Stainless steel launching trolley for my trailer sailer

[Corribee Boy]

Like Crewman, my boat has a galvanised dolly with solid plastic wheels running on stub axles without bearings, suitable for immersion, that winches up on to a road trailer. I don't really trust the wheels so for long-distance transport so I jack the dolly up and remove the wheels before towing.

The channel widths on the trailer are wider than a standard car trailer, but flatbed trailers may only have a relatively thin plywood deck supported at relatively wide centres - suitable for carrying pallets but not capable of taking the point load of wheels - this may limit your idea of renting a trailer when required.

Just seen that I've directly contradicted Kelpie about flatbeds, but I know it's true of my Ifor Williams trailer!

 

[peterhull]

The "scary movement" caused by the pneumatic wheels can be prevented by building in something to take the load off the wheels, once loaded onto the road trailer, screwjacks come to mind. The ones used for levelling scaffolding might work, or perhaps the type used for steadying trailers, e.g. burger vans and the like. The structure would have to be robust, with a boat weighing 3/4 of a ton.

OK thanks, what about bunk support by the axle , won't these stabilise the boat on the trolley. both pics I have posted show this.

 

[peterhull]

Like Crewman, my boat has a galvanised dolly with solid plastic wheels running on stub axles without bearings, suitable for immersion, that winches up on to a road trailer. I don't really trust the wheels so for long-distance transport so I jack the dolly up and remove the wheels before towing.

The channel widths on the trailer are wider than a standard car trailer, but flatbed trailers may only have a relatively thin plywood deck supported at relatively wide centres - suitable for carrying pallets but not capable of taking the point load of wheels - this may limit your idea of renting a trailer when required.

Just seen that I've directly contradicted Kelpie about flatbeds, but I know it's true of my Ifor Williams trailer!

OK Thanks for that, I will bear that in mind.

 

[peterhull]

I think you will hard pushed to do this any easier/cheaper than using a caravan chassis for the road trailer, and a simple galvanised trolley.
Caravan chassis do get a bad rep when used as the basis of a trailer, because they are very wobbly and insubstantial, but in your case you can design the trolley to only load it at certain points, i.e. most of the weight goes on to the axle.
A flatbed trailer is going to be far more substantial (heavy+expensive) than a caravan chassis. This is because it is designed to take loads all over its bed and so it has to be quite strong and stiff. Likewise car transporters, where the weight is all concentrated on the four corners, as far from the axle as you can get. There's no need for you to take the cost and weight penalty of that.

mm interesting. I had never really considered a caravan chassis for the reasons you mention, but what about type approval for VOSA?

 

[Corribee Boy]

My boat's at home should you need information about design or anything: I allow for the boat weighing about 1.5 tonnes, which is also a challenge for trailer tyres.

 

[Kelpie]

mm interesting. I had never really considered a caravan chassis for the reasons you mention, but what about type approval for VOSA?

I'm not an authority on this but my understanding is that you can do what you like with a caravan chassis, it will be stamped/dated, and probably pretty old anyway.

 

[peterhull]

I'm not an authority on this but my understanding is that you can do what you like with a caravan chassis, it will be stamped/dated, and probably pretty old anyway.

I think if you modify a trailer it has to submitted for approval still. I looked into this some time ago. Then what about insurance cover for a non standard road trailer?

 

[peterhull]

My boat's at home should you need information about design or anything: I allow for the boat weighing about 1.5 tonnes, which is also a challenge for trailer tyres.

OK may take you upon that when the virus crisis is over thanks. I live in West Somerset and I have a friend who lives at Box, near Bath

 

[ribdriver]

Have a look at Mecanorem - MECANOREM Sommaire - Actualités
I came across them recently...seem to have lots of weird and wonderful trailers and trolleys.
I believe they are represented in the UK by The Pontoon and Dock Company or part thereof.

 

[peterhull]

Have a look at Mecanorem - MECANOREM Sommaire - Actualités
I came across them recently...seem to have lots of weird and wonderful trailers and trolleys.
I believe they are represented in the UK by The Pontoon and Dock Company or part thereof.

Thanks looks expensive though and quite specialised for boatyards but could be some ideas there. I want to keep it simple.

 

[LiftyK]

I always admire the stainless steel trailers from - Vanclaes BV when they exhibit at the Southampton boat show. Have a look at their website and see if gives you some ideas on how to proceed.

 

[DownWest]

I am in the same situation for the little T/S taking shape. Weight about 550kg and 17'6". Draft 18". Plan is to use a four wheeled dolly, winched up onto a ramped trailer. I will probably not use stainless, but get it galvanized, except for the axle stubs on the dolly. I have drawn a 'kneeler' suspension system to drop the main frame onto the ground, but will skip the complexity and use hinged ramps, with the main ramps set low. The actual cost of a simple dolly in stainless would probably compare with fabricating and galvanizing a plain steel one, not to mention the hassle of getting to the galv place and back. Might change my mind on that. I have plenty of experience in building trailers, so it the cost of the materials only. The big prob is type approval, tricky here. Likely I will get it done in UK and 'import' it here. One of the problems of using a s/h flatbed is it is likely designed for carring a car, so the unladen weight will be higher than a purpose built one and probable with the boat on exceed the towing weight for my car. BTW, this combo is for true trailer sailing, not seasonal transport, so I am aiming for 20 min launching/recovery time.

 

[peterhull]

I always admire the stainless steel trailers from - Vanclaes BV when they exhibit at the Southampton boat show. Have a look at their website and see if gives you some ideas on how to proceed.

Yes I have seen their web site. i suspect they are expensive I think it is a Dutch Company and import to Uk dealers. Ye maybe some ideas there.

 

[peterhull]

I am in the same situation for the little T/S taking shape. Weight about 550kg and 17'6". Draft 18". Plan is to use a four wheeled dolly, winched up onto a ramped trailer. I will probably not use stainless, but get it galvanized, except for the axle stubs on the dolly. I have drawn a 'kneeler' suspension system to drop the main frame onto the ground, but will skip the complexity and use hinged ramps, with the main ramps set low. The actual cost of a simple dolly in stainless would probably compare with fabricating and galvanizing a plain steel one, not to mention the hassle of getting to the galv place and back. Might change my mind on that. I have plenty of experience in building trailers, so it the cost of the materials only. The big prob is type approval, tricky here. Likely I will get it done in UK and 'import' it here. One of the problems of using a s/h flatbed is it is likely designed for carring a car, so the unladen weight will be higher than a purpose built one and probable with the boat on exceed the towing weight for my car. BTW, this combo is for true trailer sailing, not seasonal transport, so I am aiming for 20 min launching/recovery time.

Yes thanks for your interest. I agree with a lot you have written. I think one of the problems with stainless is fatigue. Stainless is less tensile than mild steel and has a tendency to crack under load. I have witnessed a thick stainless shackle break and drop to the deck on a traditional gaff rigged ketch I helped bring back to the UK from S France a few years ago. Should have used galvanised one I think. Yes weight is a problem. I am not familiar with the kneeler suspension may have to look this up. Type approval can be achieved for an individual , have a look at the VOSA web site. It will cost money though but not as much as a commercial company.

 

[Seajet]

Unless things have changed a lot I think you're unlikely to find a trailer for hire; people like the now gone Hayling Trailers used to offer this, but found the trailer /s usually came back having been dunked in salt water despite promises not to, and other abuse.

Another point, if your trailer sailer has a lift keel, wintering her on a trailer / trolley would render the keel plate inaccessible for vital maintenence - I just have my boat hoisted onto high trestles at the club.

 

[peterhull]

Unless things have changed a lot I think you're unlikely to find a trailer for hire; people like the now gone Hayling Trailers used to offer this, but found the trailer /s usually came back having been dunked in salt water despite promises not to, and other abuse.

Another point, if your trailer sailer has a lift keel, wintering her on a trailer / trolley would render the keel plate inaccessible for vital maintenance - I just have my boat hoisted onto high trestles at the club.

Ok yes , thanks but I intend to restore this presently and copper coat the plate and the casing. So hopefully I won't need much maintenance for a few years. my intention was to use a normal low loading trade trailer not a boat trailer as such

 

[DownWest]

Kneeler suspension is when the trailing arms and springs can be pivoted up to drop the frame.
Way back, when Lotus sold Elans as kits, they came out of the factory on a sort of bedstead, sans suspension and engine/gearbox. This then needed several blokes to manhandle onto a trailer for delivery.
We built them special trailers which had no centre structure, just side members. Four wheel independed suspension with Aeon rubber springs. Two of the wheels could be jacked down with hydraulic rams to lift the car off the bedstead, then back down and driven away. One guy, the driver, did this and there was a space up front, with a hoist for the engine etc. Client was told to supply something to reverse the process at the far end. Mr Chapman was most impressed when we demoed the first one.
For the boat, the the system could be similar, just lowering the frame rather than raising it. But prob easier to put the channels low and use ramps. I can get them under a foot off the ground with out complex framing.

 

[Seajet]

OK if the boat is brand new you'll probably get away without maintenence to the keel plate for a few years, but I've found antifouling the plate is the least of concerns; more a case of galvanic corrosion ( well worth a look if anodes are an idea after the first season or two no matter what builders say ), and if the plate is pivoted, ' wave jiggling wear ' to the pivot pin and associated elongations of the hole in the plate + attachment area for a lift wire.

 

[William_H]

Well I have been dunking my trailer in water for 40 years. I won't say it has been maintenance free and I confess the brakes were removed long ago. The back half of the chassis has been replaced. However I do not find it onerous to jack it up and "do" the bearings virtually ever dunking. But in my case I don't tow it very far and when I get there the ramp (you call it a slip) is reasonably steep so yes the bearings go under but only just. (reminds me I must do the bearings right now) I also only launch and retrieve once per season. But I still reckon OP would be better off putting his energy into maintenance of a dunking road trailer. ol'will

 

[John the kiwi]

In NZ and Australia it is easy and cheap to buy hub stubs and bearing kits for boat trailers. There are legions of trailered power boats and a good few trailer yachts like mine.
These hubs have marine seals and when used with Bearing Buddy or similar dust caps are effectively waterproof. I submerge mine every time i launch and retrieve my 7.8 metre trailer yacht and haven,t changed a wheel bearing for at least 4 years of regular use. The trailer has to pass roadworthy inspection each 6 months and would fail if bearings were at all compromised.


Link here for example: https://goughtwl.co.nz/images/produ...rts Equipment Catalogue 2015 2017 Update.pdf

Surprised you cant buy similar in the UK?

As for trailer structure, stainless is wonderful stuff but comes with its own problems such as fatigue cracking and cost.
I built my trailer out of open channel section mild steel and had it shot blasted and zinc sprayed. (Its a long way to the nearest zinc dip bath.) two years on i am still happy with the result.
You could do the same with the angle iron trailer in an earlier post and it would most likely be a lot cheaper than Stainless steel.