Southerly 115 MK 1 Skeg Cracks

[luckybeanz]

Hi I have recently taken on a Southerly 115 MK1 with some issues and am busy learning as I go fixing them. There were some small cracks in the skeg which sits under the prop and connects into the rudder so I sanded these back to discover the small cracks led to gaping crevasses. I can't tell if this was a repair or shoddy build, but I would like to take steps to fix it. I was hoping some fiber reinforcing would do the trick after filling in the holes, though I am concerned as to how structurally important this is?

The initial cracks.

Sanding Reviled

 

[Tranona]

This is perhaps not the best place to post this sort of query - you will get better response on the PBO forum.

 

[jwilson]

Re: Southerly 115 MK 1 Skeg Cracks - repair question

The skeg is structural. I have seen several 115s out of the water and from memory none looked like your photos. Your photo looks like part is wooden - certainly don't remember any timber in the structure.

Again from memory the original fitting was a fabricated metal "arm" bolted around the end of the GRP keel and extending out to form the rudder lower bearing.

 

[john_morris_uk]

I’ve moved this to PBO

 

[Tranona]

Re: Southerly 115 MK 1 Skeg Cracks - repair question

The skeg is structural. I have seen several 115s out of the water and from memory none looked like your photos. Your photo looks like part is wooden - certainly don't remember any timber in the structure.

Again from memory the original fitting was a fabricated metal "arm" bolted around the end of the GRP keel and extending out to form the rudder lower bearing.

It seems to vary. I had a look at google images before replying. The one on your site does indeed seem to have metal plates, but that may be reinforcement with GRP inside. Others do seem to have a GRP moulding but it is difficult to tell when it is gooped with AF.

Probably best to call Northshore as they still do repairs and servicing of southerlies with the same people that built the boats.

My gut feeling is to grind out the cracks in the normal way them repair with epoxy/glass and bolt through a steel plate either side. Important thing is to keep the heel fitting for the rudder in the right place. However some expert advice from somebody who knows the original construction would be best.

 

[Bathdave]

Re: Southerly 115 MK 1 Skeg Cracks - repair question

Hi

I saw your posting on the SOA site

I have a S115 series 3

In my interpretation

- this strut is structural - when the boat is dried out it can bear all the load of the rear of the boat, depending on the exact profile of the bottom - certainly my boat has rested on this strut a number of times

- Given the rudder is fixed to it, it would be a catastrophic failure that would lead to rudder loss were it to fail

- I think on my boat the strut is metal

I find the SOA site full of knowledgeable and helpful people and I would expect you would get done useful responses there


Also the suggestion on this forum to call the north shore yard is a good one...though they do be build Southerlies there anymore they have the drawings and plans of all the boats built and many of the staff working there used to build them ..and I have found them helpful and willing to give free advice and information over the phone.

 

[luckybeanz]

Re: Southerly 115 MK 1 Skeg Cracks - repair question

Thanks all, I got a handy response from John at northshore:

Thanks for the photos, the skeg is purely to support the lower part of the rudder and provide a pivot within

The stainless steel bracket, the skeg is made of GRP and whilst part of the hull it is separated from the main

Part of the skeg with laminate so even with the voids water is unable to enter the vessel through the skeg.



Its not serious what I see and will need the voids filling with slow cure resin, once this has been achieved then

Re laminate over the skeg incorporating the crack at the fwd end of the skeg, overcoat this with a suitable epoxy

Coating and apply antifouling.


This is what I've done, though I think over winter of like to remove the metal plate and sand the whole thing back before wrapping fiber around it and beefing it up. Not a big task, but since I won't be taking the ground in Greece over the next few months, one that can wait for winter.