stains on hull from cleaning teak deck

[D&T]

I have looked through previous posts for this problem, but can find an answer

I cleaned my teak decks with WESSEX two part cleaner, but the run off has left vertical stains on the hull ( blue hull), it was a sunny day , and it seems a lot worse on the sunward side. I have tried Y10, with no avail, then tried compound G8, then polish, with very slight improvement. However, using 1200 wet and dry, then compound followed by polish did get rid of the marks, but I am very wary of using wet and dry on gel coat because of the thickness. Also the number of streaks would make this a major job.

Does anyone have any advise please

The boat is in the water (marina)

Many thanks,

 

[Ripster]

I have looked through previous posts for this problem, but can find an answer

I cleaned my teak decks with WESSEX two part cleaner, but the run off has left vertical stains on the hull ( blue hull), it was a sunny day , and it seems a lot worse on the sunward side. I have tried Y10, with no avail, then tried compound G8, then polish, with very slight improvement. However, using 1200 wet and dry, then compound followed by polish did get rid of the marks, but I am very wary of using wet and dry on gel coat because of the thickness. Also the number of streaks would make this a major job.

Does anyone have any advise please

The boat is in the water (marina)

Many thanks,

You may have done tis already, but I would speak to Wessex and gain their input.

 

[Lucky Duck]

Ouch!

Looking at the warning about not getting the cleaner on non-teak surfaces (http://www.teakcleaner.co.uk/instructions.php), I'd go with more polish and plenty of elbow grease.

 

[D&T]

thanks for the advise so far

I have found on a previous thread, the suggestion of using Dilunett, which appears to be a grp friendly paint stripper, not sure how it will work on these streaks, how would it restore colour?

 

[pvb]

I have found on a previous thread, the suggestion of using Dilunett, which appears to be a grp friendly paint stripper, not sure how it will work on these streaks, how would it restore colour?

I can't see that Dilunett would help at all. Your first action should be to ask Wessex Chemical Factors for their advice.

 

[Marine Reflections]

I have looked through previous posts for this problem, but can find an answer

I cleaned my teak decks with WESSEX two part cleaner, but the run off has left vertical stains on the hull ( blue hull), it was a sunny day , and it seems a lot worse on the sunward side. I have tried Y10, with no avail, then tried compound G8, then polish, with very slight improvement. However, using 1200 wet and dry, then compound followed by polish did get rid of the marks, but I am very wary of using wet and dry on gel coat because of the thickness. Also the number of streaks would make this a major job.

Does anyone have any advise please

The boat is in the water (marina)

Many thanks,

You are doing the right thing.

The 2 part treatment is of course quite high PH and this needed to be washed off completely from all surfaces. Very difficult to do this whilst working on the task in hand, even more in the Sun.

The residue left to dry on any surfaces will attack any protection first, then if left for longer will work with the sun to speed up the breakdown of the surface.

Most under attack will be any anodising, window frames etc, followed by gel coat that is not in perfect condition.
If the gel coat is not in perfect condition it will not be able to shrug off the high PH or rinse off as easily and a build up of product can remain on these parts.
A thorough wash down of run off surfaces with water (whilst working on teak) with a tiny amount of wash is needed as a continuous effort.


The product has been held captive by the surface, it will breakdown the ingredients in the gel to oxidise faster, I have seen this quite a few times, where the 2 part run off has actually made the oxidation stronger on the various sections of a hull, highlighting the runs by etching themselves with the oxidation as a permanent feature. I'm no chemist, but I know it's not good to leave it working away in there for long.

The surfaces needed correction anyway, as is being demonstrated by your compounding, but most importantly the wet sanding.

Correction of the surface will take time, how long depends on how quickly you work through the stages required, but starting harsh and trying to restore the scratches made from your correction may make things worse, depending on how well that correction is finished or glossed up.

You say the compounding was having an effect, then I would opt for this type of grit approach (slower, yet safer) you can always offer another pass, but too much will see you in trouble.

Make sure the surface is dirt and grit free, so clean out the marks as best you can with acetone.

If it is on the entire hull then would be hard work if you did not use the correct tools, DA sander with foam grits from 1000 to 4000, rotary polisher, lambswool pad, decent compound/polish/wax.

You may be lucky and the height difference (correction needed) may be very light, it could be all you need is light polish under the use of a decent rotary, it just depends on the condition at present, do you have any pics, real close?