stainless steel chafe plate how thick ?

simonfraser

simonfraser

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i need some chafe protection.

i can order 0.9 1.2 1.5 2.0 mm thick.

the plates are small, 50 x 80mm and need to be bend round a thumb size radius.

there is some old epoxy under one section which i want to hide.

so, what thickness can i bend by hand but will be sturdy enough to hide the crud underneath ?

tnx.
 
It does'nt answer your question but,I considered some self adhesive stainless plates called'Wear and Tear Pads' for Caiman.At £12 for a 6"x2" piece I considered them too extravagent.They will bend around a curve though.Old 'aluminium' road signs are a good source of raw material for chafe pads.They are an alloy,not pure aluminium,and so do not oxidise as much.I used loads of this stuff on a race bike project a few years ago,and will be using it on Caiman when I get that far on the 'todo' list.
Cheers
 
Ha ! it's the footprint of the :

"It does'nt answer your question but,I considered some self adhesive stainless plates called'Wear and Tear Pads' for Caiman.At £12 for a 6"x2" "

that i need to hide, did not want to make a BIG fuss, but three of the four i bought have popped off leaving a fringging mess. two have left the sticky stuff behind :((

that's after i have re stuck a third one with epoxy, now the epoxy is on my beam but the plate has come off, am i fed up or what ?!


shall stick the new plates on with 291 and be done with it.
 
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That is interesting to know,and it looks like I've avoided an expensive exercise.I must admit that I am proposing to self tap the ally pads onto the ply, on a bed of epoxy.I've got 5 places to cover.One on each ama where the mooring bridal passes,one each side of the cockpit to take care of the jib sheets,and one under the point where the tiller joins the rudder stock.With the advent of TomTom,nobody will miss a couple of road signs:o.
Cheers
 
simonfraser said:
i need some chafe protection.

i can order 0.9 1.2 1.5 2.0 mm thick.

the plates are small, 50 x 80mm and need to be bend round a thumb size radius.

there is some old epoxy under one section which i want to hide.

so, what thickness can i bend by hand but will be sturdy enough to hide the crud underneath ?

tnx.
Click to expand...
I supply hollow oval strip for just this purpose, you can see some here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....85593&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1154
 
Someone gave me a sheet of stainless and I've cut two plates and bent them to go over the gunwhale where the mooring strops rub after leaving the fairleads.
I was wondering about bonding them with Sikaflex. Others already on the boat have been pop-riveted as well, which I wanted to avoid. 291 would surely give enough grip, wouldn't it? 292 is rather expensive for a small job like that.

See the mark where the grp has been rubbed.

furlingdrumriggingscrew.jpg
 
I used Sikaflex to bond a plate where the headsail furling line was chafing the cockpit coating.

It was still there, perfectly secure, when I sold the boat.

The plate was highly polished and the lead of the line and the load tended to keep it in place. I could see a problem if it projected so that the lead of the rope was such that it could foul one side or end of the plate.

As a point of interest, the plate was cut from the inner lining of a dead dishwasher ...
 
Lakesailer,tell me to mind my own business,but the fully adjusted at one end bottle screw,seems to be exerting a significant bending load onto your fitting,undoubtedly helped by the leverage obtained where the cheek plates are bolted to it.I think that maybe the cracks in the deck,and the fitting lifting at the front, might be caused by this.Mild steel split pin?Split rings on standing rigging?If the lock nuts come loose on the bottle screw,will the action of the roller reefing try to undo the bottle screw ,causing it to come apart?See foot note,it's your boat.Only trying to help.
Main Marine also added to favorites!!
Cheers
 
I've added you as a 'friend' but being new to these forums,I don't really know what this means.
Nice to communicate with another 'cat and a half' owner,they are few and far between at this latitude.Just had a 25 mile sail on Caiman,steady at 9k at one stage,F3 NW,motoring at another(charged the battery though).Got any pics/vids of your tri?Kicking and screaming, I am being slowly dragged into the 20th century, and have managed to post a few vids on You Tube.Unfortunatly my new found gizmological prowess, does not extend to being able to post them in the multihull section,search 888Caiman.
(please turn the sound down,the wind noise,meterogical and verbal are a pain).
Now I'm showing you mine,will you show me yours?:rolleyes:
Cheers:D
 
caiman said:
the fully adjusted at one end bottle screw,seems to be exerting a significant bending load onto your fitting,undoubtedly helped by the leverage obtained where the cheek plates are bolted to it.I think that maybe the cracks in the deck,and the fitting lifting at the front, might be caused by this.
Click to expand...
I see where you are coming from but rest assured that the cantilevered forestay attachment is only one month old and the cracks and distortion of the stemhead fitting are much older. The bottle screw is not threadbound at either end. This is merely a jury rig to determine if the arrangement works. The luff wire on the drum is taking over the tension of the forestay when I get around to sorting it. (Done now actually, since the photo).
Mild steel split pin?Split rings on standing rigging?If the lock nuts come loose on the bottle screw,will the action of the roller reefing try to undo the bottle screw ,causing it to come apart?
Click to expand...
The split pin looked like stainless but obviously is not so will be changed.
Split rings. No problem.
Furling gear unwinding bottle screw? Nah.
If you want even more horror, the link between the drum and the bottle screw is a shackle. :eek:

I day sail on a lake. These things are perfectly acceptable to me.
 
Lakesailor,thank you for giving me a good explanation to allay my concerns percived incorrectly from the pic.
I have no problem with secured shackles.I would like to know why we don't use graded, and stamped with a BS standard,nuts and bolts of the correct length, to hold our mast up,rather than an anomynous clevis pin.
I apologise for going off thread.-good sail and too many magners.
simonfraser,if you want a bit of ally,PM me.
Cheers
 
simonfraser said:
i need some chafe protection.

i can order 0.9 1.2 1.5 2.0 mm thick.

the plates are small, 50 x 80mm and need to be bend round a thumb size radius.

there is some old epoxy under one section which i want to hide.

so, what thickness can i bend by hand but will be sturdy enough to hide the crud underneath ?

tnx.
Click to expand...

I made chafe plates from 0.9mm stainless and fixed them with small stainless self tappers.

The bit's of stainless I had were about the same size as yours.

The thinner material seams to wear well and is easier to form into shape.

I have fitted two at the stern near the mooring cleats and another pair on a corner of the coach roof where the control lines for the genoa cars were causing chafe.

Iain
 
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