Spade anchors

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richardh10

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Ok, so I decided to sell my children and buy a spade anchor. Those of you that have one will know that they can come apart for easy stowage. The question I have is that they are supplied with a a threaded bolt with a washer and a split pin, but no nut. Is this right or are you supposed to supply your own nut? Seems a bit Heath Robinson for something that cost the best part of 800 quid
 
To be honest, I can just supply it myself, but I’m just wondering what the reason is. There is a boat along the pontoon with the same anchor, and again no nut. I mentioned it to him, and he said it had been supplied like that - as mine has. But if there is not supposed to be a nut, then why is the bolt threaded? I intend to put a nut on, but could this cause other problems?
 
I have a spade anchor. I ditched the set screw which came with mine and fitted a decent plain shank bolt with nut and split pin. I complained about it but they were not interested. You may also find that the galvanising is shit. I complained about this as well but they were not interested either. It seems to be a well known problem. Its difficult to re galvanise because of the hollow sections and lead filling. Its a good anchor but has some poor quality design and manufacturing features and not really worth the high price.

One disadvantage of this anchor is that it penetrates weed well. This means that it will sometimes hold pretty well in a bed of kelp until !!! The anchor invariably comes aboard with a forest of weed attached. So much so that I had to devise a special hook to clean it. Much preferred the behaviour of my old Griff CQR which didn't particularly like weed so when it held you knew it was in something solid.
 
I have a steel and alloy model both the same size. Both came with a nyloc nut and split pin. If you continuously remove the shank to store somewhere other than the bow roller, which is possible for the smaller sizes but will require a weight lifter for the larger models, the nyloc nut wears and no longer grips.

Basically if you use the split pin, which will also lose its strength if you repeatedly open it, that will secure an ordinary nut. We carry spare split pins and spare nuts.

If you have bought the alloy model it should come with nylon washers (and maybe a nylon sleeve?) to reduce the potential of corrosion between bolt and steel.

It would do future buyers a favour if you point out the omission to whoever you bought from.

Once you have used the Spade a few times the cost will pale into insignificance vs the confidence of security the anchor will instil.

Sleep well.

Jonathan
 
A bit of drift but Just wondered if anyone has managed to get one of these re galvanised. If so what method was used.
 
Talulah said:
Mine has a nut. The split pin was added to the design after someone experienced the nut undoing itself whilst at anchor.
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The original design had just a nyloc nut. There was an unfortunate case where an owner using a Spade anchor experienced the shank separating from the fluke and their boat was severely damaged (in fact I think it was written off). Boats drag very quickly with no anchor at all.

Spade subsequently changed the design of the bolt to include a split pin as well as the nyloc nut, although the cause of the shank separating from the fluke was never conclusively determined. If you have an older Spade without the provision for the split pin, I understand Spade will send out the new design of bolt drilled for the split pin at no charge.

The nyloc nut should have been included. I am sure Spade would send one out for you, but there is nothing special about the nyloc nut. In fact, they are designed to be replaced.
 
KAM said:
A bit of drift but Just wondered if anyone has managed to get one of these re galvanised. If so what method was used.
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I have never met anyone that has done this, although in theory it is possible if you melt out the lead and then repour it back in after the galvanising.

Because of the problems regalvanising, Spade have offered to replace at no charge any anchor that needed regalvanising (or had any other problems). In practice it seems the delivery costs are significant, but it is still a wonderful guarantee that has not been matched by any other anchor manufacturer.

It is unclear if this guarantee applies worldwide or just to the USA, but it may be worth making some enquiries.

Make sure you dont end up like this owner, with no lead weight in their Spade.

wvifOHG.jpg
 
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Have they improved their galvanising process. It doesn't seem worth having it shipped back to Tunisia for a repeat poor galvanising job. I have had CQR, Bruce, delta and Brittany anchors over the last 30 years and none have had such poor galvanising. It may be due to too many sharp edges and crevices as well as poor processing.
 
KAM said:
A bit of drift but Just wondered if anyone has managed to get one of these re galvanised. If so what method was used.
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Yes, had the lead melted out and retained, cleaned then regalved and poured the lead back in. Reasonable cost compared to buying a new one but.....

noelex said:
...
Because of the problems regalvanising, Spade have offered to replace at no charge any anchor that needed regalvanising (or had any other problems). In practice it seems the delivery costs are significant, but it is still a wonderful guarantee that has not been matched by any other anchor manufacturer.
...
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didnt know about this offer. I enquired 18 months or so ago of the agents in Jersey about the high zinc paint the US agency were using, they didnt mention the offer.

My Spade had been used daily for 6-8 months / year over 5 years in mostly sandy bottoms. Over the winter, when not in use, it started to look distinctly rusty in patches which led to the regalv decision.
 
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If you use your anchor frequently it is inevitable that the gal will wear off - it does not last on chain - why would you expect it to last on an anchor. If you visit most marinas, and I don't know why but particularly in the Med, you will see anchors (from many origins) that are painted - with rust showing through (the gal has gone and as a interim - they are painted),

Paint does not last long - it has no abrasion resistance and its almost impossible to prepare a used fluke perfectly - some corrosion will remain and few paints lack porosity.

Many when they have their chain regalvanised will have their anchor re-galvanised at the same time - its cost effective. Strangely most who have their chain regalvanised almost without exception suggest the regalvanised chain is 'better' (better galvanising) that the original. Higher tensile steels take galvanising less well than mild steel - so the gal on the shanks of newer anchors tends not to last as well as the gal on the fluke (balanced as the fluke takes most wear).

Don't worry about regalvanising HT steels (shank) fearing it will cause loss of strength - the strength will remain as you bought the anchor (or thereabouts).

Less and less anchors have lead in the toe, Spade and Manson's plough come to mind, most now are weighted with cast steel (not lead). It is not difficult to melt the lead out, blow torch works well (weight before and after - scrap lead, roofing lead, is cheap if you lose some - and its easy to re-cast).

If you want to regal an anchor - the cheapest/best way is to consolidate with others (start a thread) as galvanisers really don't like small lots.

Jonathan
 
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