Staysail sheet car position

[fearmhuir]

I have a 130 per cent overlap genoa on a roller furler on the forestay. I also have a hanked-on 100 per cent overlap jib that goes on a detachable forestay, and sheets through a second set of genoa cars on the side decking. The problem is that the shrouds do not allow me to properly sheet in the inner jib tightly.
My plan is to install a roller furler on the inner forestay for the smaller jib and make that permanent.
At the same time I want to fit short tracks on the coachroof and sheet the smaller jib through these, inside the shrouds.
My question is - how do I work out the position of the track on the inner coachroof? There is teak decking covering the coachroof, and I don't want to have more than one go at it.
I thought about bisecting the angle of the sail at the clew, and extending that, but that does not seem accurate enough.
Any ideas?
The boat is a Malo 36, and I would intend just using one or other sail, and not together.

 

[pmagowan]

You could try using a low friction ring which you can haul up or down and through which the sheet passes. This allows you to angle the sheet appropriately without moving a car along the track.

 

[PetiteFleur]

As I understand it, draw a line from the clew of the sail to halfway up the luff, continue this line to the deck and this should be the line of the sheet. But may be lightly different in practice, or ask your sailmaker?

 

[flaming]

If you're meaning that you can get the correct forward's backwards movement with the cars on the current track, but you would like them to be further inboard than your existing track is, then I can suggest experimenting with a barber hauler system before you commit?

So for example, something like this.

You can then see what effect on your sail shape and upwind progress various sheeting angles have before you go drilling holes in your deck. You may even find that the barber hauler system is enough on its own, as it does have the advantage that when not hard on the wind you can ease it and revert to the "normal" sheeting position.

 

[lw395]

As I understand it, draw a line from the clew of the sail to halfway up the luff, continue this line to the deck and this should be the line of the sheet. But may be lightly different in practice, or ask your sailmaker?

I think a bit over halfway is common, but halfway might be a pretty good start for a staysail with more equal foot and leech lengths?
But a blade jib is going to be more particular than most sails.
If the sail can be moved up and down the furler a few inches by varying tack shackles/lashings, that will adjust the sheet angle nicely. Some dinghies do it that way.
I would try to work out if my short tracks could cover the range 50 to 60% of luff height, and bisecting the angles.
A short track gives big changes of angle when the clew is close to it.
Don't forget it's always good to be able to move the cars forwards from the ideal close-hauled position, for a close reach or even for more power in a choppy sea.
OTOH, it's usually easier to 'barber haul' the sheet down than up.

Also bear in mind, with a close sheeted jib, the sheet postion you need can be influenced by the main, e.g. more or less twist in the main, you'll want the jib to adjust in sympathy sometimes.

 

[William_H]

Firstly I would not rush to buy furling reefing gear for the inner jib. It will be small enough that you can manage strong winds by getting rid of the main outer jib. And also small enough to be able to lower it to the deck or even have a pull down line from the cockpit. Regarding sheeting position. To do it properly will require adjustment to be made when sailing. So hard on the wind you want it close in sheeting angle to centre line and fore and aft position to get sail luffing at top and bottom simultaneously. Off the wind a little you want a wider sheeting angle to c/l and a little further forward sheeting to keep the top working with sheet a bit looser. So as said the barber hauler system is best for your needs. Given that you already have a track for the inner jib. Hopefully you can get around the shrouds with sheet either inside or outside shrouds. good luck ol'will

 

[fearmhuir]

Thanks guys for the inputs. The barber haul idea is a good one, and will try that first of all, although not quite sure until I try it whether it will work with the sail inside of the shrouds.
I have read about drawing a line from the midpoint of the sail to the clew and continuing that, but wasnt sure if it would work with the sail that I have, which has quite a high cut clew.
Will experiment with the barber haul first, and come back with results!
The reason I was considering roller furling on the second stay was that it would get over having to haul out a sail from the stern locker, lug it forward, hank it on, etc - with a furler it would be there, always ready for use.