St Aldelms head Overfalls

PBrook

Active Member
Joined
4 Jul 2008
Messages
64
Location
Poole, Dorset, UK
h20-ciaobella.blogspot.com
Hello, Due to the lack of info in the almanac and having searched google extensively, I am looking for advice on getting through the tidal race and overfalls off Durleston Point and St Aldelms head in Dorset.
I have a 19ft bilge keeler and ended up battling through last year and I don't want to make the same mistake again.
Specific questions are:
1. What time window before / after hw and at what port is best to make the journey West?
2. What time window before / after hw and at what port is best to make the journey East?
3. How much difference does wind direction make to the overfalls and which should I avoid?
4. I've seen posts about an inshore passage, is it safe and when would you use it?
Any other sensible advice gratefully accepted.
 
Most of my info is now on the boat but the inshore passage is within quarter mile of the coast from memory. Heading in either direction I use the tide to save battling against fast tides, up to 6 knots. To miss overfalls you will need to go around 5 miles offshore. Wind against tide, up to F4 seems ok for me. Have been through the overfalls in flat calm and hit a 6 ft wall of water so won't do that again in a hurry.
 
Slack water at St Albans is around 30 minutes before HW Dover and there is an inshore back eddy of tide running from Poole along to St Albans for about 1.5-2hrs before then. In the eddy the tide may not be much in favour of going west, but it will at worst be only very slightly against you whereas a bit farther out it could be running quite strong still. By inshore, I mean very close inshore. That means passing close by Anvil point (but not inside Peveril Ledge buoy) and then very close to St Albans Head itself, local race boats will tack right up to it as it is very steep to and deep close in. This takes you inside the race which on the west going tide will be SW of the Head and on an east going one NE of the Head. Rough water usually runs along from Anvil to St Albans but close inshore it is much better, not completely calm but very much better.

If you want to go outside of the race then go a long way out, like say 2mls at least and remember the race (going west) will extend out SW from the head itself. You can usually see the overfalls clearly enough.

Wind against tide will always make the overfalls even worse. Since you will always want to be travelling with the tide (going against it isn't really an option unless you have a big boat and/or big engine) then you will often find wind against tide going one way or the other as it isn't easy to be there at slack water every time. If caught in the overfalls, the best option is to shut the hatches and just let the tide carry you through, without trying to battle the seas which will shake all the wind out of the sails and make steering difficult, same goes even under engine as the seas will be of the bash crash stop dead and start again variety. Neap tides always better than springs of course.

The eastgoing return is usually better as the odds are in favour of having wind and tide together. You just need to remember that the west going eddy that was a friend going west is not helpful close inshore headed home, so aim to be say past Anvil Point or Swanage at least 90 minutes before HWD or alternatively stay farther offshore where the stream is still eastgoing until about HW Dover. The race going east will be east of St Albans and rough water running along from the to say half way as far as Anvil point. Stay close inshore to avoid the worst of the overfalls, clipping St Albans itself very close and once again you should be able to see the overfalls and hopefully avoid them.
 
From my almanac:

St Albans

"Off the head the dangerous race varies in position and severity. It extends 3M seaward, less in S winds.

Overfalls extend 2 1/2M further SW on the ebb than on the flood and are much more dangerous. Either avoid the race by giving the head a berth of 3 1/2M or in good weather and offshore winds use the 1/2M wide passage between the head and the race (passage can narrow to 50m in some conditions).

Close inshore E-going stream starts at Dover +0500, offshore at Dover +0600. The W-going stream starts at Dover -0020.

There is deep water close inshore between the head and Anvil Pt. From Anvil Pt to Peveril Pt rough water is frequent. Durlston Hd has a castellated bldg on top; Peveril Pt has a rocky ledge running 1/4M to seaward with R can buoy at end. Stream sets towards the ledge. In bad weather a dangerous race runs seaward of the buoy especially to SE with W-going stream.

On sp ebbs streams around Anvil and Peveril Pts are stronger close inshore than further out."

Hope it helps.
 
Slack water is best. Actual strategy depends on where you are going. If you just want to go to Chapman Pool or Worbarrow, then leave Poole entrance roughly 6 hours before low water and you will carry the tide all the way and get to the inshore passage when the flow has slackened. However in SW winds you will be tacking down the coast and you will still find overfalls inshore, but only for a short distance. If you are going straight to Weymouth or Portland, go offshore south of the overfalls.

The general rule is go with the tide, but recognise that going into the wind wil usually result in bigger waves. Realistically you are always likely to get bashed about a bit in a small yacht.
 
Robin sums it very well and I can only add that there is nearly always a clockwise current in Chapmans pool bay and that the inshore passage, is probably better named the alongside shore passage! One rarely gets away without some washing machine motion, especially travelling East after the point has been rounded. Engine running is the order of the day.
 
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