Stainless Steel D shackle

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chockswahay

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Just wondering if anyone has used the HR D shackle from S3i.co.uk? It looks like a nice and strong shackle that will fit my 8mm chain to my 15Kg Spade anchor.

D Shackle 6mm High Resistance Stainless Steel, 17/4PH (edit to say look at the 10mm version)

Whilst I would like the Crosby G209A it won’t fit 8mm chain without a bit of jiggery poker. It looks to me as if the 10mm HR D shackle will fit and I like the idea of being able to seize it instead of using Locktite with a countersunk pin.

I am in the final throws or updating our anchoring kit (many thanks to Vyv and Jonathan) and the jury is out on whether or not to include a Kong Swivel so I am looking at simple alternative.

Any thoughts anyone?

Thank you
 
Last edited:
I must have missed something

First up - you really don't want to use a 'D' shackle it does not articulate and if you did load the anchor then you will increase the lever arm, slightly, of the shank but will side load the shackle, see next paragraph.

Your 8mm chain, G30 has a Minimum Break load of 3,000kgs and if G40, 4,000kgs. Historically G30 chain has had a n actual strength near G40 (in fact some chain makes considered rebranding their G30 as G40). The shackle you quote, 6mm? has a break load of 2,700kg in a straight line which will be reduced by 25% loaded at 45 degrees and a reduction of 50% if loaded at 90 degrees (though 90 degrees does seem unlikely (if not impossible), I have tested these loading angles though not with this specific shackle and the data is about right (might vary with different shackles). The shackles costs peanuts, the chain costs a lot more - yet the rode will be reduced in strength to the cheapest component.

Loctite is perfectly safe - but ignoring the issue of seizing the chain you really do need to accept another solution.

Enlarging the end link is one option, using a omega link or hammerlock another solution - but I am surprised the clevis pin of 3/8th" Crosby does not fit. If you have friends in the US then Peerless and Campbell make shackles of a similar quality to the Crosby G209a range and though these shackles, ostensibly look the same there are minor variations which might allow a Peerless or Campbell shackle to fit. There are other options for shackles from Asia - if you let me know the exact size of the hole in your 8mm link I can compare with the shackles I have collected and make a check of what might fit.

Now the chance of you being subject, or you subjecting the shackle, to the tensions described, 50% of 2,700kg, is unlikely (if not impossible) but its a yacht, funny things happen and for a few bits of loose change - I would search for another solution.

Jonathan
 
Hi Jonathan, the internet link I put in my post defaults to the 6 mm shackle however I did say 10mm which is the one I am considering. It has a break load of 7500 Kg so I am factoring this in my reckoning.
Another option is the Wichard 10mm Bow shackle but this appears less strong and more expensive!

Wichard - 8mm Bow Shackle - High Resistance Stainless Steel (note look at the 10mm version)

I take on board all your views as you know however I am just trying to make pragmatic sense of all this. My other option (shock horror hehe) is a Kong 2000kg swivel to 3 links of 12 mm chain to Crosby G209A.

(I have just edited my original post to refer to the 10mm by the ‘clicky link’)
 
Sorry - I thought you meant the 6mm as that was what the link brought up :(. It did surprise me - at least that is cleared up!

To me the costs are not significant, or they are significant in themselves but not when you consider they secure the yacht. I do confess that as I'd suggest buying 2 - they do start to become significant. its terribly easy to drop a shackle pin (been there, done that).

Another source is Petersen, how come someone in Oz is offering this info - he needs to get out more :) )

www.petersen-stainless.co.uk

I think they are based in Newcastle.

Look at their shackles. I had a quick look at the WLL for the 10mm shackles looked a bit 'low' - but maybe I should have been more patient.

They are also distributor for Ketten Waelder who also make shackles and they might be a good option (but expensive). Their Cromox range is a G60 quality and they make chain to standard metric sizes (whereas Crosby are making to imperial sizes). so they might fit the chain, if not your wallet. The Crosby G209a is a G80 quality and I think you will find it difficult to find a G80 x 10mm stainless shackle.

My fall back is Omega links and then hammerlocks (and you might have someone who uses hammerlocks make a post in their support0. We are using them.

Jonathan
 
Amlov said:
A simple question: when using a bow shackle does the pin go through the anchor or the chain?
Click to expand...

The bow of the shackle should go through the anchor but you need a slot in the anchor to do that.

This allows better articulator of the anchor / chain connection
 
Well, I’m sorted anyway :) I like the HR shackle but prefer the Crosby so gone with that...... also gives me the excuse to buy a Kong swivel etc blah blah blah .

I just hope this thread does not turn into the perpetual swivel/shackle debate. I’m working on the basis that if it’s good enough for Vyv it’s good enough for me (with a nod to Jonathans case for Crosby hehe)

Cheers
 
Swivels, as long as they are well made (Kong fits that requirement) are useful if you are prepared to stand at the bow and manually rotate the anchor to the correct orientation. But to take out one twist of the chain, or half a twist, there is simply too much friction (made worse when in use as the bearing (can it really be called a bearing) will have sand in it). A swivel will also detract from the performance of your anchor. When modern anchors set the toe and the shackle end of the shank bury roughly together. So the shackle and some chain is pulled into the seabed as the fluke buries. Anything with a greater surface area than the chain (which includes the shackle) hinders the burial of the shank. One reason for using a HT steel in the shank is to allow a thinner shank, reducing its surface area and aiding in burial. using a swivel ngates that design characteristic. This is also an advantage of using smaller chain - you bury more chain (and buried chain resists yawing, unto a poin).

Anchor Swivels: Caution Required - Practical Sailor

How Well Do Swivels Reduce Twist? - Practical Sailor

A Boomerang, which you can make yourself, could have made by a local machine shop, your local anchor maker (Knox) or on line, Anchor Right, Viking, has a smaller surface area than the equivalent length of chain, helps (marginally) to reduce the impact of yawing and self rights the anchor without human intervention. Perfect if you have windlass controls at the helm, or its raining :(

How to boomerang your anchor right back at you - MySailing.com.au.

Stay safe, take care

Jonathan
 
Well, whilst I don’t want a debate on here........ I looked at my anchor and roller set up as it is and dropped and raised the hook a dozen times (on pontoon so not under load or deep) and I noticed that the shank would twist over the roller and then put a significant twist on the last few feet of chain causing the manual windlass to ‘chatter’ a little and was a little harder to work. also the anchor came up 3 times the wrong way round and although would self rotate eventually as it came over the roller the movement was violent and could cause damage to the bow. Even if the swivel only serves to make the last part easier and safer then I am happy.

As for the reduction in performance on the floor I remain sceptical, the Spade is a VERY GOOD anchor.

We all see life from different perspectives and we have to make our own choice, I have made mine and it is the right one for me :):)
 
I don't quite share your faith in swivels :(

If you know anyone nearby who has a spare or would lend you a swivel for 30 minutes I's suggest giving it a try. You are proposing to buy a fairly expensive bit of kit and having bought it you will feel very disappointed if it does not achieve what you expect.

When you rig up the new swivel you will have a few links between swivel and anchor. The sequence will then be, chain comes over the roller, followed by the swivel. Swivel will clear the roller before the rotated anchor arrives at the bow roller, the anchor will now self right (by itself) and the twists in the chain will fall out (hopefully). But the anchor will still not self right until it actually arrives at the bow roller and is forced to self right as result of its design (unless you stop operating the windlass and poke the anchor into obedience using a stick (aka boathook, broom handle).

Try it, or buy on the understanding you can return it, should it not meet expectations.

I'm surprised the anchor arrived 'twisted' on your bow roller. If it had been consistent I'd have suggest looking at the links carefully to check you are not using the wrong link. (You simply check that if the links enter your gypsy vertically then check down the bit of chain between gypsy and anchor and make sure the link attached to the shackle is also 'vertical' - with no twists nor half twists. However you said you tried a dozen times so this seems unlikely.

Good luck

Jonathan
 
Our preference is for a swivel. Following suggestions on here a few years ago that I was 'blinkered' or words to that effect, we went a whole season without one. We suffered chain twisting that seemed to cause distress to the windlass. Jill, who works the foredeck, could not turn the anchor the right way up, needing me to come forward to do it, often very inconvenient.

I have not tried a Boomerang but I did buy a cranked Osculati swivel that has a similar function. Surprisingly we found that it led to holding difficulties, possibly due to fouling in conjunction with my 'three chain links' technique, so we dumped it after about a week and went back to the Kong.
 
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