SS screws soft heads

andrewbartlett

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Has anyone experienced difficulty in driving stainless steel screws into wood and finding that before the function is complete the screw top slot has become disfunctional due to the soft nature of the screw material . How can this be overcome?
 

Babylon

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1. Use a bit of the correct diameter to drill a pilot hole. Depth of pilot to immersed part of the screw less a couple of mm so the tip bites into virgin wood at the end. If threaded part of screw stops short of underside of head, then drill a clearance hole for that last section.

2. Lubricate the screw with a bit of candle-wax (or polishing wax paste) before driving in, which also helps in later removal of screw.

3. Use a correctly-sized slot-tip screwdriver, else you'll properly mank the screw-head slot.

4. If using countersunk screws, prefer those with a cross-head: Posi or Philips, but beware that they are of different designs and each come in different sizes, so are not interchangable - unless you want damaged screwdriver tips and damaged screws.

5. Other tip designs include Torx, Star, etc (especially for pan-head screws). Its worth picking up a box of mixed magnetised tips which can be mounted in a hand-held driver as well as a cordless. That way you'll have the right tip for most screwheads you'll encounter.

The only Torx head I've so far encountered on my boat is for the Selden Furlex screws. At least they supplied the tips with the Furlex from new.

All very boring.

PS If using a CSK (countersunk) screw, then drill a countersink into the wood using a correctly-sized countersunk bit first.
 
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bluerm166

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I sometimes prefer a traditional slot head stainless screw with a plain shank.They do require a proper 'pilot' hole and importantly the use of a screwdriver that fits firmly into the slot plus the ability to work square-on to the screwhead.If you are forced to work at an angle then a crosshead will be easier to sustain proper contact.
 

oldbilbo

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Of course and as every skoolboi kno, when fixing smart brass screws into oak, do do a proper pilot hole first, then drive a conventional steel screw lubricated with Vaseline ( 'cos the tub of stuff is handy and the screw can just be dipped in ) into said proper 'ole, then remove steel and substitute brass.

I knew this years and years ago. Guess what I got wrong when fitting an oak door to an oak frame recently....?
 

30boat

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Besides drilling properly and lublricating the thread apply a little bit of toothpaste to the slot or bit.That'll stop the bit from jumping off and ruining the slot.Better still is valve grinding paste but that is grease based and may contaminate the wood.
 

Avocet

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Good quality and CORRECTLY FITTING screwdriver bits are essential. Also, the longer the screwdriver the more you can wiggle it without upsetting the angle of the tip too much.
 

TonyBuckley

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It's not the screwing in that normally gives me a prob but getting the buggers out sometimes.

I have read that if the head starts to churn then put a large rubber band between the head and screwdriver. Once a little raised then normally easy with mole grips. Not tried that yet but I will.
 

vyv_cox

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The yield strength of 300 series stainless steels is only about 50 % of their UTS. They are cold stamped to give them some strength via work hardening but basically they will always be lacking in strength compared with carbon steel. A pilot hole is the answer, although I'm surprised the slot is the weak point - mine usually shear just below the head!
 

CreakyDecks

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A pilot hole is the answer...

A pilot hole drilled in two operations at that! The "normal" screw profile with a threaded and unthreaded part is actually for securing two pieces of wood together with one piece drilled to a clearance diameter. If you are attaching something thin, like a hinge, with this type of screw then you should really drill down to the depth of the unthreaded part at the diameter required for clearance, not just drill a pilot hole of the diameter required for the thread, otherwise the unthreaded part will probably jam on its way in and certainly jam as the wood "recovers" over time. This unique behaviour of wood is what makes nailing possible.
 
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