Steel Eventide 34 classic or not?

[Motor_Sailor]

There are industrial coatings that are more tolerant of less than perfect sand blast SA21/2 standard of cleanliness. But don't be fooled into thinking that these will make rust 'go away'. Even with these, they are only tolerant of a little surface rust and certainly no rust scale or grease or surface moisture or . . .

Our standby for all interior steel coating (including when perfectly prepared) was Devoe Coatings Bar-Rust 235. I haven't tried to find it in the UK, but Devoe is another AkzoNobel company, so it might be available through International's commersial coatings arm.

For rusty mild steel chainplates, try Lanocoat. Take off the turnbuckle, remove all the loose rust and then paint as best you can. When thoroughly dry, smother in slightly warmed (or on a summer day) with Lanocoat before refitting turnbuckle . Especially coat all surfaces that are in contact with each other. It is incredible tenacious and will resist being either washed off or worn away.

 

[Travellingwithtoby]

Ah...not Eventide but Ebbtide...very different but ultimately a much more capable boat for major offshore sailing....assuming appropriately sound and well built.

Wow I missed a lot of posts sorry!

Haha thank you john, I think I visited an eventide or similar and was stuck in my head!

You're obviously a relaxed and accepting sort of chap, who's diligently sourcing 'info' from correct places. Do try to make it that you make the boat comfortably liveable, as you're bringing her up to the spec that you wish her to be. I reckon it does take just a bit a day to make the difference, but it is that bit every day that ensures it's not onerous.
Oh by the way, for something that's not wooden, she looks OK!

Yep! I'm always asking! Fitted my £94 Chinese erberspasher 3 days ago. Made a hell of a difference for instant heat! Pansy still for overnight chilly ones!

Yes this is just it, working on getting my welder onboard, need to build an arch for my panels as they are just getting in my way and need to move to another trot mooring soon.. thinking out load. I'm going to just disconnect and stow them for the move.

I’m wondering if it wasthe boat built by a one time friend sometime in the late 1980s he told me he added on a bit at the stern to the original Alan Pape design.......if it was he seemed a very competent home builder ,I wonder!

Well I have a loose story if facts I am trying to piece together. That does sound very similar! It's one heck of a boat! And it's not as bad as I thought, rust makes things look bad!

I have recently dealt with patches of rust around the welded in stanchions - 1 inch galanised waterpipe - into the steel flush deck on our 1986 built Hartley 32.

I used a chipping hammer followed by a wire cup brush on an angle grinder to get to smoothish grey metal. Three coats of a very zinc rich primer followed by two coats of epoxy. Topcoat of white primer then white gloss.

2 years ago the same regime was used on the rusted out window frames, ten of them, 4 large, 6 small, only 1 speck of rust showing since then, will deal with that next year.

I 'did at' the stanchion bases previously using Fertan, then the zinc rich primer, then the epoxy.

Total failure - the Fertan instructions said 'dont use zinc rich paint after using Fertan'

RTFM....................................

Well at least you tried! So your advice is to read the instruction before applying ???

Likely the best book on the subject >
Metal boat maintenance-A do it yourself guide eBook: Fratcher, Scott: Amazon.co.uk: Kindle Store

Thank you will get that now!

Built 1991/2 launched 1994, Heritage Boatyard Kidderminster. Serous looking boat.

She feels it! Have got to ask the previous owner about her steerage goi g astern and prop walk etc, they have been ever so helpful I think I am truly landing on my feet for once!

Very pretty, and she does look more like the very capable Ebbtide. Seems the seller didnt know what they had - or indeed how to look after it.

I think it was a family boat, and the family being in the boat industry it suffered as a builders house or a plumbers plumbing!

Have they launched yours yet?

A read through the Steel Boat thread of a couple of years ago will produce some great ideas from Brent Swain, but also a fair bit of what can only be described as rubbish.

His practices for long term corrosion protection and " Dont Do's " are worth taking note of.

I will do a search this evening!

Very true, hidden in the bickering there was some good stuff. Like nothing bolted through the deck, weld everything, no holes anywhere. No wood touching painted metal anywhere.

That all makes sense, I'm wondering about building a "tent" over the stern, chain plates etc are still solid but I would rather get things like that done once and properly, but tig and a breeze is either expensive (lots of gas) or poor welds. I suppose it's a good time to learn stick!

A very nice looking boat sir.


I know the feeling, however, if the chain plates are mild steel the standing rigging tension and movement will soon break down any paint film. I used to paint mine each spring and live with the rust stains for the rest of the year. Only permanent answer is to weld on stainless steel attachments but this is a specialist job as they are under tension and having one fail could really spoil you sailing season.


Welcome to the world of older, pre-loved boats. One owner's "tender loving care" = a later owner's "nightmare".

As to paint, I can not remember the brand name/details but in 2009 I epoxy coated my GRP hull prior to applying Coppercoat. Got the high build epoxy paint from the Coppercoat people and it was an industrial product intended for repainting steel bridges etc. that was tolerant of application in damp conditions. It may be worth your while looking outside the domestic/yacht suppliers for a suitable coating.

Now that's a good idea! The enamel paint I was given was used for industrial machinery, so along those lines ?

Silly question, coppercoating a steel boat? Thinking anode/ cathode dissimilar metals is it the done thing?

There are industrial coatings that are more tolerant of less than perfect sand blast SA21/2 standard of cleanliness. But don't be fooled into thinking that these will make rust 'go away'. Even with these, they are only tolerant of a little surface rust and certainly no rust scale or grease or surface moisture or . . .

Our standby for all interior steel coating (including when perfectly prepared) was Devoe Coatings Bar-Rust 235. I haven't tried to find it in the UK, but Devoe is another AkzoNobel company, so it might be available through International's commersial coatings arm.

For rusty mild steel chainplates, try Lanocoat. Take off the turnbuckle, remove all the loose rust and then paint as best you can. When thoroughly dry, smother in slightly warmed (or on a summer day) with Lanocoat before refitting turnbuckle . Especially coat all surfaces that are in contact with each other. It is incredible tenacious and will resist being either washed off or worn away.

Thank you very much sir! Will do some research!

 

[srm]

Silly question, coppercoating a steel boat?

Have only used it on two GRP hulls. Touched up the one I did in 2009 last year so was well worth the initial extra effort and cost. Did have loss of coppercoat around the bronze cooling plate for the fridge. While the boat was in the UK I kept it afloat and only ebbed out to clean the bottom and check/change anodes so no annual lift out costs for antifouling.
While researching Coppercoat I read that it can be used on steel hulls as each grain of copper is isolated by the epoxy resin until the surface is exposed to the sea. May be worth looking in to, especially as more environmental regs come in and restrict the cleaning off and applying of conventional antifoul.

 

[srm]

Hi Toby,
My earlier comments about condensation and insulation for plywood construction apply just as much to steel. However, once the steel is primed and coated you can fix the insulation in place - either sheet material or two component polyurethane foam spray.
I have used Froth-Pak sucessfully both on a boat and on the inside of a house roof. There are other brands on the market now. Basically, two presurised cans with a common spray gun. Foam sticks to just about anything and sets in a few minutes as it expands but needs covering to protect from UV afterwards.

 

[Aardee]

Also anyone know of any chandeliers near Dartmouth that are open?

They should shed some light on your rust issues