a new hull build from a Dutch Yard to a known Van der Stadt design.

3. Probably err to Hard Chine for ease of welding maintenance.

3. Keep all the systems as simple as possible.

4. No teak decks.

The result may not be the prettiest afloat but should be bulletproof - if that is what you want.

You could buy used. If you do, again, buy Dutch. I sail a friends Trintel 1 - 27ft. Built in steel by Anne Wever Yard in 1964. As sound today as she was when launched. Virtually no steel wastage - according to the survey - and she only cost him £11k !!

 

[MVDestiny]

We're a steel yacht in the Med, we need to titivate a few exposed areas about once a month - takes about an hour.
I've had wooden and glassfibre boats and I don't think that a well found construction in any material indicates a problem. it's down to the original builders, if they do a proper job at the begining, the boat will last a lifetime.

 

[AndrewB]

First 15 years, absolutely no problems. From there on progressive. Cosmetic at first, this year (27 years) first major panel replacement with the foredeck rusting through.

 

[pohopetch]

Our yacht is a New Zealand 43ft Ganley design - now 10 years old. We have been cruising since 2007 (ex NZ) and now in Alaska. Maintenance consists of 2 or 3 days concentrated effort each year. This September we repainted the cockpit to get rid of annoying dings, paint worn back to fairing filler on back of seats etc. Another year we repainted the decks with new anti-slip after grinding out and filling a few rust spots. We don't tend to do much on-going touch up. After a long ocean passage there tends to be a bit of rust staining on deck as previously unseen little dings bleed with the concentrated salt socking. But a hose off and brush down with a solution of muriatic acid after a passage takes that away. We carry the 2-part epoxy paint, epoxy filler etc with us.

For us, the advantages of steel far outweigh the disadvantages. It is no surprise that a large proportion of NZ yachts heading offshore to the Pacific are steel with the risk of reef encounters being very real. The main island locations are fine and well enough chartered, but if you venture away from the well trodden routes the chances are you will hit a few unmarked reefs or even spend a night on one. In a steel yacht that is a non-issue. Here are some of our experiences where steel has stood us in good stead based on 4 years experience:
- one tide spent on a reef in Northern PNG - no damage
- 3 days against a concrete wharf in Japan as a typhoon swept through - grazed paint layers off down to fairing but no hull damage
- two encounters with 5 to 7m long logs floating just under the surface in Alaska and British Columbia - both brought the yacht to full stop from 7 or 8 knots but no damage sustained to the hull
- encounter with another steel yacht in 1 metre swells in an open roadstead in PNG after mooring buoy let go and the two boats grated together unattended for 10 minutes until separated - 2 broken stantions, section of rub rail pulled off but no hull or deck damage
- pushing through bergy bits to the face of glaciers in Alaska - a steel hull can easily take on bits of floating ice of several hundred kg and push them out of the way with no damage.

Do check the inside of any steel yacht you are looking to buy. First signs of rust appear on inside corners of steel ribs and strings where small amounts of water can be held. Insulation at least down tot he water line is a must both to keep cool and warm, but primarily to stop condensation which leads to rust by constant dripping down the inside of the hull.

Peter

 

[Mino]

Very interesting, thanks all. Would you consider aluminium, or do you feel steel is the better choice?

 

[saltwater_gypsy]

A friend has a very nice steel Jongert from 1984 which is lasting well.The bilges are bone dry and he keeps it that way.
A thing to look out for are additions. By that I mean handy boxes bolted to the deck for fenders, warps, liferafts etc. The environment underneath is perfect for really bad rusting.
I also think you have to be meticulous about anodes below the waterline.

Apparently longevity is also enhanced if you berth alongside an aluminium boat!!!!

 

[Tranona]

Have watched this thread (and your similar one on MOBOs) with interest. The arguments for and against any particular hull material are well known and rehearsed.

The vast majority of buyers probably never give a second thought to the hull material and just assume that GRP is the correct material. In a way they are right as it satisfies most needs. People who choose alternate materials are making a positive choice, usually as you have seen from the responses to particular types of usage. So if you are going rock hopping or coral reefing, steel has distinct advantages. Similarly it is easier to build one offs and custom designs. On the other hand the range of shapes is limited by using a flat panel material. There are few economies of scale so the material does not lend itself to mass production.

The downside is that steel boats generally have a poor reputation in the used market, for all sorts of reasons, including the real fear that poor maintenance can have a significant impact on the integrity of the structure. Of course, repairs are relatively easy, provide there is access - often problematic because of the tendency to fill the hull with lots of furniture.

Somewhat similar comments apply to aluminium, although because of the skills required to weld the material it does not lend itself to home building in the same way as steel. The weight advantage of the material does give it an advantage for certain designs and applications, but epoxy/wood might be better if light weight of the hull/deck is key to the design.

Don't think steel will ever be a serious competitor to GRP for most people. Its advantages offer very little for the average user. There will always, though be small niches where it is the best material for the job.

 

[Bajansailor]

Here is an interesting thread from a few years ago re steel yachts - http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107473

In it I mentioned a naval architect called Danny Greene (he of two part nesting dinghy fame) who designed and built a very nice 34' steel ketch with a removable modular interior - he wrote an article in Cruising World 20 years ago about this boat, and I have just dug it out, and will scan it and post a copy on here later.

 

[Bajansailor]

Here is the article by Danny Greene from Cruising World :

I love that modular interior which can be easily removed in just a few hours.

 

[Mino]

Have watched this thread (and your similar one on MOBOs) with interest. The arguments for and against any particular hull material are well known and rehearsed.

The vast majority of buyers probably never give a second thought to the hull material and just assume that GRP is the correct material. In a way they are right as it satisfies most needs. People who choose alternate materials are making a positive choice, usually as you have seen from the responses to particular types of usage. So if you are going rock hopping or coral reefing, steel has distinct advantages. Similarly it is easier to build one offs and custom designs. On the other hand the range of shapes is limited by using a flat panel material. There are few economies of scale so the material does not lend itself to mass production.

The downside is that steel boats generally have a poor reputation in the used market, for all sorts of reasons, including the real fear that poor maintenance can have a significant impact on the integrity of the structure. Of course, repairs are relatively easy, provide there is access - often problematic because of the tendency to fill the hull with lots of furniture.

Somewhat similar comments apply to aluminium, although because of the skills required to weld the material it does not lend itself to home building in the same way as steel. The weight advantage of the material does give it an advantage for certain designs and applications, but epoxy/wood might be better if light weight of the hull/deck is key to the design.

Don't think steel will ever be a serious competitor to GRP for most people. Its advantages offer very little for the average user. There will always, though be small niches where it is the best material for the job.

Yes, I agree: very interesting. Two similar threads, as you said, because I am as equally interested in sail power as I am in mobobs. Always thinking ahead, too, as in the long term I am looking for a go anywhere liveaboard world cruiser that would be better than the current choice.

 

[Mino]

Here is the article by Danny Greene from Cruising World :

!

Excellent! Thanks

 

[mikewade]

I agree with Chinita and his recommendations. My boat is a Van de Stadt 34.Well built from day 1, she is 22 years old and even in steel, really has beautiful lines. She's a cruiser & weighs abit but even so she was running at 7.5 knots on Thursday in a stiff southerly. quite exhilerating.
She just underwent a full survey in June including a full ultrasonic test of hull integrity and received a good report. Yes there was some internal corrosion but I was aware of it and its been fully sorted. Externally, after the survey, I had her shotblasted & epoxy coated with a two pack on top then antifouled to the boot topping. The topsides were also two packed.Sure you get the occassional rust spots (I find them on the toe rail where people climbing over can cause some cosmetic damage, but it is just that, I leave this sort of thing until i can spend a reasonable day, treating, cleaning, priming & finishing etc, so I dont waste paints etc. She will spend many years yet sailing before she is ready for the breakers. I love her - dont be put off by the word "steel". I still get comments on her lines from other club members & one in particular has put his name down as a marker to buy her if & when I decide to sell

 

[Conachair]

If you are thinking of buying then download this book for under 8 quid.
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/metal-boat-maintenance-a-do-it-yourself-guide/4735597
Mostly maintenance but it does have a section on what to look out for if buying second hand. Also it's the best book or possibly only book on real life steel boat maintenance I've come across.

 

[KellysEye]

We have a Dutch built round bilge steel ketch. I agree with the others you do get dings which need filing, epoxy primer and epoxy topcoat. Also you tend to get corrosion around deck fittings (holes), remove and do as above. Steel is obviously higher maintenance than GRP but if you go long distane cruising it's only a matter of time before you hit something or something hits you and you'll be glad you have a steel boat. We've been hit twice once by a heavy pirogue at speed and once when we weren't around to see what hit us.

The main thing is to keep water out of the boat and if you do get water inside wash the bilge with fresh water and dry. Stainless capping on the bulwarks and stainless round the fairleads are a must. And as mentioned teak decks are a nono.

The only thing I don't agree with is that there are design limitations because steel is flat plate. It cheaper to build flat (hard chine) but there are many very pretty round bilge steel boats, ours is one example. Most people think she is GRP and remain sceptical until they tap her.

 

[Fascadale]

Coincidently there is a thread here about a transat in a this 24ft steel boat

 

[Mino]

Coincidently there is a thread here about a transat in a this 24ft steel boat

Thanks. Just checked that out. That really is a pretty, cosy little yacht. I'm smitten.

 

[Mino]

If you are thinking of buying then download this book for under 8 quid.
http://www.lulu.com/product/file-download/metal-boat-maintenance-a-do-it-yourself-guide/4735597
Mostly maintenance but it does have a section on what to look out for if buying second hand. Also it's the best book or possibly only book on real life steel boat maintenance I've come across.

Have booked marked that. Thanks.

 

[Mino]

Steel is obviously higher maintenance than GRP but if you go long distane cruising it's only a matter of time before you hit something or something hits you and you'll be glad you have a steel boat. We've been hit twice once by a heavy pirogue at speed and once when we weren't around to see what hit us.

Yup. That's one of the main reasons I have been considering steel; a (relatively) bullet proof cruiser/liveaboard. What I'm finding particulalry interesting is just how enthusiastic steel yachts owners are.