Starting problem

Update. Today I went to start the engine again before touching anything and again it wouldn’t start. I’d decided that the ignition switch would be the next item for troubleshooting and removed the instrument panel. On the off chance I tried the engine again and it sprung into life! I’ve cleaned up all the connections on the switch and contra lubed them and did the same on all the various loom plugs. All appears well. For info a new Yanmar ignition switch would cost £175….. Huge thanks again to Paul for his advice and wisdom.
 
Caladh said:
Update. Today I went to start the engine again before touching anything and again it wouldn’t start. I’d decided that the ignition switch would be the next item for troubleshooting and removed the instrument panel. On the off chance I tried the engine again and it sprung into life! I’ve cleaned up all the connections on the switch and contra lubed them and did the same on all the various loom plugs. All appears well. For info a new Yanmar ignition switch would cost £175….. Huge thanks again to Paul for his advice and wisdom.
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Or a suitable 4 Position - (Off/ Run / Pre-heat / Start) replacement from Furneaux Riddall for just under £17

.
 
Caladh said:
Update. Today I went to start the engine again before touching anything and again it wouldn’t start. I’d decided that the ignition switch would be the next item for troubleshooting and removed the instrument panel. On the off chance I tried the engine again and it sprung into life! I’ve cleaned up all the connections on the switch and contra lubed them and did the same on all the various loom plugs. All appears well. For info a new Yanmar ignition switch would cost £175….. Huge thanks again to Paul for his advice and wisdom.
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Glad you got it sorted, thanks for posting the result.
 
PaulRainbow said:
You have to wonder, why do you need a relay to operate a solenoid ?

If the key switch and the wiring between it and the starter solenoid are rated for the solenoid current draw it's totally unnecessary.
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Interestingly I think Yanmar issued a ticket years ago indicating a more robust wiring loom as it was found the originals could not address the power draw required as the equipment aged - something to do with the length of the loom from switch to engine. Maybe that’s why there is a relay in the circuit.
 
Caladh said:
Interestingly I think Yanmar issued a ticket years ago indicating a more robust wiring loom as it was found the originals could not address the power draw required as the equipment aged - something to do with the length of the loom from switch to engine. Maybe that’s why there is a relay in the circuit.
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Common fault and and will happen again.Voltage drop in the wire.
Just replace the single wire direct from the ign switch to the starter with a heavier gauge tinned wire.This will also cut out any connection prob
with the junction box.
I think it was the white one on mine 3JH2TE.
 
Same engine was tricky to start. Bit of sniffing pointed to the switch not activating the heaters. Since getting a replacement switch was a problem, just fitted a push button with a decent relay(45amp). He then referred to it as the 'Magic' button. Went from churning over and eventually starting, to kicking off after a few turns.
 
olam said:
Common fault and and will happen again.Voltage drop in the wire.
Just replace the single wire direct from the ign switch to the starter with a heavier gauge tinned wire.This will also cut out any connection prob
with the junction box.
I think it was the white one on mine 3JH2TE.
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But did your engine have the starter relay like Caladh's engine. It seems to have been fitted to some versions only and as an option on others.
Without a relay voltage drops would be more likely and more significant.
The solenoid current, at least by the "pull in " winding is quite high. I have measured 40 amps on a Volvo one. The "hold in" current is much less. 8 to 10 amps AFAIK but I have not actually measured it.
 
I don't think Caladh's has a relay.Some were fitted to allow for the voltage drop in the wire
but I decided may as well just improve the wire.
Mine has been ok for 2 years now.
Whilst i was there i fitted a 2nd independent start button in engine bay in case ign switch did ever fail.
 
olam said:
I don't think Caladh's has a relay.Some were fitted to allow for the voltage drop in the wire
but I decided may as well just improve the wire.
Mine has been ok for 2 years now.
Whilst i was there i fitted a 2nd independent start button in engine bay in case ign switch did ever fail.
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There is a picture of it in post #5
 
Update. With the boat back in the water we went for shake down yesterday and after a lunch stop the engine wouldn’t start…arrggh. I had the starter motor out today to get to the relay. There was severe corrosion on the thinner wire bullet connection that goes to the bottom of the relay (see pic at the start of the post). The relay terminals have all been remade and cleaned. I’m now happy that all connections that I can see in the starter circuit are good. If I continue to have problems the next stage would be to run another cable from the starter switch to the solenoid. Getting the starter motor back in on this 4JH-TE was a nightmare! However the engine started ok and I’ll update as and when necessary.
 
Caladh said:
I turn the ignition switch on, the alarms go off but when I try to start - nothing happens. I thought it was the cables on the back of the starter which I’ve cleaned up. There is a spade connector also which I thought wasn’t making a good contact and re attached it. In the past, fiddling with these cables has caused the starter to start and all is well. However today before she comes out of the water I came to start her and zilch again. I again fiddled with wire to no avail. I’m wondering if it’s the starter switch ? Not sure how to even start trouble shooting this issue. Anyone been there before ? I had the starter serviced two years ago and a new solenoid fitted.
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I take it it’s not in gear and interlocked ? Edit. Just saw it’s likely not.
 
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