Steel Eventide 34 classic or not?

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Travellingwithtoby

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Hi guys/gals

Was not sure if she could be classed as a classic?

Anyway!

Looking for recommendations on paint for the steel. Hammerite direct to rust? Haha

I have 10L of 2pac enamel that apparently needs no priming. In tile red I planned on mixing small quantities as I work my way around the boat cleaning back the scale and treating it.

But in would love to do some touch ups where the standing rigging attaches, I thought calm day, count the turns till its loose enough to take off, clean it up paint it and then reattach with same amount of turns and move to next one?

Also anyone know of any chandeliers near Dartmouth that are open?

Cheers!

Toby
 
I would suggest the PBO forum for the steel/rust queries, the Eventiders web pages for more general advice/history, but regard the Eventiders & all subsequent MG designs as "classic" so very welcome here. I think photo's should be posted here!
 
To achieve full classic status a photograph is required. The boat does not need to be pristine for this indeed an 'as found' image is often preferred. The committee is obviously pre-disposed to the work of the designer in question but for form's sake a picture is required.
 
There you go guys!

I'm starting to realise the extent of how "unfinished" she really is

But that aside I'm doing a bit a day and seeing how far it gets me!
 
Ok, so the further I look the more I find.... i think whoever's done the work is either trying to cause the next owner heartache, or well I dont know what I would call them politely!

Just went to check why battery voltage was fluctuating and noticed the bolts holding the cables where not just loose.... they could be lifted up and down 5mm easily

I'm starting to worry.there are half done jobs everywhere.....

Om I'm guessing for a blast and primer it's an interior refit job, out of the question as I'm living in it... so a needle gun and ear defenders it is!

If I can manage a patch at a time then it might get done in a year or two
 
If you can get it to clean shiny steel then epoxy for coating the bare steel . you will need to select the correct one.. any risk of tiny amounts of rust though and coating in epoxy will bring it back .
Hammerite used to be very good but whatever was in the paint to make it so great appears to be missing nowadays as voc content is clamped down upon.
Great looking project..
 
Travellingwithtoby said:
Ok, so the further I look the more I find.... i think whoever's done the work is either trying to cause the next owner heartache, or well I dont know what I would call them politely!

Just went to check why battery voltage was fluctuating and noticed the bolts holding the cables where not just loose.... they could be lifted up and down 5mm easily

I'm starting to worry.there are half done jobs everywhere.....

Om I'm guessing for a blast and primer it's an interior refit job, out of the question as I'm living in it... so a needle gun and ear defenders it is!

If I can manage a patch at a time then it might get done in a year or two
Click to expand...
Hang on and do some more planning then hopefully you can live in a tent whilst you get the basic cleaning and paining done,you can shot blast in parts,Hull,deck etc in the summer
 
You're obviously a relaxed and accepting sort of chap, who's diligently sourcing 'info' from correct places. Do try to make it that you make the boat comfortably liveable, as you're bringing her up to the spec that you wish her to be. I reckon it does take just a bit a day to make the difference, but it is that bit every day that ensures it's not onerous.
Oh by the way, for something that's not wooden, she looks OK!
 
I’m wondering if it wasthe boat built by a one time friend sometime in the late 1980s he told me he added on a bit at the stern to the original Alan Pape design.......if it was he seemed a very competent home builder ,I wonder!
 
I have recently dealt with patches of rust around the welded in stanchions - 1 inch galanised waterpipe - into the steel flush deck on our 1986 built Hartley 32.

I used a chipping hammer followed by a wire cup brush on an angle grinder to get to smoothish grey metal. Three coats of a very zinc rich primer followed by two coats of epoxy. Topcoat of white primer then white gloss.

2 years ago the same regime was used on the rusted out window frames, ten of them, 4 large, 6 small, only 1 speck of rust showing since then, will deal with that next year.

I 'did at' the stanchion bases previously using Fertan, then the zinc rich primer, then the epoxy.

Total failure - the Fertan instructions said 'dont use zinc rich paint after using Fertan'

RTFM....................................
 
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rotrax said:
A read through the Steel Boat thread of a couple of years ago will produce some great ideas from Brent Swain, but also a fair bit of what can only be described as rubbish.

His practices for long term corrosion protection and " Dont Do's " are worth taking note of.
Click to expand...
Very true, hidden in the bickering there was some good stuff. Like nothing bolted through the deck, weld everything, no holes anywhere. No wood touching painted metal anywhere.
 
A very nice looking boat sir.

Travellingwithtoby said:
But in would love to do some touch ups where the standing rigging attaches
Click to expand...
I know the feeling, however, if the chain plates are mild steel the standing rigging tension and movement will soon break down any paint film. I used to paint mine each spring and live with the rust stains for the rest of the year. Only permanent answer is to weld on stainless steel attachments but this is a specialist job as they are under tension and having one fail could really spoil you sailing season.

Travellingwithtoby said:
Ok, so the further I look the more I find.... i think whoever's done the work is either trying to cause the next owner heartache
Click to expand...
Welcome to the world of older, pre-loved boats. One owner's "tender loving care" = a later owner's "nightmare".

As to paint, I can not remember the brand name/details but in 2009 I epoxy coated my GRP hull prior to applying Coppercoat. Got the high build epoxy paint from the Coppercoat people and it was an industrial product intended for repainting steel bridges etc. that was tolerant of application in damp conditions. It may be worth your while looking outside the domestic/yacht suppliers for a suitable coating.
 
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