Vitalba
Well-Known Member
Right on the waterline of Vitalba`s steeply raked transom is a plank which sprung by about .375" at the top edge only. This tapers to nothing about afoot or so along the plank. In other words the plank has twisted or rather straightened as it requires to twist in order to adhere to the profile of the transom.
The plank is attached to the transom and its doubler by three screws the bottom two are no.12 by 2" and the top one is no.14 (.246"dia.) which has sheared where the thread meets the shank leaving the threaded portion still embedded. Whether the "untwisting" of the plank caused this or it happened when the the plank was "pulled down" at some stage is unknown. Subsequentlythe gap was filled with a large qty. of epoxy now removed. There seems no way to use a clamp to pull the plank into position but fortunately 24" forward are the anode mounting holes and by attaching an 8 foot lever by means of a bolt through one of these the plank can sprung back to within .125" of its original position. By altering the entry angle of the top (broken) screw the counterbore in the plank can be reused for a new no.14 by 3.5" Bronze screw.
I am concerned however that in trying to pull the plank into position I shall either split the plank or shear the screw.
Would dampening and/or heating the last couple of feet of the plank be really worthwhile and if so how to do it ? And is it worth doing a trial run with a large washer (to spread the load) with or without heat/steam. Planks are .875" thick Mahogany.
Comment and Bright Ideas greatfully received. VITALBA
The plank is attached to the transom and its doubler by three screws the bottom two are no.12 by 2" and the top one is no.14 (.246"dia.) which has sheared where the thread meets the shank leaving the threaded portion still embedded. Whether the "untwisting" of the plank caused this or it happened when the the plank was "pulled down" at some stage is unknown. Subsequentlythe gap was filled with a large qty. of epoxy now removed. There seems no way to use a clamp to pull the plank into position but fortunately 24" forward are the anode mounting holes and by attaching an 8 foot lever by means of a bolt through one of these the plank can sprung back to within .125" of its original position. By altering the entry angle of the top (broken) screw the counterbore in the plank can be reused for a new no.14 by 3.5" Bronze screw.
I am concerned however that in trying to pull the plank into position I shall either split the plank or shear the screw.
Would dampening and/or heating the last couple of feet of the plank be really worthwhile and if so how to do it ? And is it worth doing a trial run with a large washer (to spread the load) with or without heat/steam. Planks are .875" thick Mahogany.
Comment and Bright Ideas greatfully received. VITALBA