Roach1948
Well-Known Member
Tillergirl - your absolutely right.
I had a nagging feeling about its ugliness. I will do it the hard and beautiful way!
I had a nagging feeling about its ugliness. I will do it the hard and beautiful way!
Spinnaker Pole uphaul/downhaul attchements (again)
- Thread starter Roach1948
- Start date
Simon_and_Tanja
Well-Known Member
Make like a dinghy - Handcraft some wooden ramps to epoxy/screw either side of the mid-point of your 8' pole. And splice together the ends of your uphaul/downhaul to make a continuous line with a 6" diameter eye. The pole is simply pushed through the eye with the ramps top and bottom before turning through 90 degrees to place ramps side and side locking position within the eye. Reverse procedure to remove pole! Ramp profile should be like so .... http://marinestore.co.uk/Merchant2/merch...spinnaker-parts
We have a 2" diameter pole on our Stella complete with bridle. It bends like buggery.
We have a 2" diameter pole on our Stella complete with bridle. It bends like buggery.
pyrojames
Well-Known Member
It's surprising how far good timber will bend before it breaks. I just used my boom as a gantry to lift my mast over the boat (not step!) and had a 6 inch bend in my 25 foot boom, a bit scary but quite sound.
Roach1948
Well-Known Member
I really like this simple but ingenious idea - but now you say you get bendyness on your Stella's pole, and Roach's rig is not much smaller, I am wondering whether the bridle is the best long term solution.
Simon_and_Tanja
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify - Our Stella's pole is rigged with a bridle and bends anyway! Like a banana!
I have used the solution with ramps on other boats. It makes it an absolute breeze to rig the pole.
Not convinced the diffence in loading between a bridle and a centrally mounted downhaul is worth worrying about. Once you get to a certain amount of compression the pole will bend regardless.
Not sure what wood our pole is made of. Also not really sure I should be worried about the bending but I guess once you are used to seeing dead straight alloy poles it is a little disconcerting. You don't see archers complaining that their wood bends.
I have used the solution with ramps on other boats. It makes it an absolute breeze to rig the pole.
Not convinced the diffence in loading between a bridle and a centrally mounted downhaul is worth worrying about. Once you get to a certain amount of compression the pole will bend regardless.
Not sure what wood our pole is made of. Also not really sure I should be worried about the bending but I guess once you are used to seeing dead straight alloy poles it is a little disconcerting. You don't see archers complaining that their wood bends.
Roach1948
Well-Known Member
It's a Sitka Spruce pole. I love your solution and have decided that is what I will go for. Beatifully simple and will look traditional!
Can I ask whether you lead the downhual through a block back to the cockpit or what you do with it if not, as this will make a difference on "placing" the spliced loop.
Can I ask whether you lead the downhual through a block back to the cockpit or what you do with it if not, as this will make a difference on "placing" the spliced loop.
PeteCooper
Well-Known Member
Alloy poles bend a worrying amount as well.
Simon_and_Tanja
Well-Known Member
Two small blocks, side by side at base of mast - the ones I have experienced used turning block/cam-cleat combos. Continuous line comes down the front of the mast through one of these blocks, then in a good sized loop around the back of the mast and the up through the other block. The height of the pole is adjusted by someone at the rear of the mast. Simply uncleat both blocks, pull one line in whilst letting other line out and secure the cams. You could of course make a much bigger loop and take this back to the cockpit but you surely need to get up on deck to get your spinnaker aloft?
You will need a cleat on the mast to store the (coiled) bight of the line when the pole is not in use.
You will need a cleat on the mast to store the (coiled) bight of the line when the pole is not in use.
Roach1948
Well-Known Member
I have been giving quite a lot of thought to the rigging of the spinnaker as I would like, occasionally, to fly it single-handed.
The yacht is small (22') so was thinking I might get away with launching the spinnaker behind the mainsail on the side-deck using a turtle (in this case an old slotted wine box) - I can just about reach under the boom from the cockpit, and then with a spinny halyard led back to the cockpit, launching behind the main and trim pole from the cockpit. Maybe this all a bit too ambitious - but I think it will add some spice to my sailing!
The yacht is small (22') so was thinking I might get away with launching the spinnaker behind the mainsail on the side-deck using a turtle (in this case an old slotted wine box) - I can just about reach under the boom from the cockpit, and then with a spinny halyard led back to the cockpit, launching behind the main and trim pole from the cockpit. Maybe this all a bit too ambitious - but I think it will add some spice to my sailing!
SwedishLass
Well-Known Member
I use the spinnaker single handed on light days! Always get confused on which is sheet and guy but as I don't usually have to tell anyone else, windward and leeward string should suffice. I ain't saying it's text book but it works for me.
The spinnaker pole is wood and up/down hauls are snap shackled to centre via a loop which is held in place by hoops each side. Similar to the idea of using wedges.
For me the key to using the spinnaker is the autohelm. Course is set downwind on a very broad reach to prevent oopsy gybe. I set the sheets / guy by leading outside of stays and back to bucket (Turtle) on the lee side. Halyard to the head of the sail. Make off the sheet on the lee side to the approx length it will be when set (Marked with pen previously). Set the pole in place to windward, piston on top, with the sheet clipped in and swing well forward. Back to cockpit, furl genoa then hoist like crazy on halyard. Needless to say I would prefer to have a snuffer but they weren't around in the 60's.
The sail is currently hiding behind main, haul on the windward string and the sail usually sets. Dumping it is the reverse but I normally have to use the boathook to grab the leeward sheet, ease the windward string until the sail hides behind the main pull the sheet and ease the halyard at the same time to achieve a cockpit full of sail, stuff into bucket if sufficiently well organised.
The spinnaker pole is wood and up/down hauls are snap shackled to centre via a loop which is held in place by hoops each side. Similar to the idea of using wedges.
For me the key to using the spinnaker is the autohelm. Course is set downwind on a very broad reach to prevent oopsy gybe. I set the sheets / guy by leading outside of stays and back to bucket (Turtle) on the lee side. Halyard to the head of the sail. Make off the sheet on the lee side to the approx length it will be when set (Marked with pen previously). Set the pole in place to windward, piston on top, with the sheet clipped in and swing well forward. Back to cockpit, furl genoa then hoist like crazy on halyard. Needless to say I would prefer to have a snuffer but they weren't around in the 60's.
The sail is currently hiding behind main, haul on the windward string and the sail usually sets. Dumping it is the reverse but I normally have to use the boathook to grab the leeward sheet, ease the windward string until the sail hides behind the main pull the sheet and ease the halyard at the same time to achieve a cockpit full of sail, stuff into bucket if sufficiently well organised.
Roach1948
Well-Known Member
Thanks Grahame for the pre-marking the sheets/guy tip, I will rig everything so that I can take it back to the cockpit. I want to give this single-handed spinnaker thing a go!