PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Three times the money of a decent wet cell starter battery and a different charging profile to his domestic battery means that it won't be optimally charged or the domestic battery gets more volts than it might like.
Starter Battery Recommendation
- Thread starter SimonFa
- Start date
Three times the money of a decent wet cell starter battery and a different charging profile to his domestic battery means that it won't be optimally charged or the domestic battery gets more volts than it might like.
JohnGC
Well-Known Member
I use a Varta 45Ah small car wet cell battery with my 2020D. I estimate 30s of glow and 30s cranking uses less than 0.5% of the capacity. Can't remember the CCA figure off hand but for UK use it's been fine for the last 4 years.
In practice the engine only needs a couple of seconds cranking.
John
In practice the engine only needs a couple of seconds cranking.
John
macd
Well-Known Member
Only by you.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
neil1967
Well-Known Member
We have an optima red top for starting, as I could mount it away from the domestic batteries and use the space saved for an additional (3rd) domestic battery in the battery box.It is charged on the same charging regime as my domestic Trojan wet cell batteries and both are working well, and have been for around 4 years. When I checked the charging recommendations for the red top and the Trojans were not that different. It may be that the OP doesn't need the benefits (and the cost) of an optima, but it is possible to successfully mix the optima with wet cell if that meets the requirements.
philwebb
Well-Known Member
+1 for Halfords Calcium. I have a small dedicated starter battery of around 50aH. It starts my 2010 first turn of the key. Sterling smart charger keeps it topped up preferentially. I take my batteries off in winter and store them at home and charge them from time to time.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Apologies that I haven't read all the responses but before you go to Halfords, have a look at https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/
I've had a few from them good price, free and quick delivery. As Tranona says, choose one for a 1.5l diesel which will be quite adequate unless you need a small size when you could consider a Red Flash compact one. Personally I'd ditch the 1-2-B switch for separate switches and a split charger of some sort unless you can guarantee you're not going to forget to switch over every time you use the engine.
I've had a few from them good price, free and quick delivery. As Tranona says, choose one for a 1.5l diesel which will be quite adequate unless you need a small size when you could consider a Red Flash compact one. Personally I'd ditch the 1-2-B switch for separate switches and a split charger of some sort unless you can guarantee you're not going to forget to switch over every time you use the engine.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
They only fit things if the vehicle is in their carpark.
Plevier
Well-Known Member
Halfords batteries are fine but expensive. I believe they are currently made by Yuasa but as with any own label stuff that could change any time.
The vast majority of car batteries now are lead calcium whether they bother to say it or not. Lead antimony is much less common. Despite the sales spiel calcium is not automatically better, antimony has its benefits.
The vast majority of car batteries now are lead calcium whether they bother to say it or not. Lead antimony is much less common. Despite the sales spiel calcium is not automatically better, antimony has its benefits.
SimonFa
Well-Known Member
Once again, thanks everyone its given e more to think about than I anticipated 
I was particularly interested in the 1-2-both switches links, but I didn't see it as a problem so far, but will give it more thought.
I was particularly interested in the 1-2-both switches links, but I didn't see it as a problem so far, but will give it more thought.
RupertW
Well-Known Member
Once again, thanks everyone its given e more to think about than I anticipated
It's a very contentious subject to my surprise but then I'm a 1:2:both fan - but only if you know what you are doing and it's only you who is ever doing it. Otherwise VSR and independent isolators are far more forgiving.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
At least fir a VSR, all batteries will get charged, whatever setting the switch is set to.
ex-Gladys
Well-Known Member
macd
Well-Known Member
Not so. It's pretty much become the default alloy for starter battery plates. Has the advantages of low self-discharge and reduced gassing compared to lead-antimony. (Plevier, incidentally, probably knows more about lead-acid batteries than anyone else on the forum. You can trust what he writes.)
SimonFa
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the advice. I checked space in the battery compartment yesterday and reckon with a bit of shuffling around I can fit a Red Flash battery next to the charger which is also close to the switch so I won't need to extend the cable to the starter. I might even be able to re-route it if there's some slack. I also like the idea of it being sealed and maintenance free because I won't be able to get to it easily once installed and I won't have space to use a battery box.
tonkatoy87uk
Well-Known Member
I'm looking at sorting the batteries out on our boat soon.
We currently have 2 start batteries linked through the 1, 2 both switch and a what I'm going to call the house battery which has its own isolation switch in the cabin. All 3 are liquid acid batteries. All the lights, pumps etc are all wired up to the 2 start battery bank which are holding up well and have only gone flat once due to something being left on. The house battery on the other hand dies pretty quick when the engine is off. Which has all the nav gear wired to it, which other than the raydar is a very minimal draw, (raymarine a98)
They are installed on a fishing boat which gets the odd nights fish and with winter coming up the lights are going to be on alot etc.
the seperate banks are wired up to a split charge relay and from what I can tell one side is the single house and the other side is the twin start
I'd like all the nav, nav lights, deck,cabin lights, plugs all to be on the house and start to just be on its own.
Engine is a Mercruiser 4.2d inboard and wont start on one battery. I will get current battery info and put it up.
what batteries would you recommend and how should the isolator switch and split charge be wired? Im also looking at putting in some solar panels too but have no idea what to get.
help would be much appreciated.
thanks Jon
We currently have 2 start batteries linked through the 1, 2 both switch and a what I'm going to call the house battery which has its own isolation switch in the cabin. All 3 are liquid acid batteries. All the lights, pumps etc are all wired up to the 2 start battery bank which are holding up well and have only gone flat once due to something being left on. The house battery on the other hand dies pretty quick when the engine is off. Which has all the nav gear wired to it, which other than the raydar is a very minimal draw, (raymarine a98)
They are installed on a fishing boat which gets the odd nights fish and with winter coming up the lights are going to be on alot etc.
the seperate banks are wired up to a split charge relay and from what I can tell one side is the single house and the other side is the twin start
I'd like all the nav, nav lights, deck,cabin lights, plugs all to be on the house and start to just be on its own.
Engine is a Mercruiser 4.2d inboard and wont start on one battery. I will get current battery info and put it up.
what batteries would you recommend and how should the isolator switch and split charge be wired? Im also looking at putting in some solar panels too but have no idea what to get.
help would be much appreciated.
thanks Jon
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