stanchion bases again

owen

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i have to replace a couple of stanchions. they have corroded into the bases as is common. the base seems ok.getting the old base out would be difficult. i was wondering about cutting the old stanchion off flush with the base top and then drilling /milling out the corroded centre with a si carbide burr.. would this work any ideas gratefully received,
 

Avocet

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Don't see why not although it might be a bit difficult to control. I guess you'd go in with as big a drill as you could first, and then just take the rest out with the burr? If it was me, I might be tempted to drill it to the correct tapping size for (say) a 1/2" bolt and then screw the bolt down into it and see if the nose of the bolt can "push the core of material out of the socket. Of course, it might just crack the bottom of the stanchion base instead! Also, maybe drilling near the perimeter will allow it to collapse inwards a bit and be removed that way...
 

dickh

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I assume you are talking about the alloy stanchions in alloy bases which are bolted to the toerail and a bolt through the deck bit of the toerail with a nut underneath?
If so, one way is to drill out the heads of the ss c/sunk screws that hold the base to the toerail, then drill a series of small holes around the stanchion base, then lever it all apart. Messes up the bottom of the stanchion and the base so neither recoverable. I still have to do this as some of my bases have actually broken. Make sure any replacements have a plastic liner so it doesn't happen again!
Look on the MOA site:- http://www.moodyowners.org.uk/ where there is a lot of info - but you may have to be a member to access all the technical files.
 

AndrewB

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A FAQ this, you have done a search on earlier answers?

From my own experience, cutting off flush with the base and trying to drill or grind out the remainder of the stanchion is just too much hard work. Took me all day to do just one, wrecked several minature grinding wheels in the processs, and I had 12 to do! Eventually got it out by getting a couple of hack-saw cuts down the stanchion stub inside the base and chiselling out.

The remainder I did by cutting the old stanchions off about 5cm above base, then making a vertical cut downwards through both the stub and the base, to about half way down the base, at which point the stub could be removed by brute force. This consisted of opening the cut part of the base slightly with a chisel and using a wrench on the protruding part of the stub. The base was then tapped back into shape and the cuts were welded over - an advantage of having mild steel bases. With aluminium it would still be possible to repair the bases in situ with epoxy 'Super Steel', and perhaps reinforce them with a Jubilee clip thereafter.
 
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