Steel boat repairs zinc primer one component vs epoxy two component

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Artic Warrior

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Good morning everyone I can't seem to get any zinc 2 component primer where I am in north east Greece soI'm in the dilemma. I need to touch up underneath of my Steel boat I can only purchase zinc one component primer or epoxy two component what are your thoughts because I would like the zinc but I don't like the single component Factor. So I will have to go with the epoxy two component
 
>I need to touch up underneath of my Steel boat I can only purchase zinc one component primer or epoxy two component what are your thoughts because I would like the zinc but I don't like the single component Factor. So I will have to go with the epoxy two component

Zinc rich epoxy is the one to use but I have never heard of Zinc 2 or 1. What is the difference?
 
Artic Warrior said:
Good morning everyone I can't seem to get any zinc 2 component primer where I am in north east Greece soI'm in the dilemma. I need to touch up underneath of my Steel boat I can only purchase zinc one component primer or epoxy two component what are your thoughts because I would like the zinc but I don't like the single component Factor. So I will have to go with the epoxy two component
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Why limit yourself to zinc epoxy? If it chips you'll still have corrosion lifting the paint in the surrounding area & any benefit from the zinc will be gone quickly anyway, Good epoxy & lots of coats IMHO. I've not had much success with epifanes zinc epoxy for touching up above the waterline, amerlon sealer/epoxy has been much much better.

Probably as good as any method here..
http://forums.ybw.com/forums/showth...ty-steel-pulpit-pushpit&p=6122970#post6122970
 
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On the deck and above water line I just use polyurethane with no problems and epoxy in the areas that I don't really want to do it again if you know what I mean. So I will continue to use two component epoxy in the new deck drain pipes that I have welded in
 
I would like to know more about the product that meta yard in France uses.
It's the powder mixed with water and you brush it onto fresh Steel and this is for under the waterline friend of mine uses it touches in little areas and he has no rust problems whatsoever
 
Preparation of the surface of the steel is key in terms of the elimination of ALL the rust and the roughness of the surface to ensure that the epoxy adheres to the steel properly.

Sharp corners can also be an issue as paint tends to flow away from sharp corners that leaving a educed paint thickness.

I use epoxy tar below the water line to reduce the osmosis of the painted surface.

Note the link by GHA to previous discussions on this topic.
 
Artic Warrior said:
Yes that's right regarding surface so I made myself a shot blaster because I have a compressor onboard and I do use it sometimes but very messy
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Yes I know

1lcJ5x9.jpg
 
I was referring to the two and one component meaning 2 component is paint and hardener one component is no hardener we call it one pack and two pack at home UK in Europe they call it component
KellysEye said:
>I need to touch up underneath of my Steel boat I can only purchase zinc one component primer or epoxy two component what are your thoughts because I would like the zinc but I don't like the single component Factor. So I will have to go with the epoxy two component

Zinc rich epoxy is the one to use but I have never heard of Zinc 2 or 1. What is the difference?
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Artic Warrior said:
Wow nice picture where was that I love the health and safety with the dust but then again you look like you're in a remote area so it doesn't matter
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It is a rural part of South Africa about 30-40 Km east of Johannesburg. The place is a friends plot so quite remote. An advantage is the we are about 2000m above sea level and we gat no rail in winter and this was winter as you can see by the yellow grass. The very low humidity means we get almost no flash rusting so painting becomes not so urgent. Last week humidity was 9 % today is 25 % and we are just into spring.
 
Hey Rogershaw, Dreaded Thread Drift...

If you are near J'Burg, where do you sail? Cape Town is about 800 NM from where you are...

Cheers
 
Monique said:
Hey Rogershaw, Dreaded Thread Drift...

If you are near J'Burg, where do you sail? Cape Town is about 800 NM from where you are...

Cheers
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Durban 600Km from me leaving 6am tuesday and will have lunch of the club.

I also live in Richards Bay for some of the time.

Split time now between Jhb, Dbn and RB.
 
Used a needle gun much, Roger?

Liftout monday with chipping & painting - and wondering if it's worth getting a big compresser on hire, bought a needle gun off ebay a while ago but haven't tried it yet.

p.jpg
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GHA said:
Used a needle gun much, Roger?

Liftout monday with chipping & painting - and wondering if it's worth getting a big compresser on hire, bought a needle gun off ebay a while ago but haven't tried it yet.

p.jpg
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Yes for small areas mainly inside around framing to remove loose rust then as I have said before hydrochloric followed by phosphoric acid then high build epoxy paint.

I cleaned off an old rusty prop shaft coupling the other day only in the acid for less than an hour it was so clean that it flash rusted over the next 3 days as I did not have any phosphoric acid at home but will clean when I get to the boat next week
 
Q
Rogershaw said:
It is a rural part of South Africa about 30-40 Km east of Johannesburg. The place is a friends plot so quite remote. An advantage is the we are about 2000m above sea level and we gat no rail in winter and this was winter as you can see by the yellow grass. The very low humidity means we get almost no flash rusting so painting becomes not so urgent. Last week humidity was 9 % today is 25 % and we are just into spring.
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I used to live in Johannesburg so yes I know it is very dry there are Mark 1 escorts that have original paint and no rust at all
 
GHA said:
Used a needle gun much, Roger?

Liftout monday with chipping & painting - and wondering if it's worth getting a big compresser on hire, bought a needle gun off ebay a while ago but haven't tried it yet.

p.jpg
..
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Your photo looks like an air chisel, not a needle gun. Needle guns are good for scabby rust but won't leave a surface that's ready for paint.
 
penberth3 said:
Your photo looks like an air chisel, not a needle gun. Needle guns are good for scabby rust but won't leave a surface that's ready for paint.
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This is my descaler. As you can see it has both a needle head and chisels so GHA's will most likly also have a needle head.

ASCALD-190.jpg


As I said the needle descaler is used to remove the loose rust and paint surrounding the area to the treated. This is followed by acid treatment, in my case hydrochloric followed by phosphoric acid before any paint is applied.
 
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