Stanchion removal

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edwardcs

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Does anyone have any experience / advice on how to remove aluminium stanchions that have 'welded' themselves into the bases through electrolytic action? I've managed to get 5 out but the remaining 3 just won't shift without risking the integrity of the toe-rail. I want to replace them with new ones that I can then remove every winter.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Edward C-Stapylton
 
edwardcs said:
Does anyone have any experience / advice on how to remove aluminium stanchions that have 'welded' themselves into the bases through electrolytic action? I've managed to get 5 out but the remaining 3 just won't shift without risking the integrity of the toe-rail. I want to replace them with new ones that I can then remove every winter.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Edward C-Stapylton
Click to expand...

The way a pal did this on a Westerly Storm was to cut the stanchions of just above the base and then using a jig saw carefully cut a slot in the stub in the base cutting from the bore outwards. This allows you to squeeze the remaining bit inwards and break the seal.

He used a fine metal cutting blade.
 
We had a similar "problem" with the stanchions on a First 35. We sawed the old ones off and replaced them with slightly shorter ones with stubs welded into the bottom that were machined to fit the inside of the olds stumps exactly. This was the course of action only after trying a blowtorch followed by a fire-extinguisher. I'm pleased to report that not even extreme (600+ degree) thermal shock could loosen the stanchion stumps!
 
I ended up cutting (actually more like hacking) the stanchion base off the boat (Westerly). Having got the stanchion in a vice, it was still a pig of a job to get the remains of the base off the stanchion. Aluminium really does weld together!

Moral of the tale: don't expect to get the stanchion out of the base on the boat!
 
Bilgediver said:
The way a pal did this on a Westerly Storm was to cut the stanchions of just above the base and then using a jig saw carefully cut a slot in the stub in the base cutting from the bore outwards. This allows you to squeeze the remaining bit inwards and break the seal.

He used a fine metal cutting blade.
Click to expand...

The Storm has set screws to retain the stanchion which can also corrode in. I assume you have tried the boiling water trick which can sometimes loosen the joint enough. Otherwise, the saw and slot option looks the best way forward.
 
Stanchions

Having got 5 loose you have done well. Either don't bother with the others or buy 3 new stanchions and bases and re-fix. Really not difficult and in terms of boaty things not that expensive. Then as you say take them apart every year and put back together with zinc chromate paste ( Duralac).

Regards
 
I've had to do this several years ago on my Moody33. I had to replace both the alloy stanchion and the alloy base had corroded and split; also had to drill out the stainless screws which held the base to the toerail and deck. Replacement bases come with an insulating plastic sleeve. I used DURALAC as an insulator between the stainless bolts, split pin and toerail and base. They were all a B***** to get out, some took about 4 hours! especially as you couldn't always get at the nut under the deck so had to cut 'access' holes in the inside cabinets. I still have one on the pulpit which has split and I'm hoping to replace it this winter, if I have the patience especially as I don't think I can reach the nut under the deck........ Good Luck with yours!
 
not too difficult. I drilled out the stainless bolts holding the stanchion basses to the toe rail and removed the base and stanchion complete. Put the stanchion in the vice at home and took a blowlamp to the base. Got it really hot and the stanchion bolts came loose and the stancion pulled out. Both base and stanchion were re-useable.
 
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