Spanner size for 1 1/2 inch seacock

Chris_Robb

Chris_Robb

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I need to take 2 large adjustable spanners to Greece with me to change one of my cockpit seacocks.

Does anyone know the size required. Could a pair of Stilsons with a 70mm jaw be used or are adjustables better.

The boat yard has quoted €300 to do the job!

What is the correct sealant to bed them on.
 
Wikipedia reckons 57mm, which looks plausible.

Stilsons would work provided you have the space for the larger head. I've also used a very large pair of waterpump pliers. But adjustable spanner is probably better.

Talking about sealant suggests you're changing the skin fitting too. How are you going to hold that in position while you do up the nut? Some have a little lug that fits into a notch in the hull (so make sure you have a file or something to make that notch) while others have internal lugs in the bore. I assume there's a special tool for this, but I've always used an old socket with notches cut in it to take the lugs.

You may well need to cut the old skin fitting out. The best way I've found is a hole-saw the same size as the OD of the skin fitting tube. This is applied from the outside and neatly separates the flange from the tube. Others talk about using a small angle-grinder to achieve the same thing. The first one I did, I used a hacksaw blade up through the hole to cut outwards through the tube, then a hammer and cold chisel to fold it inwards and disengage from the nut. It worked, but it wasn't easy, and it needed space inside to swing the hammer.

I've always used Sikaflex 291 for seacocks, though there are other viable options.

Pete
 
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You might find it easier to remove the whole assembly by grinding off the outside flange of the through hull. Buy a DZR ball valve, tail and though hull here so you know you have the right thing and you will also know the spanner size for assembling it. No "correct" sealant - the choice is usually either polyurethane such as Sikaflex or CT1 or polysulphide such as Boatlife or Arbromast - I prefer the latter as it is not an adhesive.

Its a horrible job to do, and the bits will be around £80 or 100 euros if you replace the whole lot so 300 to do the job if they use a DZR (not plain brass) valve is not bad.
 
Tranona said:
You might find it easier to remove the whole assembly by grinding off the outside flange of the through hull. Buy a DZR ball valve, tail and though hull here so you know you have the right thing and you will also know the spanner size for assembling it. No "correct" sealant - the choice is usually either polyurethane such as Sikaflex or CT1 or polysulphide such as Boatlife or Arbromast - I prefer the latter as it is not an adhesive.

Its a horrible job to do, and the bits will be around £80 or 100 euros if you replace the whole lot so 300 to do the job if they use a DZR (not plain brass) valve is not bad.
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PRV and Tranona - thanks for fast info!

I was hoping to get away with not changing the skin fitting, but as the are 20 years old I have a spare in case. ASAP have supplied the proper DZR items, where as the Greek boat yard had ones I would not want to fit! The current one has just stuck shut and cannot be moved - though it closed very easily at the time.

What I can do is to take off the old ball valve and then inspect the skin fitting and make sure its not pink. I already scrape every skin fitting on the outside every year - so I know the external bit is ok.

The €300 was for the work only as I have the parts already. If I am doing the work myself, I will not have access to grinders so it would have to come off conventionally. I have not replaced skin fittings before - but have put in new ones (fridge keel cooler) which was simple. I am always nervous doing jobs when I have a short deadline after lifting the boat to catch a plane - should I perhaps leave it to the yard?
 
vyv_cox said:
Chris,

Will this be at Partheni? I have a large adjustable spanner on board, jaws easily big enough to fit provided it will go in the space. We will probably be back in Leros by October.

Vyv
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Hi Vyv - we haul out end September, so I think I will miss you. Just a short 2 week cruise this time with a few days of maintenance at the end - 'er in doors doesn't want to leave the dog, grand children, garden etc etc for too long! Still - very lucky she comes at all! Boat now in Pathene - who seem very competent.

Large adjustable should perhaps be added to tools on board anyway.

Hoping that the Melteme does not rip through as it did last year.
 
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LadyInBed said:
As a first pass, I would remove the connecting pipe, drop some oil down onto the top of the ball valve and apply some heat around the ball valve.
That might free the valve.
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Good idea - but no gas burner thingy - but could buy one out there. Cocks moved easily till we shut them to remove the tank - it wouldn't open afterwards - seems part of the obvious steps to do first before the more drastic.

Its so much easier to do DIY in England than overseas when you have small windows of opportunity to complete the jobs.

Thanks
 
Try to free it before you replace it. Probably a ring of deposits on the ball which you may well be able to clear when it is out of the water. Pour penetrating oil on the inside first and spray with WD 40 from outside. You can put a lot of pressure on the lever with an extension tube to get it moving and once it moves, lots of exercise (of the valve!) should keep it free. obviously best to do this out of the water as if it does not work you have the option of changing it.
 
Tranona said:
Try to free it before you replace it. Probably a ring of deposits on the ball which you may well be able to clear when it is out of the water. Pour penetrating oil on the inside first and spray with WD 40 from outside. You can put a lot of pressure on the lever with an extension tube to get it moving and once it moves, lots of exercise (of the valve!) should keep it free. obviously best to do this out of the water as if it does not work you have the option of changing it.
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I was worried about the pressure I was apply on them in the water - where of course I could not take the pipe off! Feel much happier about doing that on dry land.
 
Tranona;489239 if they use a DZR (not plain brass) valve is not bad.[/QUOTE said:
I'd have thought the chances of a Greek yard supplying DZR about the same as the local taverna paying off the national debt. It's all either plain brass or stainless out there (or here, at the mo').
If the OP wishes to cut out the old fittings but doesn't have access to grinder, a decent holesaw can do the job: simply bang in a conical wooden plug (cut for length to be more-or-less flush if necessary, and centre the holesaw on this. Once the outer flange is removed, the whole lot should easily bash inwards.
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macd said:
If the OP wishes to cut out the old fittings but doesn't have access to grinder, a decent holesaw can do the job: simply bang in a conical wooden plug (cut for length to be more-or-less flush if necessary, and centre the holesaw on this. Once the outer flange is removed, the whole lot should easily bash inwards.
Click to expand...

Yep, this is my preferred method. Removed all of Ariam's pinky old skin fittings that way.

Pete
 
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