Stanchion Repair

[Blue5]

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I need to repair a stanchion base that has crazed the GRP around the base. The surface has not raised but I guess I need to take the stanchion off and grind out the crazing to a suitable depth. As I have no experience of GRP repair what would be best material to use as filler in this instance.

 

[KenMcCulloch]

Others will no doubt advise on the GRP or gel coat repair but my observation would be that you need to pay some attention to what's underneath. The cracking is indicative of insufficient spreading of the load. I would fit a big wooden backing plate or do some GRP building up to reinforce the deck as part of the job. if you just grind out the cracks and fill them it will surely happen again.

 

[asj1]

I aagree with the previous poster that some sort of backing plate would be helpful. But a stainless steel plate would be easier to fit as could be much thinner.
Then grind out the cracks with adremel or similiar and refill with some sort of filler, no doubt epoxy would be best, but gelcoat filler would be cheaper and easier. As you have got painted decks you can use power equipment to get a very smoothg finish an dthen re-paint and you won't see any sighn of the repair ( you certainly can't on my westerly !)

 

[samwise]

Is this the only stanchion showing these cracks? It may be worth checking the others. Any idea how it was caused? Certainly have a look at what's underneath, some builders were a bit cavalier when it came to backing plates and relied on big washers under the nut. Having done this job on my boat, the worst part was refitting the headlining, but then I own a Westerly and we know about these things!

 

[Blue5]

Thanks all, the boat is a Westerly and this is the only stanchion affected, I have not removed the headlining yet but at least it is in a cupboard so no large areas of headling to remove and replace. Point taken on spreading the load, it will be interesting to see if its just individual washers on the undeside of GRP

Thanks again, never ceases to amaze the depth of knowledge and speedy replies on this forum

 

[rhumlady]

Not just underneath but what is in between. On my Konsort it is end grain balsa which had compressed when someone prior to my ownership had had a mishap. I had to grind back and remove the balsa then fill with marine filler, thickened epoxy or polyester would do. Then repair the cosmetics. The filler will obiously stiffen the area underneath. I had problems due to water ingress into the balsa hence the removal.

 

[ex-Gladys]

Where is oldsaltoz whenyou need him. Potentially you may have damaged end grain balsa under there. If there's been water ingress, cut the inner laminate away as rhumlady says, put in your replacement for the balsa and epoxy in. Then drill much too big holes through for the bolts (about twice the diameter you need IIRC) and fill that hole with thickened epoxy. Once that has cured drill your bolt hole through the middle of the epoxy plug. No more issues with the structure if there's water ingress.

 

[milfordman]

I agree with the earlier post about fitting a reinforcment plate under the deck. If space and access are not a problem what I have done in this case is to used 12mm plywood by 125mm square with the edges well chamfered. The chamfered edge has two advantages a: it ensures the change in overall deck thickness is gradual which should reduce stress concentrations. b: it is much easier to glass over the reinforcement pad with GRP. However whether you decide to use the plywood or stainless steel, I would recomend that you bed it down, or actualy bed it up using a filler so the the plate is in intimate contact with the deck. This to ensure the load is spread as evenly as posible.

 

[Blueboatman]

May I suggest that before you create more work and mess than is necessary you determine-as milfordsam points out-the access from underneath.
Post a photo maybe and certainly remove a bolt and root around in the hole with a bent coathanger or scribe and a powerful torch to determine what is there.
You may get away with rebedding the stantion and fitting oversized washers underneath.
Clearly the deck is already stronger than the stantion,which has bent under load at the mid through hole.