Cruise Reports South of France/Italy Aug/Sep 2018

Re: Request for Advice

Do tell, is that for real?
By and large, two stars restaurants in F are comparable to ordinary one star restaurants anywhere else, and these folks dare charging much more than the most expensive course prepared by Bottura of Francescana's fame, ranked #1 among the World's 50 Best Restaurants?!?
Even assuming to have more money than sense, I'd rather drive all the way to Modena than have dinner there, just as a matter of principle!

+1 bloody ridiculous - saw them coming!
 
No room at the Inn

So my first question would be where did you find such calm water? I've seen nothing really like this in my travels thus far? I'm hoping this is a sign of things to come?

However,....

I wasn't prepared for the lack of marina space around the Cannes area. The jolly boat show really disrupts things eh? The closest I can get during early September appears to be St Raphael to the west and Beaulieu to the east and even then they seem reluctant to take bookings more than the day ahead... I've managed to get a (sort of) reservation for St Raphael Santa Lucia for 1-5 Sep and then Beaulieu from 5-10 Sep. I guess we can take day trips to Agay and Antheor and possibly the Lerins from St Raphael and backtrack to Antibes from Beaulieu..?.

Is it a practical proposition to plan some nights on the anchor around the Lerins? From what I've seen thus far it is pretty lumpy and certainly after this last Mistral it is pretty windy as well..

Lastly; any ideas on what to expect in Italy.. We're planning to start in San Remo and end in Varazze but have no real plans other than that. Does anyone know if customs clearance will be an issue in San Remo?

Sorry for all the questions. Any/all ideas appreciated..

Many thanks

James.
 
Hi James

We have been here for over 5 weeks and the weather has been calm for most of the time. Many anchorages are affected by wash even from boats passing quite a way out.

From our home port of Saint Raphael, Agay and Antheor are very short trips and Lerins easily done as a day trip.

A couple of pics from Agay today

vjXNj92.jpg


zAlskoU.jpg
 
They are reluctant to take long range bookings because folks don,t turn up .
Just arrive about 3 pm ish there’s a few empty places near us 15 M .

Wind is always less this side of the Esterel mountains and the bay of Cannes + surround seems to be ok wave height wise .
Today the waves were caused by boat wakes .
You can always find a sheltered place around the Lerins .
Bay of St Trop is notorious for strong winds it whistles down / funnels down the bay .
Mistral ( Sat gone ?) is a well as on top .

Coast E of Menton ie Italy is pretty dull ,there’s no real headlands to shelter or bays to moor
The Alps tip into the Med Beaulieu / Monaco so those mountains make clouds and wind .
It can be windy around Monaco and wavey but pancake flat near Cannes 20 mikes away .
It’s cheap to live on shore but strangely the marina prices are more than Cote d Azur .

We plan to be in Antheor tomorrow btw Mark .
 
Great news you got into Beaulieu. I think you will love it. I wouldn’t be put off by the lack of booking a berth ahead. Phone on the day or the day before and see what opens up.

San Remo is great. The markets are wonderful and the change in food brilliant. We have had cracking meals there, but as Porto points out the marina is more expensive than the CdA.

We paid €70 a night for a 12 m boat last year. St Tropez was €60. Madness.

Don’t believe Porto and his window of weather doom. The locals claim that a Beaulieu has a micro climate to to the hills and is warmer in winter and cooler in summer because of it.

Here is a link to the weather at Beaulieu
http://www.weatherlink.com/user/portdebeaulieu/

That 10kt gust was a killer today!
 
Hi All,

Thanks again for the help and advice. I've managed to get most of the plan booked which is good..

So far we're either confirmed or booked as follows:-

1 Sep. St Raphael Santa Lucia.
2-4 Sep. Port Camille Rayon.
5-10 Sep. Beaulieu.
11-14 Sep. Undecided but likely Menton.
15-16 Sep. San Remo.
17 Sep. Undecided but somewhere half way to Varazze.
18 Sep. Varazze...

We had an unexpectedly really nice day in Pompelonne Beach yesterday. Our guests wanted to meet friends and family who were passing through on a cruise ship and it was with some trepidation that I agreed to meet them all at a beach club. Expecting throngs of boats and nowhere to anchor I was pleasantly surprised to find a reasonable empty anchorage and moorings available! Beautiful clear and warm water and a nice meal (albeit at a price).

Cheers

James.

Pompelonne Beach.jpg
 
Hi All,

It was with some emotion that we bade farewell to out home of the last three and a half weeks. Port Grimaud was great and our little berth in the south port was quiet and calm with a great bunch of restaurants and cafes just there and the staff at SMN were helpful whenever an issue came up. We had a nice time there and it was a great introduction to the boat and to the area.

But time to move on and move on we have. We spent the afternoon in the Rade DÁgay on a mooring which was very pleasant; swimming and enjoying the beautiful scenery. With some pretty ominous storm clouds over the hills to the north we decided to make for our berth in Santa Lucia at around 4pm. Just as well as the storms hit around 6pm and I was pleased to be secured in the berth to enjoy the show.

Our plans tomorrow are to head to Port Camille where we've been able to book a berth for 5 nights. We'll look to take day trips to the Lerins and other points of interest in the area. Should be fun.

Cheers,

James.

Rade Agay.jpg

Strom in Santa Lucia.jpg
 
Hi All,

My apologies for not posting for a few days but things have been quite busy. Anyway...

After leaving Santa Lucia we headed east past Agay and into the calanque dánthur for a swim on our way up to Port Camille. What an incredible little bay with once again impossibly clear water in 5m or so and a beautiful viaduct as a backdrop. The way the light was hitting the cliffs behind made the scene look surreal and we were able to capture some really nice photos.

After enjoying the afternoon we up'd anchor and completed the next 10 or so miles at a sedate tourist speed arriving in Port Camille Rayon at around 6pm. The port was nice but our berth was on the far side making for a decent walk to town and restaurants. The nightly rate was ~95 euros. The next day we were all a bit weary so decided to stay in the berth and conduct some sight seeing via train. An afternoon in Cannes scratched that itch and the next day it was out to the Lerins for another fantastic day of swimming and lolling about. I know I keep harping on about the water but I am struggling to find the words to describe how clear it is. The anchorage in the Lerins was about 3m deep with a sandy bottom and the impression of being in a swimming pool was overwhelming.

So that brings us to today where we left Port Camille heading for Beaulieu. We stopped at a bay on the end of Cape Antibes colloquially known as billionaires bay I believe. The properties were pretty amazing with private access ways to the beach and what looked like ornate fountains up on the cliff tops.. I hate to think who owns them but they were impressive. The water was once again clear but quite a bit deeper and rockier making for a different swimming experience. There was a bit of a ground swell entering the bay so we didn't stay too long. We then proceeded east along the coast past Antibes, the pyramid apartment buildings, Nice, Ville Franche finally arriving into Beaulieu. Again a jaw droppingly beautiful place under the imposing escapement with villas etc perched on the cliff tops. We're here for 4 nights and I think we're going to enjoy exploring around the area.

Photos will have to wait as I'm currently being frustrated with a SIM change and no internet...

Cheers,

James.

P.S. Bumped into forum member Shane this afternoon who imparted a wealth of local knowledge which will make our stay here all the more enjoyable. Shane has also been very helpful with finding technical advice for the couple of issues Laser is carrying. Thanks Shane.
 
Good to hear the cruise is going well, it's also nice to catch up with forum members, you can't beat local advice.
The Med water clarity is really something to behold.
 
Hello again from the sunny South of France.

We had a mostly wonderful time in Beaulieu and the consensus is that it is the pick of the ports thus far. A truly beautiful place with a relaxed and easy atmosphere. Everything a boatie could want is within easy reach albeit at a price.

The mostly part was due to a couple of technical issues we have been chasing down. The first was a leaky shower which required the expert application of some sealant at vast expense and the second is a leaky Princess side window (eye roll). I would love to be in a room alone with the person who signed off on that design. A truly apocalyptic piece of engineering.

Anyway, turns out the drain hose is blocked at one or multiple locations along its completely inaccessible 6m run. Accordingly the drain box fills up with water that has nowhere to go except into the master head. Joy. After spending many (many) hundred euro on the problem without resolution (grr) I elected the Kiwi fix and sealed the window with high speed aluminium tape. I'm dreading to see how it will hold up after 6 weeks on the open ocean during the shipping...

However, we managed some really nice days cruising around Baie de St Laurent, Cap Ferrat and VilleFranche. The most stunning scenery, water and general ambiance. I'm not going to repeat myself about the water but wow; a real highlight. During a much needed shore day we headed up to the historic medieval village of Eze. Although spectacular I felt like a bit of a rat in a maze being slowly but surely led to my ultimate demise at the top where for the typically touristy price of 6 euros each (!) you were permitted to see the view. Of course we weren't going to fall for that so took it as a challenge to find the Kiwi cut price view (ie. free). Despite their best efforts we were able to find just the place at the back of the cemetery. Funnily enough others had been there before us and cunningly made a camera sized hole in the wire fence...

Feeling duly pleased we made the foolish decision to walk down to Eze sur Mer via Nietzsche staircase. I'm sure Mr Nietzsche would have been laughing at us as we sweated our way down 1200 vertical feet of sheer hell. My advice. Call the Ubur.

We're now sitting in a rather uncomfortable berth in Menton Vieux Port. We're right on the edge of the marina; in fact I'd say not in the marina at all and there is a small but noticeable surge. I'm so tired that I'm sure I will sleep regardless...

Villefranche.JPG
Villefranche

After the walk down from Eze.JPG
After the walk down from Eze

Discount View Eze.JPG
Discount view from Eze

Baie St Laurent.JPG
Baie St Laurent
 
We're now sitting in a rather uncomfortable berth in Menton Vieux Port. We're right on the edge of the marina; in fact I'd say not in the marina at all and there is a small but noticeable surge. I'm so tired that I'm sure I will sleep regardless...


My guess is that you are here;


Menton2.jpg

Spent a night there a few years ago on another forumite's boat, so I know what you mean about the swell!

Great thread - please keep it up. :encouragement:
 
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