Spray Painting Hull

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Howardnp

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Does anyone have any expeerience of spray painting a hull with Epifane 2 part polyuerathane paint (apologies if spelling is a bit off!).
It is technique and things to watch out for rather than the issues of properly masking the areas, using breathing apparatus etc etc that I'm after.
I'm happy with spray painting it is using this stuff that I need info on as I haven't used the product before.... recommended as follow on from applying West System Epoxy to hull.
Many thanks - assuming I get a response of course!
 
Sorry the spelling I was referring to was the paint not my inability to spell experience and any other words I may have got wrong /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
G'day Howard,

I run a #2 tip and around 55 PSI maximum after thinning by 5%.
Let it stand for at least 5 minutes after mixing and pouring into the spray pot, this will allow the reaction to start and reduce trapped air that may cause some spitting when spraying.

This product dries very fast, so have access set up all the way around before you start.

Erect a shade for the side of the hull if the sun is out.....

Spray only very light coats for the first 2 or even 3 laps, if you see a gloss finish behind the gun at this time it's too thick.
When you apply your finish coat, look for a light gloss line behind the spray pattern on this coat.

Don't start before 10:30 AM and finish before 2:30 PM to avoid humidity problems, 74% is about the upper limit for most.

I hope this helps, no doubt others will also add a few more tips.

Avagoodweekend.
 
don't allow dew to form on freshly painted surfaces even though they may appear to have 'set'. problems resulting will show up weeks or months later.
 
Many thanks for the advice... having a go at it over the week end (Easter) so fingers crossed. The boat is undercover in a big workshop so humidity may not be such a big issue, nevertheless will keep an eye on it.
 
I wouldnt bother spraying. Too mush hassle.

You have to mask EVERYTHING including nearby vehicles, houses etc.
you have to get the viscosity just right.
and you need more paint
If you are outside, even the lightest breeze will deflect your spray, causing uneven effect - runs and bald patches.

No No, better to roll. use fine nap "suede" roller - very quick and easy, you follow a few seconds behind with a used soft paintbrush to "lay" the surface (and for doing really difficult corners)

what brush marks you get will be a lot less ugly than the spray "orange peel" effect.

Then nothing to wash out (except the tip of the brush) just chuck out the roller. stuff in the tray goes hard.
 
Wash the hull with preperation solvents and several clean white lint free rags. Any contamination from finger prints, diesel engines running in the area or upwind etc will have a fish eye effect.

Wear painters overalls, some people spray in woolen jumpers and the fibres from the jumper end up effecting the finish.
 
Take the advice of Oldsaltoz all very good.

Here is my twopensworth.

I use a 1.2mm tip.

Always dilute to the specified viscosity with the correct spraying thinner.

I drive my face mask from a seperate compressor which is well upwind from the boat. I also replace the visor with a new one before each boat.

Make sure there is adequate lighting otherwise you may be tempted to remove the mask to look for defects.

I keep everyone well away unless they are wearing air fed masks.

You will know yourself what clothing to wear.

If you mix larger quantity than the paint pot can take make sure that you seal the mixing container while you are spraying. The solvent in the paint evaporates so quickly that if you don't do that the viscosity will thicken between paint pot fillings.

The paint dries so quickly that you can work round and round the hull coat upon coat. Make certain the staging will allow you to do this.

I have sprayed outside and inside. On the right day and the right location I prefer outside.

Iain
 
G'day Iain,

Thanks for the follow up, interesting that you use a 1.2 tip, I have problems getting the full gloss with less a 1.8 and use a 2.0 most of the time unless the paint is very thin, I have to closer to the job with smaller tips and increase the risk of sags or runs. perhaps I'm just a slower being an ' black enamel basket weaver' will do that.

I have used the full sand blasters headgear complete with cold air, very nice, but I have to take the big compressor from the workshop to run it, and that's a pain in the you know what.

I like the sound of your air supply unit Iain, does it provide cool air? and what sort of oil is in the compressor?

On cooler days (and we don't get many of them) I use a belt mounted filter box and battery powered blower, but they supply warm air, so it's not used often. My staple is the M3 mask, twin filters and tear off clear film, can't even smell the paint through them, filters are good for about 6 litres of paint, 10 if you don't mind a bit of resistance, and I don't.

Good even lighting is critical, plenty of fluro lights are good, no shadows, a large white tarp, or a couple of old white bed sheets hung in the sun on the shady side of the hull make a huge difference too.

Because it dries so fast I often mix in the gun pot to ensure none is left to start reacting when spraying the rest on. I also like to give the paint a really good stir with a drill, then box it (tip from one can to another several times) and stand it in the shade for 20 minutes to let the bubbles out prior to adding part 'B'.

Like you, I much prefer spraying outside you can see more and get more fresh air over the new coating, and less fall out as well.

Hope you all hadagoodeaster...........
 
well guys not much i can say after all that.
all i could add is maybe a bit more to surface preparation. e.g. solvent wash entire hull and possible stripe coat before application of spray coat.
stripe coat will ensure proper build up of coatings into difficult to reach areas with guns. you guys mentioned size 1 and 2 tips, what is that in metric?

17 -19 mm etc
 
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