Porthandbuoy
Well-Known Member
Which is best?
And why?
And why?
Split pins or rings?
- Thread starter Porthandbuoy
- Start date
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Rings are a <span style="color:black">bu</span><span style="color:black">gger</span> to put on when stepping the mast. Split pins are a <span style="color:black">bu</span><span style="color:black">gger</span> to remove when unstepping.
Shanty
Well-Known Member
Rings, if something snags on them, can get pulled out of shape, and right out of the pin. Split pins have sharp ends that can catch the unwary.
So, rings at deck level where you can keep an eye on them, split pins aloft where people don't often go.
So, rings at deck level where you can keep an eye on them, split pins aloft where people don't often go.
pdrh
New Member
split rings don't turn
cliff
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
split rings don't turn
[/ QUOTE ]Sorry?, run that one by me again! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
split rings don't turn
[/ QUOTE ]Sorry?, run that one by me again! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
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sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
G
Guest
Guest
Re: Split pins or rings? Don\'t turn ...
Of course there are two types ....
The all-over round job as in a key-ring - these should be kept well away from boats as the metal used corrodes fast.
The marine stainless rigging ring ... that has a small transverse bar to stop ring from "spinning" and also aids the start of fitting / removal.
As to use of ring or pin .... I agree with another ... Pins up top to ensure permanent fitting ... rings down lower where ropes / sheets etc. may catch pin ends ....
The trick of course is to use the correct size and orientation for the job ... if sheets are to left of fitting - pin end or ring to be to the right of the fitting etc. So that ropes / sheets etc. do not bend ring / catch pin ends etc. Too many boats you see this fundamental touch forgotten - then owner blames the pin / ring .... Tut Tut !!
Of course there are two types ....
The all-over round job as in a key-ring - these should be kept well away from boats as the metal used corrodes fast.
The marine stainless rigging ring ... that has a small transverse bar to stop ring from "spinning" and also aids the start of fitting / removal.
As to use of ring or pin .... I agree with another ... Pins up top to ensure permanent fitting ... rings down lower where ropes / sheets etc. may catch pin ends ....
The trick of course is to use the correct size and orientation for the job ... if sheets are to left of fitting - pin end or ring to be to the right of the fitting etc. So that ropes / sheets etc. do not bend ring / catch pin ends etc. Too many boats you see this fundamental touch forgotten - then owner blames the pin / ring .... Tut Tut !!
davidpbo
Well-Known Member
Rings for me on bits that are rigged and derigged at least annually and I can keep an eye on them, of the "marine" type Small Boat Champ so eloquently described.
Where can I buy them? Got some with rigging screws but I have found them difficult to obtain since.
Where can I buy them? Got some with rigging screws but I have found them difficult to obtain since.
G
Guest
Guest
My local chandlers in the marina I am with has them in the "packs" on the hook ....
Tip - if they are shiny - ignore them ..... if they are dull light grey - thats the ones to use ....
Tip - if they are shiny - ignore them ..... if they are dull light grey - thats the ones to use ....
aitchw
Well-Known Member
Pretty well every chandler I've ever dealt with carries them.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Whatever I put on I wrap a bit of tape around them to stop snagging by either sheets or bare feet. The finger ends I've torn on split pin tails. Pah
G
Guest
Guest
For rigging always use split pins. Done properly on old style open turnbuckles the ends do not catch anything. Gentle curves with ends at right angles back to the thread.
HOWEVER, for guard wires always use rings. My wife has a nasty scar from a slip getting on a huge boat that used pins on the top of the guard wire gate.
HOWEVER, for guard wires always use rings. My wife has a nasty scar from a slip getting on a huge boat that used pins on the top of the guard wire gate.
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Tip - if they are shiny - ignore them ..... if they are dull light grey - thats the ones to use ....
[/ QUOTE ] Explain please
Tip - if they are shiny - ignore them ..... if they are dull light grey - thats the ones to use ....
[/ QUOTE ] Explain please
G
Guest
Guest
Shiny ones are often chromed jobs that are great cosmetically for about a month - then start to fall apart.
Dull light grey are the plain stainless ones without polished finish ...
Check out a chandlers and you'll see what I mean !!
Dull light grey are the plain stainless ones without polished finish ...
Check out a chandlers and you'll see what I mean !!
aitchw
Well-Known Member
Wise precaution. It's kind of embarrassing when the shroud parts company with plate because the pin falls out (only happens once, that's for sure) having lost it's somewhat mangled ring.
Gin
Well-Known Member
In spite of correctly installing a sturdy ring on the lower shackle, holding my main sheet system to the traveller, away from passing/flogging sheets, nevertheless it failed recently.
On inspection it seems that an unidentified rope has probably flipped around the back of the track and stretched the ring into a 3/4 circle thus allowing it to fall out and release the lower mainsheet pulley- hence no mainsail control until sorted out.
Didn't want to use a split pin in case of injury, so introduced another ring with the same starting/preventer angle as referred to elsewhere and for good measure taped it too.
Must remember to check the tape from time to time
On inspection it seems that an unidentified rope has probably flipped around the back of the track and stretched the ring into a 3/4 circle thus allowing it to fall out and release the lower mainsheet pulley- hence no mainsail control until sorted out.
Didn't want to use a split pin in case of injury, so introduced another ring with the same starting/preventer angle as referred to elsewhere and for good measure taped it too.
Must remember to check the tape from time to time
VicS
Well-Known Member
Very surprised that any decent chander would sell chromium plated ones. Plated keyrings from hardware stores etc obviously. A case of being sure of what you are buying obviously.
You can get the simple split rings that are like a key ring and those that you describe as "having a transverse bar" . Do you have any idea what the latter are correctly called?
You can get the simple split rings that are like a key ring and those that you describe as "having a transverse bar" . Do you have any idea what the latter are correctly called?
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
In spite of correctly installing a sturdy ring ............ it failed recently.
.... it seems that an unidentified rope has .... stretched the ring into a 3/4 circle
[/ QUOTE ]
That is the problem with rings! They are useful tho' for things that have to be periodically undone as they can be removed and refitted without tools (usually) They can also be reused many times. Split pins on the other hand need tools to fit and remove. They might be reuseable once or twice but really should not be.
Although the normal engineering practice is for split pins to just have their legs played apart, in situations where that may be hazardous or likely to be snagged they should be bent right back around the component they are securing and trimmed so that the ends of the legs just reaches the head. That way the sharp ends can be tucked in snuggly out of harms way. That does make them almost totally un-reusable.
In spite of correctly installing a sturdy ring ............ it failed recently.
.... it seems that an unidentified rope has .... stretched the ring into a 3/4 circle
[/ QUOTE ]
That is the problem with rings! They are useful tho' for things that have to be periodically undone as they can be removed and refitted without tools (usually) They can also be reused many times. Split pins on the other hand need tools to fit and remove. They might be reuseable once or twice but really should not be.
Although the normal engineering practice is for split pins to just have their legs played apart, in situations where that may be hazardous or likely to be snagged they should be bent right back around the component they are securing and trimmed so that the ends of the legs just reaches the head. That way the sharp ends can be tucked in snuggly out of harms way. That does make them almost totally un-reusable.
wagenaar
Well-Known Member
Rings!! I lost my mast once and had a terrible time to undo the splitpin in the furler attachment. It was hard to reach and I needed a plyer to undo it. Afterwards I replaced every splitpin with a ring.
